Bridge size and weight question

would overall a light small bridge be better then a heavier bridge. it will be a string thru body design so i can make it really flat.

tangimango said:

would overall a light small bridge be better then a heavier bridge. it will be a string thru body design so i can make it really flat.

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Yes, with limitations. Many things to consider.

The choice of wood species is also a huge consideration. Balsa and spruce are light, but would make rubbish bridges. Even some of the more traditional bridge materials in ukes such as mahogany or koa can be too light to make a suitable bridge. Really depends on the piece in question.

Personally I don't like a super light bridge. I want a "bit" of mass. It along with a few other things helps with sustain in my instruments.

Agree with Allen on most accounts. For an easy way on how to do it correct, consider the Martin bridges on their ukes. Hardwoods are best.

In regard to bridge size, just remember that a bridge is your most important brace, yes, brace- it just happens to be on the outside. It works in conjunction with the bridge plate and internal braces and all three should be though of together.

In regard to bridge size, just remember that a bridge is your most important brace, yes, brace- it just happens to be on the outside. It works in conjunction with the bridge plate and internal braces and all three should be thought of together.

I agree with Beau it is a brace so the width is also important, I like a heavy bridge Rosewood or Ebony which gives you more mass, I had a guitar in for repair once and I wanted to change the bridge, the bridge was painted black, I shaved it with a knife to see what wood it was and the shavings were silver, It was made of lead and bolted on, It had a manufactures label but I can't remember who it was ( it was about 25 years ago) I guess the idea was the more weight in the center the more vibes.

Stan

stanleypope said:

I agree with Beau it is a brace so the width is also important, I like a heavy bridge Rosewood or Ebony which gives you more mass, I had a guitar in for repair once and I wanted to change the bridge, the bridge was painted black, I shaved it with a knife to see what wood it was and the shavings were silver, It was made of lead and bolted on, It had a manufactures label but I can't remember who it was ( it was about 25 years ago) I guess the idea was the more weight in the center the more vibes.

Stan

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Well ukes aren't guitars and very little bracing is needed for sopranos or concerts. Too much mass and the sound dies. I can't think of any material that would kill sound and vibration quicker than lead. What the hell were they thinking?

Like any other brace, a bridge should be light in weight and stiff.

The resonant top frequency of a uke (or guitar) can be lowered by making a heavier bridge. Likewise, a lighter bridge will raise the frequency.

From memory, 1 gram of added or subtracted material at the bridge equals 1 Hz difference.

Additionally, the same thing (changing the top frequency) can be done by changing the sound hole diameter.

This is all done to make sure the top and back aren't resonating in unison and that the top isn't resonating on a scaled note...which would give a uke/guitar/violin etcetce wolf notes, which are bad. You want a top (of any instrument) to resonate between two scaled notes. It may be different with Indian instruments like the sitar which use micro scales.

http://www.indiana.edu/~emusic/hertz.htm

thank you everyone, just learned so much on the bridge itself.