String change: Tried it and it worked

rem50

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You all know that changing strings can make a world of difference. Every time I changed strings I never heard much until today. I have a boat paddle tenor Kayak I got a couple months ago. It sounded just fine with worth strings on it. I have to say it came with them and they are my favorites so I left them on it. I just changed to T2's. WOW! Love the sound now. I bought Koolau gold too but I don't think I will ever want to trade from these T2's. Any one know how they compare to the T2's? I just wanted share that the string change does make a big difference when you find the right one for your uke! (open for info on the Koo'lau's)
 
You all know that changing strings can make a world of difference. Every time I changed strings I never heard much until today. I have a boat paddle tenor Kayak I got a couple months ago. It sounded just fine with worth strings on it. I have to say it came with them and they are my favorites so I left them on it. I just changed to T2's. WOW! Love the sound now. I bought Koolau gold too but I don't think I will ever want to trade from these T2's. Any one know how they compare to the T2's? I just wanted share that the string change does make a big difference when you find the right one for your uke! (open for info on the Koo'lau's)

I haven't tried the T2's but I do use both Ko'Olau Gold and Ko'Olau Alohi - I'm told that Alohi are the same material as the T2's but in different gages (and the slightly purplish hue of both would seem to confirm it). In my experience the Alohi are slightly less bright than Worth clears, and the Gold are even less bright than that (I use the Gold strings to tame the brightness of both of my mango ukes). So, if what you like about the T2's is the "edge" off the brightness then you should at least give the Gold strings a shot at some point as they are going the same direction but more so.

However, the Gold strings are also a bit more temperature sensitive than the Alohi (the Alohi are slightly temperature sensitive as compared to the Worth, for example). Basically with Gold strings I find that I have to "warm" the strings by two or three minutes of rubbing my hands up and down them, then tune, then I'm good to play for at least a full set unless outdoors in very rapidly changing temperatures. If I tune without pre-warming the strings then the uke will have gone sharp after playing for a few minutes. It's especially noticeable on the soprano, but is present even on the tenor.

The Alohi are the same way except they don't go anywhere near as far sharp as they warm up.

John
 
Have the Golds on my Webber baritone. They are really dull sounding. I liked the T'2s on it and have a setof J68's for th bari. Will try those on my martin bari. Also have a set of Dirks new heavy guage strings tuned to A (braritone) coming. I've got Worth brown 1&2 with Hilo wounds 3&4 on the Martin now. Really a nice sound.

I've found Southcoast wounds the best for my tenors so far.
 
I take it you playing low "G"?
Have the Golds on my Webber baritone. They are really dull sounding. I liked the T'2s on it and have a setof J68's for th bari. Will try those on my martin bari. Also have a set of Dirks new heavy guage strings tuned to A (braritone) coming. I've got Worth brown 1&2 with Hilo wounds 3&4 on the Martin now. Really a nice sound.

I've found Southcoast wounds the best for my tenors so far.
 
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