Aquila Red - new formula dating???

DownUpDave

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I am wanting to try the Aquila Reds but I have read there were problems with the old formula but the new formula has solved those issues.

How can I tell if it is the new formula. I have seen a date sticker on some packages, if this is how it is determined what date do I look for.

Has anyone tried the non wound low G set. I like the idea of low G but the wound low G bugs me. The difference in pitch and the metal sound is too different to me when coupled with nygut or floro type strings

Sorry to start another RED thread but I really want to make sure I know how to determine the new formula.
 
I can't imagine that you're likely to buy the old formula now, are you? IIRC, the change was a good while back. For my two cents (from a BC-born Brit!), they are THE BEST strings I've ever played. I just switched out a perfectly excellent set of Living Water strings on my soprano to get back to my beloved Reds. Just buy 'em. They're wonderful!

Ben
 
I am looking at a package of Soprano Regular Aquila Reds 83U that were just ordered in for me from my local music store - could have ordered online, but wanted to support a local shop that was only carrying Martin M600's.

No date that I can determine on the package. The sticker bar code ends in 14, though, which may indicate year of production.
 
I can't imagine that you're likely to buy the old formula now, are you? IIRC, the change was a good while back.

In fact, you still may be likely to get the old formulation now, depending on the vendor's stock. Usually there's no indication until you receive the strings. I believe the start date for the new, improved Reds was "12/13"; that mo/yr or anything newer (in the little, white sticker on the pack) means they're the new ones.

However, note that the reformulation won't solve the common problem of the Red low G string being slightly wider than 1.0mm (tenor), which often is too wide for a stock nut slot (unmodified). Red strings tend to be somewhat brittle because of their copper-infusion formulation and unwilling to endure a too-snug nut slot. My low G snapped at the nut after about a week so I replaced it with a Fremont Soloist (available singly, about $4) flat-wound "squeakless" low G string (about 0.7mm); it plays quite well with the surviving Red CEA strings.
 
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I switched to using the red low G instead of a wound classical guitar string and (no surprise) it's much better and more balanced. A little 'papery' sounding and feeling.

There's still an issue with breakage, as instructions are included in the pack to hold the string out of the nut while tightening. I had one string break on me after just a few days. I filed out the nut just a little to make sure there were no sharp edges or points to catch on. The new one's been on there about a week or so with no problems.
 
I got some Reds from Elderly a few weeks ago, & they all have additional white stickers with a date. The tenor low G singles (72U) say "BE 3/2014". The tenor low G set (88U) is labeled " BA 4/2014". The low G that broke after 3 months had no date label, & was purchased in December. That store still has old Reds, but not for tenor.
If you can get them locally, look for the label.
I love the low G and Red 3rd & 4th on a baritone.
 
I have several pair of re-entrant, both in tenor and soprano and have had no issues. May label dates range from 11/2013 to 3/2014. I also have one set of soprano low G that I have yet to use that is dated 09/2013.
 
I just bought a couple Red Aquila Low G's online since I could not find them locally. I tried my first one a couple weeks ago, and like most, loved the sound, but it popped after about a week. Hoping the new ones are the newer version, and I am going to try some of the things described on here as to how to make them last longer.
 
Lo-G 'Reds'

I've had a set of Lo-G Aquila Reds on my Mahalo pineapple soprano for some while now with no problems at all. I did have to file out the nut groove (obviously) and was VERY careful to ensure the slot was wide enough for the new string, with no sharp edges, before I tightened it. The original compensated saddle was wrong for the new strings, so that had to be replaced as well (but it found a new home). The result, for me, was an instrument that sounded significantly different to a "normal" uke and I'm very happy with it :)
 
The snapping problems have mostly been with low-G tenor strings, often (it seems) because unwound low Gs are necessarily thick for the tenor scale, versus some standard nut slot widths.
 
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