Useful luthiery tools

Stompfrog

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Hi all,

I have been doing a fair bit of thinking recently about what tools I need (would like to have) to make ukuleles/guitars. It would be great to get some feedback from some more experience builders.

What I am trying to achieve is a sensible set of core tools to allow me to produce small volumes of good quality instruments in a reasonable timescale.

  • Router*
  • Router table*
  • Small drill Press*
  • Small drum sander thicknesser
  • Small bandsaw/scroll saw

I imagine that there are a load more specialist tools/jigs that I will want to buy/build in the future but in terms of the core pieces of kit for a small luthiers workshop does this list seem reasonable?

NB: I appreciate that a skilled craftsman with plenty of time on his hands could probably make an incredible ukulele armed with nothing more than a swiss army knife so many of the tools I mention could be considered luxuries. But luxuries are nice right? :)

* Items I already have
 
I would do a search on this site for "luthiery tools" or "tools"and I'll bet you'll find this question has been asked many times and find lots of info.
Just want to add if you look on YouTube for videos by Pete Howlett you will find some great instructional videos ,I think he does one on tools.
 
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Hi Pete, thanks for the feedback.

As per your recommendations I have found both this forum and youtube a great source of information. I have spent many an hour in bed watching videos on the ipad (including the Pete Howlett one you mention).

I guess I was just looking for a bit of reassurance that my "big item shopping list" was a sane and a wise investment. I didn't want to pull the trigger on an expensive saw/sander only to find out that it wasn't as useful as I expected and that the money would have been better spent on something else.

Perhaps a more interesting question would be...

If your much-loved workshop got abducted by some jealous alien luthiers what would be the first 3 power tools that you would buy to get yourself back in business?
 
Agree w/Chuck's List as prioritized. Since you already have the Router Table there are lots of time-saving operations that you can perform:
1) Joint Backs & Tops (much faster than hand plane and shooting board or sandpaper jigs, etc.)
2) Flush trim the body, neck, sides of the headstock, etc.
3) Taper the fret board using a flush trimming bit
and on........
 
Yes, if I were to add a 5th item the router/laminate trimmer & table would be right up there. I use them almost daily.
BTW, I know there are a lot of tool junkies here but a huge array of tools can create distance between you and your instrument. Some basics, as noted, are indispensable. Honestly, to do the work efficiently you'll also need at least a couple of dozen other lessor tools and jigs as well.
 
It looks like I am on the right lines with the shopping list. Thanks for the approving nods :)

1) Joint Backs & Tops (much faster than hand plane and shooting board or sandpaper jigs, etc.)

This sounds interesting, could you elaborate a bit please. :)
 
Use a spiral carbide bit against a GOOD (read expensive) straight edge. Straight bits won't work, it'll leave chatter marks. Get the best straight edge you can afford. (Lee Valley) Rulers and bar stock aren't straight.
 

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If I did more Jointed plates than I do (about two tenor ukes a year on average)....Then I would definitely invest in the tools and use Chuck's method..there's now't wrong with that process that I can see :D
And by the way! I got rid of my table saw, mainly co's it was a cheap nasty one, and it was too big....I think I could find a use for a small accurate table saw Tho'.
 
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If I did more Jointed plates than I do (about two tenor ukes a year on average)....Then I would definitely invest in the tools and use Chuck's method..there's now't wrong with that process that I can see :D
And by the way! I got rid of my table saw, mainly co's it was a cheap nasty one, and it was too big....I think I could find a use for a small accurate table saw Tho'.

It's about as perfect as you can get Ken. And a machined edge makes a much better joint than a sanded one. Shooting with a hand plane took too long and was frustrating for me. The key is an absolute straight edge and the router bit (Eagle). The spiral bit keeps a cutting edge on the wood at all times as opposed to a fluted bit which will leave a slightly irregular surface.
BTW, the inner faces of the holding jig are lined with 80 grit sand paper to keep the plates from shifting.
 
+1 regarding jointing plates with a router table and spiral bit. Mind you, I wish I'd seen a pic of Chuck's jig about 2 months ago. I've just reinvented an inferior (but still functional) wheel.
Miguel
 
I also agree with Chuck's list, although I'd put the router/table above the table saw.
The one thing I would delete in your original list would be the word 'small', especially where the bandsaw is concerned. Get the biggest you can afford/accommodate. :)
 
I'm just getting started. I have built one complete baritone body and learned that the thickness sander was 1, 2, and 3 in time-saving/quality importance. I also used a reciprocating spindle sander for many, many things.

(found a 16-32 sander for $475 on craigslist and expect instrument #2 to go much better/faster as a result)

Jim
 
That technique is awesome. I did an electric guitar with a book matched flamed maple top. That was jointed using a plane and shooting board and it was fairly tedious. I'll be adding this to my list of "jigs" to make list for sure!! :)
 
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