Preferred fretboard radius

AlaskaTheo

AlaskaTheo

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I'm thinking about trying some radiused fretboards and was wondering what accepted radii are for ukuleles.

Should different scale lengths get different radiuses? how about when it comes to compound radiuses?

I'm currently building a jig for a guitar sized fretboard (12"-16"), can I simply throw soprano fretboard (for example) on one end or the other and have it work out? or will I not get what I'm after or other unforeseen problems?

Thanks, not only have I not made a radiused fretboard, but neither have I played a uke with one, well sure for a minute at the music store, but not really played one.
 
I have recently completed a concert and two tenors using radiused fingerboards for the first time. I settled on a straight 16" radius for both the concert & tenors - created using the same long sanding block I use for guitars. I didn't sand the radius right to the centre line all the way down the neck, but left a progressively wider centre section from about the 10th fret onwards, which I blended in freehand. Very pleased with the results - I definitely prefer the feel of a radiused board.

The only issues I encountered were:
1) The radius used up the spare fret slot depth left by my slotting jig, and after bottoming out a couple of frets I realised I needed to deepen all slots.
2) The need to pre-bend the straight fretwire I had in stock for ukuleles. Fortunately, I was able to borrow a fretwire bender. For the tenors, in future I will probably use the same coiled fretwire I use on acoustic guitars, which won't need bending. It is a little too wide for a concert though.
 
I've used a 16" radius. For a while, a radius fret board seemed to be the option du jour and I was doing a lot of them. Last year I finally built one for myself to see what all the fuss was about. I find that for some reason the uke is more difficult to play. I stuck with it daily for a few months but now it just hangs as I find that my flat board ukes are more comfortable. As a result I have dropped the flat fret board as an option. I've never built something I'd never want to own or play myself. There are enough builders around who are happy to do anything the customer wants.
 
I use a 12" radius. The only problem I have had when making radiused boards is if they are bound it can be difficult to get the packed sanding dust out of the slots. It really gets in there and not being able to run a fine saw in the slot makes it difficult to clean the slot. It only takes a few minutes to radius a tenor sized board. I use a 12" radius sanding block I purchased from stumac. I use a couple of drops of hot glue to glue my already tapered board to a flat piece of wood that I clamp into a vice to work the board. I do the shaping with 80 grit then go thru the grits to 600 to finish. For me it took a little while to get used to playing a radiused board but after a day or two I now prefer it.
 
Michael Smith said:
I use a 12" radius. The only problem I have had when making radiused boards is if they are bound it can be difficult to get the packed sanding dust out of the slots. It really gets in there and not being able to run a fine saw in the slot makes it difficult to clean the slot. It only takes a few minutes to radius a tenor sized board. I use a 12" radius sanding block I purchased from stumac. I use a couple of drops of hot glue to glue my already tapered board to a flat piece of wood that I clamp into a vice to work the board. I do the shaping with 80 grit then go thru the grits to 600 to finish. For me it took a little while to get used to playing a radiused board but after a day or two I now prefer it.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure why you'd have more difficulty in removing the dust from the slot in a radiused fret board. All of my fret boards are bound and I don't find it hard to clean up. I first hit fb with compressed air, then clean up with that little hooked slot cleaning tool Stew mac offers. They also have a great little push/pull saw (each blade is about 1/2" long) that's great for cleaning up slots and removing glue.
 
AlaskaTheo said:
I'm thinking about trying some radiused fretboards and was wondering what accepted radii are for ukuleles.

Should different scale lengths get different radiuses? how about when it comes to compound radiuses?

I'm currently building a jig for a guitar sized fretboard (12"-16"), can I simply throw soprano fretboard (for example) on one end or the other and have it work out? or will I not get what I'm after or other unforeseen problems?

Thanks, not only have I not made a radiused fretboard, but neither have I played a uke with one, well sure for a minute at the music store, but not really played one.
Click to expand...

I've only made tenors; my preferred radius is 12". There's a shot of radiusing the board by hand on my Uke construction tips page:

http://www.bluestemstrings.com/pageUke1.html
 
I only use a 12" radius on the uke fret boards. Anything less than that and it's pretty difficult to even tell it's been done.

I have plenty of clients try them for the first time and can't believe how much easier it is to play, and come back and order another, or recommend people to get them.

So each to their own. It really is a personal thing that you will either love, hate or be totally indifferent to.
 
Thanks, it seems like a good place to start is to do a 12" and see how I like it.

I'm staying away from bound fretboards at the moment, I recently ruined one with a poor fret install (most of it was great, but ultimately unsatisfactory, a couple of the fretends are bent and I'll never get the frets out without disaster), it seems like a fret press is a must. I'll save that battle for this fall, I have a few instruments on the bench (#14-17) and want to get them done before summer, problem free and smooth sailing, I've already got several new challenges with those to figure, odd soundholes, side ports, a little venetian cutaway steel string with arm bevel (6 strings but only 20" scale), all kinds of trouble shooting coming my way.

Rudy- I really dig the soundhole clamps on your uke page. Also, thanks, this last fall I used a bunch of information from your site rebuilding a banjo for a friend who had it in her family for a long time, a really special project that turned out great. Your site is awesome


,
 
Last edited:
AlaskaTheo said:
Thanks, it seems like a good place to start is to do a 12" and see how I like it.

I'm staying away from bound fretboards at the moment, I recently ruined one with a poor fret install (most of it was great, but ultimately unsatisfactory, a couple of the fretends are bent and I'll never get the frets out without disaster), it seems like a fret press is a must. I'll save that battle for this fall, I have a few instruments on the bench (#14-17) and want to get them done before summer, problem free and smooth sailing, I've already got several new challenges with those to figure, odd soundholes, side ports, a little venetian cutaway steel string with arm bevel (6 strings but only 20" scale), all kinds of trouble shooting coming my way.

Rudy- I really dig the soundhole clamps on your uke page. Also, thanks, this last fall I used a bunch of information from your site rebuilding a banjo for a friend who had it in her family for a long time, a really special project that turned out great. Your site is awesome


,
Click to expand...

Thanks, glad to be of assistance.

Consider more hammer work when fretting. I used to use a press, but if you invest just a bit more time in learning to use a hammer correctly you'll find it quick, easy, and adaptable to all your fretting needs.

PS: I hate bound fret boards. I always undercut tang ends and fill slots with a little raised dust from the edge and a drop of CA in the slot. There's a demo shot of the process in my Banjohangout.org homepage photos I believe.

I've got a video at my YouTube channel for how to make your own fret finishing file and how to use it to finish fret ends. You can find my YouTube channel by chosing to watch any of my website videos on YouTube instead of the embedded video.
 
The Godin site says its Multiuke fretboard is a 24" radius... I would think it's hardly noticeable...
 
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