Good solution for mixing small batches of epoxy

Chris_H

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Anyone have good solutions for mixing small batches of epoxy by volume? Small containers, syringes, whatever, etc.. I use a scale for larger batches, but have not searched out small containers, or mixing tools for mixing by volume. I struggle for small containers, and end up wasting epoxy too often. Anything from a half a thimble full, for something like a small fill, to slightly more.. I need a solution, and would be curious to hear what others use.

Cheers!

and thank you all.
 
Mixing tiny batches accurately by volume is pretty tough. I use a gram scale like this:

http://www.amazon.com/American-Weig...F8&qid=1395427446&sr=8-11&keywords=gram+scale

Put a paper Dixie Cup (the little ones that are about 1.5" tall) on the scale, then turn it on. The scale is then zeroed with the weight of the cup. Squeeze out the first part. Note the weight. The types of epoxy I use aren't measured equal by weight so the second part is determined by applying a factor to the first squeeze. I always write the factor on the bottle so I don't forget. Example: first squeeze is 20g, multiply by 1.15 gives 23g, so the total weight shown on the scale after addition of the second part is 43.

This happens at least five times as fast as I can type it.
 
I just put two small blobs close together on a piece of scrap...Then use a small stick of wood and mix em together.
 
I have a good scale. I was looking for some sort of small container or other metered method. I want something faster for small batches.
 
eyeballing it with bloObs spooks me a bit. SOme epoxies are not critical in the mix ratio, but some are. The generic 5 minute epoxy, Devcon, is not critical. T-88 is critical. Enough so that I shy away from mixing by eye with blobs. Especially since the two components have different viscosities, so it can be difficult to guage 'equal portions', and with a small amount, the likelihood for error is greater.

I am looking for some sort of small measuring vessel of some sort, was hoping that someone had a solution that they had been using for years, and were happy with.
 
In my loudspeaker manufacturing days I used a lot of epoxy putting the parts together....Mainly coil to cone was the critical joint..The epoxy recomended by ElecroVoice was very expensive stuff and the mix was 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener and it took over 24 hours to cure..some times I got the mix the wrong way about:( but it always seemed to cured alright..I got on the phone to the Lab, and asked them about it..and the Guy in the Lab says "The mix is not all that critical don't worry about it, you're just wasting hardener" :)
 
I use the Timbuck method as we'll. I've been using this method for model airplane building for close to 50 years now and never had an issue with improperly cured epoxy. It's a lot more important to make sure it's mixed WELL and not too cold in my experience.
 
For a small container I use a soda pop can. Pull off the pull tab and turn the can upside down. Viola! You have a nice little bowl in which to mix small batches of epoxy. For larger batches and fussier expoxies I use a triple beam scale and mix in yogurt cups.
 
I've been getting these little mixing cups from LMI when I order.
http://www.lmii.com/products/finishing/adhesives/mixing-cups
I used some dixie cups but I think I scraped off some of the wax during the mixing and it caused me problems. I'm sure there are other little cups like these but I haven't found them. For a scale I've been using a grain scale like you'd use for reloading. Very accurate but they won't do very large amounts which is what you're kinda looking for.
 
I use the small mixing cups from lee valley, and 5 ml disposable syringes to meter out the epoxy. I reuse the syringes storing them in zip loc bags between uses replacing them as needed, so far so good, sometimes I measure as little as 3 ml.
 
My wife eats lots of yogurt. I have lots of epoxy mix cups.

Eyeballing 1:1 blobs here too.

When I was using West System & System 3, back in my boat days, the West brochure advocated mixing well, rather than the dead-on accuracy of the ratio. I've never had a failure with any kind.
 
Waste epoxy can be put in the freezer where it freezes but does not harden. The lower temperature slows the hardening process and it melts back. Some boat builders I know have kept leftover epoxy like this for months. I have used this method unintentionally on a cold Canberra night with 5 minute epoxy not setting till I brought it inside. One bloke puts his leftover epoxy in a zip lock bag and snaps off what he needs.
The other end of epoxy's sensitivity to temperature is that on really hot days I have had batches of boat building epoxy go hard on me after 10 minutes when the usual working time is over an hour. In big batches it can even go exothermal.

This tip may not work if you get a cold climate hardener.
 
I started using a scale when feeling the differences in set hardness when mixing by eye. Thank you Titch, I have a freezer adjacent to my shop, and am going to freeze my next epoxy leftovers.. You just helped save the planet! Yes, I have had a few 'hot flashes'.. oh gawd... I have worked with polyester resin in pretty large quantities, and also with a hopper gun.. I know that when you can see smoke coming off the mix, you really shouldn't breathe that stuff.
 
A) Z-poxy, where mixing ratios aren't all that critical. Been doing it by eye for years and haven't had a failure yet.
B) jello pudding cups. My kid empties them faster than I can use them up. Also, small cups with lids you can get at Gordon Foods. You get a hundred dirt cheap. I also use those to take peanut butter to work to go on my morning bagel. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31NBJ83raNL.jpg
 
For small batches, I use the bottom of a soda can. Easy to eyeball the drops of resin and hardener, easy to mix with a toothpick, easy to scrape out and use.
 
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I eyeball the blobs onto a small notepad, and stir with a popsicle stick from the craft store. Tear off the top sheet and use a new stick the next time. I've never had trouble with the final results. Seems it might just take a bit longer to cure if you really do get the quantities wrong. I've used those double-barelled pre-filled syringes since they first came out.
 
I eyeball the blobs onto a small notepad, and stir with a popsicle stick from the craft store. Tear off the top sheet and use a new stick the next time. I've never had trouble with the final results. Seems it might just take a bit longer to cure if you really do get the quantities wrong. I've used those double-barelled pre-filled syringes since they first came out.
Thats right....When I want to use small amounts of epoxy I nip out to the local DIY store and get one of these.
 
Little silicone prep bowls - about 2" in diameter - the extra epoxy dries and pops out. You can wash them with soap and water, and even bend them inside out.
Have several and love them. Any glue will come out after drying. Cheap. Find them in bed, bath and beyond here in the US and also grocery stores sometimes.
Anne
 
I want a precision, metered or measured solution. T-88 is sensitive to mix ratio. Too much hardener and it is brittle, too little and, at least, the cure time is slow. Eyeballing is not adequate with that stuff, except in non critical, non structural applications, in my experience. I will post back when I find the solution. I just figured that someone here would have already worked this out.
 
I sometimes find occasions to use Systems III Clear Coat. It needs to be precisely and thoroughly mixed, exactly 100:43. I'll weigh the percentages I need on a triple beam balance scale in grams using a yogurt cup. I made a little wire whisk (just a loop of wire really) for my Dremel tool and I will whisk it on slow speed (about #4) for a full two minutes. Never had a problem with curing.
 
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