olgoat52
Well-known member
A fellow UU'er asked me to try and address a high action problem (5/32" at the 12th) on a uke he bought a while ago. No maker label. It was made by a fellow up in Alaska. Pretty good quality woods and workmanship.
Shaving the bridge or making a new thinner bridge is not really going to do it. The neck angle is just wrong. Intonation is pretty good so he did most of it right.
Looking through the sound hole I can see the end grain of two dowels that I suspect are straight through the neck block. One near the top, one near the back.
No binding on the instrument. Solid wood 2 piece back and solid maple sides.
I was initially thinking of cutting the neck off (zero set saw) to cut through the dowels, but now I am thinking of slipping the back unless someone has a good idea on loosening the dowel glue joint.
For slipping the back, should the glue joint under the finger board tab be loosened as well?
Thanks for any thoughts.
Shaving the bridge or making a new thinner bridge is not really going to do it. The neck angle is just wrong. Intonation is pretty good so he did most of it right.
Looking through the sound hole I can see the end grain of two dowels that I suspect are straight through the neck block. One near the top, one near the back.
No binding on the instrument. Solid wood 2 piece back and solid maple sides.
I was initially thinking of cutting the neck off (zero set saw) to cut through the dowels, but now I am thinking of slipping the back unless someone has a good idea on loosening the dowel glue joint.
For slipping the back, should the glue joint under the finger board tab be loosened as well?
Thanks for any thoughts.