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View Full Version : AHHH!!!!! Bridge tore off my mainland!



oldetymey
08-04-2013, 03:39 AM
So i go to grab my mainland out of its case this morning and oh my god the bridge has torn off! So crushed. Its kept in a hard case with a humidifier so not sure what happened. Going to reglue it and hope for the best. It took a few slivers of the wood with it but mostly a clean break. Looks like the glue just gave out. So sad.....56646

mm stan
08-04-2013, 03:42 AM
Holy Toledo,
Sorry for the bad news.....how long did you have it and it may still be under warranty....

oldetymey
08-04-2013, 04:01 AM
Its been glued and in the clamps already. Im not the original owner and Ive had it more than a year. So not a warranty issue. The bridge seemed to slip right back in its original place easily so hopefully I got it close enough for rock and roll as they say. Well see. Time to start saving for that mya moe I guess. :(

Lori
08-04-2013, 06:15 AM
The repair might be just fine, and last many years. I had a bridge pop off a uke once, and it was repaired under warranty and has had no problems since. It happens sometimes.

–Lori

Freeda
08-04-2013, 06:43 AM
I'd call Mike just to see if he had input on a proper repair for it. Can't hurt.

coolkayaker1
08-04-2013, 07:26 AM
Bridges popping off Mainlands are known; many threads in past for same issue. Can search bridge Mainland.

Yep, out of warranty so a little Crazy Glue and a tight clamp is key. If still issue, drill through and make it a string through design to solve issue.

I adore my 3 Mya Moes.

oldetymey
08-04-2013, 10:05 AM
I'd call Mike just to see if he had input on a proper repair for it. Can't hurt.

Ive reglued bridges before usually though its on some flea market piece o crap. Not a uke I actually care about. To my credit I have yet to have a uke I reglued fail and Ive always managed to get the bridges positioned accurately. Ill leave it clamped till tommorow then restring in the evening after work. Fingers crossed its still as good as before

oldetymey
08-04-2013, 10:09 AM
Bridges popping off Mainlands are known; many threads in past for same issue. Can search bridge Mainland.

Yep, out of warranty so a little Crazy Glue and a tight clamp is key. If still issue, drill through and make it a string through design to solve issue.

I adore my 3 Mya Moes.

I guess they are huh? Wonder what kind of glue they are using? Im sure this happens on alot of different ukes. Just one of those crappy things. As for the Mya Moe. Id love one but I dont think Id ever put that kind of cash out for a uke.

PeteyHoudini
08-04-2013, 10:29 AM
I used to have a Mainland soprano cedar. Just after buying it from the local store, I noticed the nut moved and could be moved. It had not been glued on properly. However, the store I bought it from has a luthier on site and it was guaranteed by the store and he fixed it. I don't have that Mainland anymore but I thought it was a very nice uke. This post made me remember my little problem.

Petey

Flyinby
08-04-2013, 05:23 PM
Krazy (Crazy) glue or other superglues may not be the best to use. I did some research on this when my son's Epiphone guitar popped the bridge, and found out it's not really such a big deal to do. While the Ep had a lifetime warranty, the shop owner noted that sending it in to them, with the long wait, may not be worth the trouble for a simple repair.

Glues that don't soften with heat are not recommended because the wood can be damaged if you ever need to remove the bridge. Super glues and Gorilla Glue are not recommended for that reason. Hide glues are great but you have to mix them up if you can find them locally, but good old Titebond original wood glue works really well, and it can be found in most hardware stores. It's best to remove the old glue completely if possible, not by sanding (sanding tears the wood fiber and weakens the joint, I learned from my old aircraft A&P license exam days).

Ironically, glues that soften with heat can get hot enough locked up in a closed car in the sun to soften them, but at least if that should happen, it should come of cleanly instead of with splinters of the wood.

sonomajazz
08-04-2013, 06:37 PM
Bridges popping off Mainlands are known; many threads in past for same issue. Can search bridge Mainland.

Yep, out of warranty so a little Crazy Glue and a tight clamp is key. If still issue, drill through and make it a string through design to solve issue.

I adore my 3 Mya Moes.

Drill through...hmmmmm...is that something I could or would do to a high caliber type uke?

coolkayaker1
08-04-2013, 08:22 PM
Drill through...hmmmmm...is that something I could or would do to a high caliber type uke?
Yes. Then string through design.

Oldpharte had some great posts with photos, I wish I could find the thread. I'll look, Fred.

Edit: http://www.ukuleleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?76297-Plz-How-Stop-String-Cut-Bridge

Okay, that thread started the discussion. John had great photo close ups after he did it, and it worked. He used a fine drill. John?

oldetymey
08-04-2013, 11:36 PM
Krazy (Crazy) glue or other superglues may not be the best to use. I did some research on this when my son's Epiphone guitar popped the bridge, and found out it's not really such a big deal to do. While the Ep had a lifetime warranty, the shop owner noted that sending it in to them, with the long wait, may not be worth the trouble for a simple repair.

Glues that don't soften with heat are not recommended because the wood can be damaged if you ever need to remove the bridge. Super glues and Gorilla Glue are not recommended for that reason. Hide glues are great but you have to mix them up if you can find them locally, but good old Titebond original wood glue works really well, and it can be found in most hardware stores. It's best to remove the old glue completely if possible, not by sanding (sanding tears the wood fiber and weakens the joint, I learned from my old aircraft A&P license exam days).

Ironically, glues that soften with heat can get hot enough locked up in a closed car in the sun to soften them, but at least if that should happen, it should come of cleanly instead of with splinters of the wood.


In this case and in the case of my other woodworking projects at home I use Gorilla glue wood glue. Not to be confused with its moisture activated foaming cousin, this is just plain old wood glue. Its good stuff, I even use it to attach riser blocks to longbows. Its out of the clamps now, and Im pretty pleased with the results. Youd never know it even came off except for a tiny chip in the finish right above the bridge. Restringing after work tonight.

oldetymey
08-04-2013, 11:39 PM
Yes. Then string through design.

Oldpharte had some great posts with photos, I wish I could find the thread. I'll look, Fred.

Edit: http://www.ukuleleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?76297-Plz-How-Stop-String-Cut-Bridge

Okay, that thread started the discussion. John had great photo close ups after he did it, and it worked. He used a fine drill. John?

Pretty snazzy trick, I didnt really visualize what you were talking about when you mentioned this earlier but I see it now, maybe a project for the future...

mm stan
08-05-2013, 01:38 AM
I hope you cleaned the area good...and clamped well for no slippage..the reason many luthiers use Hide Glue is because it is the easiest to take off....other adhesitives may be more
permenent and some will even get more tear out if tried...if you do ever get it off if you get a mistake slipage...you know how important the right position for intonation is very crucial
hope things turn out well...yes hide glue is reversable...

TheCraftedCow
08-05-2013, 09:36 PM
With THROUGH THE BODY stringing, the bridge is only to set the elevation and the scale length. The #69 bit is small enough to allow the two bass side strings to pass through. It improves the sound as well as assures the bridge will not self-launch.