Issues with new Kala uke - am I being too picky?

Hi,

I bought a Kala concert electro-acoustic (KA-CE), and I'm having a few issues with it. However, being new to the ukulele, I'm not sure what the correct course of action is, or even if I'm being too picky (being used to basses and guitars as I am). I'd really appreciate your opinions.

Issue one - the saddle has a gap below it where it sits in the bridge at the g string end. It doesn't at the other end. Is this normal? The saddle doesn't appear to be sitting at an angle.

Issue two - all fretted notes are sharper than the open strings. I have quite a good ear so it drives me a little nuts, and an electric tuner confirms it is definitely the case. Fretting softly slightly improves the problem but does not eliminate it. All areas of the fretboard are sharp - it doesn't get worse approaching the bridge or nut. However, it is noticeably worse on the g string than the others.

My questions about the intonation issue are:
- Am I being too picky; are minor (ish) intonation issues expected on a uke that's priced at the lower end of the mid range? I understand intonation can never be perfect, especially given its neck scale, but I don't know what is 'acceptable' for the ukelele versus other string instruments I've played.
- I think I only have seven days to return the uke to the shop if there is an issue. Should I try changing the strings to see if that fixes the intonation (because I don't want to be annoying or waste the shop's time), or just take the uke back to the shop this weekend before time runs out to see what they say?
- If the shop staff say set-up work is needed, would this be their responsibility, or would it be reasonable for them to charge me for this (by the way, I'm in the UK, where standards of customer service are often not that great)?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.

1. The saddle should not have a gap. Good contact between the saddle and the bridge is important. Replacing a saddle is not a big deal, but it should not have come like that.

2. If you tell me that all of the frets are sharp, and it doesn't get sharper as you approach the bridge, it seems to suggest that your action is too high and you are actually fretting sharp by pushing the string to the fretboard. However, whether its the action, the nut height, or some other issue, most problems should be addrssed by a proper setup.

In my opinion, a new instrument should be received in playable condition, especially when purchased from a bricks-and-mortar shop. I would definitely bring it back to the shop and give them the option to make it right, for which they should not charge you (that doesn't mean they won't, but they shouldn't).

Return/exchange if you can and inspect the replacement more closely. Shouldn't have any trouble getting a new saddle from Kala if one is needed and it a simple setup will fix the problem. This is why folks here advise getting a uke like your's from dealers who are well known for customer service and doing a "proper setup."

The instrument needs a setup. This is unfortunately NORMAL with ukulele's. The saddle needs to be lowered (sanded down) and when you do this the gap issue will be resolved and hopefully the sharp intonation will be resolved too.

Up to you as to how you proceed but your case is perfectly normal.

Anthony

Pics on the saddle would help but I would say that a gap would be grounds to take it back. Exchange it and if the new one has the intonation problem have them fix it before you take possession. It's an easy adjustment for most shops and you will be happier with your uke.

Thanks

Thanks very much for your replies. I'll feel much more confident now when I go back to the shop at the weekend.

As well as the issues I mentioned, the first fret is sticking out of the side of the fretboard a little - and it's not just the part above the fretboard but the part that's sunk into it too. There's also glue/wood shavings stuck around it. I think this particular uke must have had some quality control issues!

Feel a bit silly that I didn't notice these problems when I bought it, but I'd never even held a uke before, and was very focused on overall tone because I was trying to decide between a tenor and a concert. I've never come across construction problems with the other stringed instruments I play and wasn't looking for them.

At least I know what to keep an eye out for next time. Thanks again for your advice, it's appreciated.

Pickup?

Just thought - as it's an electro acoustic uke, could there be a pickup under the saddle causing the gap?

Looking closely, it seems like there may be something under it further in from the edge, but hard to see and can't get decent photo.

Yes the peizo element is under the saddle but you shouldn't be able to see it at all. If your only issue with the instrument is the saddle then its an easy enough fix. Talk to the sellers.

Anthony

The shop ended up giving me a new uke with more acurate intonation. They were OK about it, but they didn't seem to know much about ukes. I'll definitely travel further afield to a specialist shop if I buy another.

Thanks to you all for your replies.

Hmmm...could it be that you get what you pay for?

Rick Turner said:

Hmmm...could it be that you get what you pay for?

Click to expand...

Perhaps, but it wasn't the cheapest uke for a beginner.

I wanted an electro-acoustic, and the Kala KA-CE was the most expensive one in the shops round here (Hertfordshire, England). This, combined with the positive reviews online for the KA-CE, led me to believe I was buying a half-decent instrument.

I play several other instruments, and they were all mid-range/low-mid-range in price also. I haven't had any construction issues with those, so expected the same standard from the uke.

totallyalmost,

I just stumbled across your original post. Sorry to hear you had issues with your new uke. I'm glad you were able to get it resolved with your dealer.
We expect every single Kala that makes it to our dealers to be of the highest quality, but on occasion one will have an issue. We (and our awesome dealer network) stand behind the instruments. (As you learned)

Thanks for closing the loop on this post, and letting everyone know you were able to get the issue resolved with your Kala dealer.
Have a great day!

I have to say, the better dealers run ALL the incoming instruments through their luthier shops to check setup and they'll either do what the instrument needs or reject it. You may pay a bit more for that, but in the end, it's a bargain. You may also find that subsequent regular service, setup, fret work, and repairs are cheaper where you buy the instrument.

Rick Turner said:

I have to say, the better dealers run ALL the incoming instruments through their luthier shops to check setup and they'll either do what the instrument needs or reject it. You may pay a bit more for that, but in the end, it's a bargain. You may also find that subsequent regular service, setup, fret work, and repairs are cheaper where you buy the instrument.

Click to expand...

+1 same on my mind here Rick, Exactly on my mind......

I bought a factory Kala recently.. the action can be frightfully high on these.
I sanded the saddle down heaps, and now it plays OK.