Removing top from Grizzly kit

I've seen some examples of Grizzly ukes where the soundboard was replaced with solid wood. I would like to give it a try. What is the best way to get the top off?

Disclaimer:
I realize that this is probably not worth the time, effort or expense. I am doing this to get a little experience.

Thanks

sarastro said:

I've seen some examples of Grizzly ukes where the soundboard was replaced with solid wood. I would like to give it a try. What is the best way to get the top off?

Disclaimer:
I realize that this is probably not worth the time, effort or expense. I am doing this to get a little experience.

Thanks

Click to expand...

Depends on the glue used to glue it down.

What if I just saw it off? I could leave a bit at the edge to act as kerfing to glue the new top to.

I have sawed off a few tops using a dremmel wheel and careful cutting. worked fine. Anne

Here's the reply I got when I asked that question. Answer from dhoenisch

Sorry, I must have missed that post. All I did was use a clothes iron to heat the top, starting at the neck block, and using a thin and flexible spatula, I wedged it in at the neck block area (to hide it in case I nick the side at all) and just worked my way around the body. They use pretty cheap glue, so the whole process only take two or three minutes.

Once the top is off. be sure to inspect the kerfing. The one I am currently working on, half of the kerfing wasn't even glued on. I re-glued it all back on and am now going to put a western red ceder top on the uke, and am using purple heart for the fingerboard, bridge and headstock overlay. I did a similar one last year using Engleman spruce and bloodwood. Here's a link to that post: http://www.ukuleleunderground.com/fo...ed-Grizzly-Uke

If that is all true, then I would consider getting some 1/8" (etc...) piece of ply as an external flange, and cutting the plan view out of it. Then cut away the neck area. Put it on the body with hot melt, you could use masking tape to lower the impact on the finish, then remove the top with heat. That way you have a 10 minute body mold and no mater what the condition with the linings you won't have any problems with the sides changing shape. 5 minute epoxy would work even better since it doesn't move.