Bluestem Uke Building tips page

Added new descriptions of my binding ledge routing setup and binding thicknessing setup today. A bit more verbage about the K&K Big Island mounting, too.
As always, new stuff at the bottom...
 
Already published that idea over a year ago using black nylon as a barrel sleeve. They also need to be pinned or they will come loose....
The shafts have the end squared up a bit to act as a key when they are bonded with JB Weld into the brass barrels. They do not need to be pinned, I've used the method on several other instruments with steel strings with no problems. Black nylon barrels would be problematic, though.
 
July 7th, 2013 I have added a few more items to the page; neck blanks, surface planing, and spool clamp making.
 
July 18th, 2013 I have added a few more items to the page; alternative plate jointing and new top / back clamping jig.
 
Hi All,

I just made a dedicated binding ledge router using Stewart-MacDonald's $15 replacement "tool bar" for their deluxe router base. I think you'll like it if you have need for such a thing. I always use the same binding ledge, so this frees up my "good" router base for all the other stuff I use it for. See it under the "Routing binding ledge" entry.

This same base would make a really nice dedicated inlay router, too.
 
Still more stuff...

Here's a run down of what's available on the page:
Top and Back Edge Jointing Jig
Top and Back Clamping Jig
Thickness Planing
Ukulele Nut & Bridge String Spacing Guide
Ukulele Nut Slotting Guide
Radius Dish Construction
Converting Grover Ukulele Tuners For Slot Head Use
Full Size Grover Sta-tites
Body End Wedge
Easy Kerfed Lining
Adding a K&K Big Island Transducer
Almost ready to close up the body...
Routing Binding Ledges
Stewart MacDonald Binding Router Base (kinda...)
Binding Thicknessing
Spool Clamp
General Planing Tasks
Uke Neck Blanks
Preparing Headstock Overlay
Fret Board Slotting
Radiusing Fretboard
Heel Cap Inlay
Drilling tuner holes
Plunge Routing Tuner Shaft Slots

Here's the link:
http://www.bluestemstrings.com/pageUke1.html
 
Hi All,
The last few shots of the construction process have been added; contouring the rear face of the bridge and gluing the bridge in place with on-off bridge clamps.

Next up will be final assembly and perhaps a demo tune for YouTube, although upcoming holidays will slow that down considerably.
 
Thanks Rudy. This is a great resource and I refer to it often. I'm looking forward to the tenor uke plans. A great Christmas present for forum members. Thanks
Miguel
 
Added a bunch of finish shots in anyone is interested. I'll be adding a YouTube demo in the near future, too. This one turned out really nicely with a lovely tone.

UkePic25.jpg
 
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That was beautifully done and presented Rudy. Perfectly logical and executed procedures. A lot of food for thought... Thanks.

One suggestion on the spindle sander for binding thicknessing. Perhaps a simple slotted metal guard screwed onto the fence on the upstream feed side would be a nice little safety feature. Thicknessing a finger could ruin a person's whole day. Just a thought. Great idea though and I'm gonna make me one.
 
That was beautifully done and presented Rudy. Perfectly logical and executed procedures. A lot of food for thought... Thanks.

One suggestion on the spindle sander for binding thicknessing. Perhaps a simple slotted metal guard screwed onto the fence on the upstream feed side would be a nice little safety feature. Thicknessing a finger could ruin a person's whole day. Just a thought. Great idea though and I'm gonna make me one.

Thanks for checking things out.

The "infeed side" is on the left (against spindle rotation) and the outfeed side is on the right. You could potentially get caught on the outfeed (right) side, so a guard could be a worthwhile addition. In practice I push bindings or headplates (even fretboards) far enough past the drum so I can grasp the end out past the fence or well away from the rotating drum. From that point on I pull the work through and I make it a top priority to ensure my hands never come anywhere near the drum.

It is also possible to grasp the work with pliers I necessary. In all forms of work, safety should be at the top of your work habits.
 
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