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iamesperambient
07-09-2014, 08:12 AM
I know this has probably been asked many times here but I'm trying to decide if its worth it for me to try different strings on my laminate tenor i changed the strings once to oasis and found it to bright and went back to aquila and found it was much warmer and nice sounding but the thickness of the strings i find not as pleasing as well as it doesn't sound as natural to me. I'm about ready to put south coast SMU strings on my tenor just wondering before i put them on if anyone else has tried other brand strings like this on a lam tenor with better results.

I put living water strings on my cheap rogue baritone and it really transformed it into a playable instrument...which is why i considered doing this on other ukes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Icelander53
07-09-2014, 08:21 AM
Well it's not expensive to try so I'd certainly consider it worth the trouble. IMO it's hard to beat Aquila however and maybe especially for laminates.

iamesperambient
07-09-2014, 08:22 AM
Well it's not expensive to try so I'd certainly consider it worth the trouble. IMO it's hard to beat Aquila however and maybe especially for laminates.

thats what i hear im almost afraid to waste the aquilas if they sound better i feel like i wasted them :/
I do have a set of those aurora silkguts too which i assume are similar to nylgut so i guess if these
don't work out i can always put those on.

hawaii 50
07-09-2014, 08:24 AM
I know this has probably been asked many times here but I'm trying to decide if its worth it for me to try different strings on my laminate tenor i changed the strings once to oasis and found it to bright and went back to aquila and found it was much warmer and nice sounding but the thickness of the strings i find not as pleasing as well as it doesn't sound as natural to me. I'm about ready to put south coast SMU strings on my tenor just wondering before i put them on if anyone else has tried other brand strings like this on a lam tenor with better results.

I put living water strings on my cheap rogue baritone and it really transformed it into a playable instrument...which is why i considered doing this on other ukes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

yes you have....:)

sometimes you need to let new strings settle on your uke...maybe for 2-3 weeks not 2 or 3 days to get the real sound of the stings...let them sit on your uke longer and see what happens...

or you will drive yourself crazy.....:)

my 2 cents

iamesperambient
07-09-2014, 08:28 AM
yes you have....:)

sometimes you need to let new strings settle on your uke...maybe for 2-3 weeks not 2 or 3 days to get the real sound of the stings...let them sit on your uke longer and see what happens...

or you will drive yourself crazy.....:)

my 2 cents

my tenor came with aquilas, and i liked how it sounded but found it a tad too 'fake' or unnatural sounding and i thought it was bright
but once i put on the oasis i realized they were not bright at all! i from the get go did not like the oasis on my tenor mainly
because the tension was so high it sounded not like a tenor anymore.

I put aquilas back on and they settled in pretty quick its been 2 weeks now and honestly it sounds really great
but still i'd like something mellower still with a little less punch and a little more natural sounding. I think the south
coasts should do it but i'm nervous to change them after what happened with the oasis strings.

The guy from oasis was kind enough to send me a replacement set with a low G i have to try those out soon too (never did low g yet).
I just keep hearing strings other than aquila won't make a difference on a lam uke, but i feel like its semi untrue because a string change
really did improve the sound so much on my cheap baritone rogue.

hawaii 50
07-09-2014, 08:32 AM
my tenor came with aquilas, and i liked how it sounded but found it a tad too 'fake' or unnatural sounding and i thought it was bright
but once i put on the oasis i realized they were not bright at all! i from the get go did not like the oasis on my tenor mainly
because the tension was so high it sounded not like a tenor anymore.

I put aquilas back on and they settled in pretty quick its been 2 weeks now and honestly it sounds really great
but still i'd like something mellower still with a little less punch and a little more natural sounding. I think the south
coasts should do it but i'm nervous to change them after what happened with the oasis strings.

The guy from oasis was kind enough to send me a replacement set with a low G i have to try those out soon too (never did low g yet).
I just keep hearing strings other than aquila won't make a difference on a lam uke, but i feel like its semi untrue because a string change
really did improve the sound so much on my cheap baritone rogue.

you can try DiAdarrio Nyltech...same compound(formula) as the Aquila's but made in the US by DiAdarrio
maybe has a different feel...

if you don't like Oasis that is fine..you don't have too....stick with the Aquila...bottom line it is your uke,,,do what you feel is best....

iamesperambient
07-09-2014, 08:35 AM
you can try DiAdarrio Nyltech...same compound(formula) as the Aquila's but made in the US by DiAdarrio
maybe has a different feel...

if you don't like Oasis that is fine..you don't have too....stick with the Aquila...bottom line it is your uke,,,do what you feel is best....

well i ordered south coast SMU they came in a few days ago just nervous to put them on they may really change the sound for the better and or worse
just for some reason i'm having anxiety about changing strings now lol

hawaii 50
07-09-2014, 08:37 AM
well i ordered south coast SMU they came in a few days ago just nervous to put them on they may really change the sound for the better and or worse
just for some reason i'm having anxiety about changing strings now lol

I can see the strings are already driving you crazy....:)
stick with the ones you like and again leave them on for more than 2 or 3 days.....

bunnyf
07-09-2014, 08:38 AM
I like living waters custom tenor dGBE on my tenor. Don't know if you are looking for something that mellow but if I want something brighter, I play my concert or soprano.

YogenFruz
07-09-2014, 08:43 AM
If you're looking for something mellower, maybe try the Aquila Red's. They're a different formula, and they feel different than the regular Aquilas (less "sticky") It might be what you're looking for.

iamesperambient
07-09-2014, 08:43 AM
I like living waters custom tenor dGBE on my tenor. Don't know if you are looking for something that mellow but if I want something brighter, I play my concert or soprano.

nah i want something more mellow.
I actually have living water dGBE on my baritone and i love it.
I was considering trying them on my tenor but i still want that C tuned
uke voice on my tenor or maybe bflat as dirk suggests.

The only reason why i took off the oasis so fast was i was actually worried the bridge was going to fly off
it was that much tension it seemed dangerously high. I guess i'll try the south coast if i dont like them i
do have silkguts i can throw on which should be the same or similar to nylguts anyway.

Just from reading here i have it in my head if its a laminate you can only use aquila :/ maybe i'm reading into it too much

iamesperambient
07-09-2014, 08:44 AM
If you're looking for something mellower, maybe try the Aquila Red's. They're a different formula, and they feel different than the regular Aquilas (less "sticky") It might be what you're looking for.

i had reds on my epi les paul concert which i no longer own.
I thougth they really brought out the volume and sounded good
however the tone is very metallic and thats not really the tone i'm
after for this instrument. I did like them on the les paul though.

kohanmike
07-09-2014, 10:28 AM
I recently changed out the Aquilas on a couple of my ukes, solid and laminate, to Worth CT and BT which are a bit thinner and easier for me to press, and I find the Worth to be a little warmer. I ordered the 63" to get two sets in a pack.

iamesperambient
07-09-2014, 10:43 AM
I recently changed out the Aquilas on a couple of my ukes, solid and laminate, to Worth CT and BT which are a bit thinner and easier for me to press, and I find the Worth to be a little warmer. I ordered the 63" to get two sets in a pack.

thanks for the tip worth browns are actually next on the list to try. I'll put on the south coast see how it goes leave them for a week or 2 than im going to give worth browns a try, i may end up full circle back to aquila but i guess its worth trying out.

DownUpDave
07-09-2014, 10:49 AM
I recently changed out the Aquilas on a couple of my ukes, solid and laminate, to Worth CT and BT which are a bit thinner and easier for me to press, and I find the Worth to be a little warmer. I ordered the 63" to get two sets in a pack.

I have come to the firm conclusion that there are no firm conclusions when it comes to strings. Kohanmike feels Worth CT and BT are easier to press than Aquilas, I find the exact opposite. Another poster said try Aquila Reds because he found them warm, I find them bright. It is all so personal that your own experiment on your own ukes is the only valid point of view.

On topic regarding string chances on laminates, it will change the sound just as you have found out on your other uke. Either dive in head first and change strings till you find the unicorn or stick with the Aquilas that you already like.

iamesperambient
07-09-2014, 10:52 AM
I have come to the firm conclusion that there are no firm conclusions when it comes to strings. Kohanmike feels Worth CT and BT are easier to press than Aquilas, I find the exact opposite. Another poster said try Aquila Reds because he found them warm, I find them bright. It is all so personal that your own experiment on your own ukes is the only valid point of view.

On topic regarding string chances on laminates, it will change the sound just as you have found out on your other uke. Either dive in head first and change strings till you find the unicorn or stick with the Aquilas that you already like.

i agree on aquila reds i find them metallic and overly bright even more than nylguts.
thanks for the tip ill dive right in i think i have those silkguts to fall back on anyway
if anything doesn't sound good.

DownUpDave
07-09-2014, 11:07 AM
i agree on aquila reds i find them metallic and overly bright even more than nylguts.
thanks for the tip ill dive right in i think i have those silkguts to fall back on anyway
if anything doesn't sound good.

Save the strings you take off. I never cut them off, just unwind them. You can even leave the knot tied and just slip the long end out. Because they stretch and with the wraps there is always enough length to put them back on. This way you are not wasting anything, just stock piling lightly used strings.

This should go with out saying but make sure you label them as they come off. Hard to tell which string is what after the fact.

iamesperambient
07-09-2014, 11:14 AM
Save the strings you take off. I never cut them off, just unwind them. You can even leave the knot tied and just slip the long end out. Because they stretch and with the wraps there is always enough length to put them back on. This way you are not wasting anything, just stock piling lightly used strings.

This should go with out saying but make sure you label them as they come off. Hard to tell which string is what after the fact.

good idea maybe i will take them off and put them in the pack of the other sizes in the pack labeled for each string so i know which one is which
i think ill try that. thanks!

Mattyukaholic
07-09-2014, 11:59 AM
Couldn't agree more. I'm sometimes lazy with my labelling and often end up with a messy array of used strings in various boxes - often the boxes/packets not even matching the string type.

I'm my own worse enemy. It used to be the same with my CD collection haha!

Nickie
07-09-2014, 01:11 PM
All of my concert lams have sounded and played great with Aquilas. However, my lam soprano sounds just as bad with them as it did with the black strings I took off. It's plinky and tinny sounding. ARGH! Any suggestions?

iamesperambient
07-09-2014, 01:39 PM
All of my concert lams have sounded and played great with Aquilas. However, my lam soprano sounds just as bad with them as it did with the black strings I took off. It's plinky and tinny sounding. ARGH! Any suggestions?

i agree aquilas sound too but they make all lam ukes kind of sound the same (in my opinion) from what i have noticed.
Just hoping to find a slight variation with different strings, I will see what happens when i re-string with south coast.

Pundabaya
07-10-2014, 06:01 AM
You might try LaBella Uke-Pro strings, they're like a half-way house between Nylgut and Fluorocarbon.

actadh
07-10-2014, 07:28 AM
If you're looking for something mellower, maybe try the Aquila Red's. They're a different formula, and they feel different than the regular Aquilas (less "sticky") It might be what you're looking for.

I agree with Aquila Reds. Can only speak for the soprano version, but it is a tad thinner than the soprano Nygut. It was everything I liked in the Nylgut, but a better feel and a slightly more traditional/ukulele sound, if that makes sense.

iamesperambient
07-10-2014, 07:35 AM
I agree with Aquila Reds. Can only speak for the soprano version, but it is a tad thinner than the soprano Nygut. It was everything I liked in the Nylgut, but a better feel and a slightly more traditional/ukulele sound, if that makes sense.

I saw reds as very bright and metallic and almost makes your uke sound like a resonator. I even believe mimmo himself described them that way. I did not find them mellow what so ever. Not bad strings just not what i'm looking for on a tenor.

TheCraftedCow
07-10-2014, 08:34 PM
consider a simple modification to your laminated instrument Drill small holes straight down from in front of the bridge part which has the strings tying back to the . It really makes a difference in the sound , and you need not be concerned about the top delaminating and scattering pieces of a bridge across the window to the left.

kdmccullum
07-11-2014, 04:51 AM
I've been slowing working through various strings on my laminates. Aquila strings seem to be standard on everything now and have been the rage for some time. But between Aquila and D'Addario Nyltech I prefer Nyltech. The difference is small but I do notice it. My long neck soprano has those on it right now.

On my tenor I just bought some classic guitar strings that are the proper size and I was pleasantly surprised. T2s by D'Addario didn't last very long. I didn't like them. Worth clears were nice on the solid zebra wood soprano but that uke is no longer with me.

Strings are fairly inexpensive. Each brand/type will have small differences. It takes time to find what works best. I'm not sure I have arrived at the perfect strings yet but it's been fun to experiment. The right combination can be different for every uke. Trust your ears and go with what sounds good to you. After all, you are the one that will hear the combination most of the time.

Kurt

Booli
07-11-2014, 07:45 AM
Save the strings you take off. I never cut them off, just unwind them. You can even leave the knot tied and just slip the long end out. Because they stretch and with the wraps there is always enough length to put them back on. This way you are not wasting anything, just stock piling lightly used strings.

This should go with out saying but make sure you label them as they come off. Hard to tell which string is what after the fact.

@DownUpDave: This is a good idea and what I do when testing strings. When i take them off, they go back into the little bags they came in, the right one for each string (you DO save the packaging dont you?)

@iamesper: NONE of the strings are EVER wasted unless you cut them too short (very bad) or if they have been tuned too high (like UP to BEG#C on a tenor) and therefore got a real good stretch, they MIGHT be too floppy for C6 tuning on anything smaller than a tenor.

If you are not in love with the strings after a week, gently take them off, put them away neatly in the package, and save them for next time. I have been keeping a log in a notebook of what strings I like (or not) on which instrument.

If you no longer have the packages and if you take the strings off, one at a time, and use a piece of masking tape at the very end that you fit to the tuning peg, and write on it G,C,E, or A, and then coil it up, and do this for each string, then you can put them into a regular postal letter envelope, and write on it what the strings were, what uke you put them on with the date and yes/no or something. I keep everything in a large shoe box. I have photos in that thread I linked below, but my collection has grown significantly from what was shown there like 5 months ago....

Unless you have digital calipers or a micrometer, or AMAZING vision that you can discern widths smaller than the ruler lines of half-milimeter or thousandths, you will probably NOT be able to tell the strings apart with your naked eye, so LABEL them when you take them off, one at a time.

Also, if immediately restringing, you want to remove and replace the strings one at a time, and NOT take off ALL the strings at once. If you remove all the strings, then the tension on the neck is gone and the wood goes slack, and after you fully restring and tune to pitch, you have to really wait about 1 day for the wood of the neck and the soundboard to react and get comfortable under the full force of the string tension at pitch. This is also affected by your relative humidity and room temp. Your intonation will not be accurate until everything settles.

Also with a solid top, if you have low humidity and the wood is too dry, and you take off all the strings, and let it sit naked for a few hours, all the wood is relaxed, and then when you restring all at once, you are pulling the wood of the neck and the top with lots of tension all at once, and of the wood is too dry you can cause the neck to twist and cracks in the top, especially between the bridge and sound hole.

Trust me on this.

In the past 6 months, I have done over 100 string changes, and I've seen things that most folks would never even think about.

(For the sake of brevity I will not list everything I tested in this post, but ) I have gone through ALL of the Worth Clear sets AND ALL of the Worth Brown sets, and now am testing the Aquila REDS. So Far the Worth CL and BL are the ones I like the most for all, with Martin M600/M620 being a close second.

I just placed an order with stringsbymail for the Worth CL and BL strings, as well as the Aquila REDS concert re-entrant set - for me, these are keepers so far,.

When I am done testing these, I am doing SouthCoast next, then Living Waters, and then Fremont Blacklines and then ORCAS.

I have a feeling when it is all done, I am just going to end up buying four 25 yards spools of Seaguars fishing leader as per the chart that John (OldePhart) worked out a while back to duplicate the Worth CL set. Buying the Seaguars 25 yd spools, you get 40 sets of strings for about $2.15 per set (for tenor scale) and this will vary (for more sets on shorter scale) if you put them on other scale lengths. This is alot cheaper than what comes out to about $6.50 per set of Worths if you buy them as 'ukulele strings'....

It has become both an obsession and hobby to find the best strings that *I* like for each of my 10 ukes.

There was a really great thread back in February about all this, with LOTS of folks sharing their process and the strings they liked on different instruments - you would do yourself a great service if you spent the time to go through that entire thread

- see here: http://forum.ukuleleunderground.com/showthread.php?93141-It-s-like-UAS-only-worse-SCO

I have ruled out Aquila Nylgut/SuperNylgut and basically ANYTHING/everything Nylon that I've tried (9 different brands) as strings that I would never use on any of my current stable of 10 ukuleles. I dont like the sound, the feel, or both depending upon the strings.

So, check out that link (that thread has 104 posts across 6 pages that I see) so you will be reading a while.....

Hope this helps.

-Booli :)

iamesperambient
07-11-2014, 07:55 AM
@DownUpDave: This is a good idea and what I do when testing strings. When i take them off, they go back into the little bags they came in, the right one for each string (you DO save the packaging dont you?)

@iamesper: NONE of the strings are EVER wasted unless you cut them too short (very bad) or if they have been tuned too high (like UP to BEG#C on a tenor) and therefore got a real good stretch, they MIGHT be too floppy for C6 tuning on anything smaller than a tenor.

If you are not in love with the strings after a week, gently take them off, put them away neatly in the package, and save them for next time. I have been keeping a log in a notebook of what strings I like (or not) on which instrument.

If you no longer have the packages and if you take the strings off, one at a time, and use a piece of masking tape at the very end that you fit to the tuning peg, and write on it G,C,E, or A, and then coil it up, and do this for each string, then you can put them into a regular postal letter envelope, and write on it what the strings were, what uke you put them on with the date and yes/no or something. I keep everything in a large shoe box. I have photos in that thread I linked below, but my collection has grown significantly from what was shown there like 5 months ago....

Unless you have digital calipers or a micrometer, or AMAZING vision that you can discern widths smaller than the ruler lines of half-milimeter or thousandths, you will probably NOT be able to tell the strings apart with your naked eye, so LABEL them when you take them off, one at a time.

Also, if immediately restringing, you want to remove and replace the strings one at a time, and NOT take off ALL the strings at once. If you remove all the strings, then the tension on the neck is gone and the wood goes slack, and after you fully restring and tune to pitch, you have to really wait about 1 day for the wood of the neck and the soundboard to react and get comfortable under the full force of the string tension at pitch. This is also affected by your relative humidity and room temp. Your intonation will not be accurate until everything settles.

Also with a solid top, if you have low humidity and the wood is too dry, and you take off all the strings, and let it sit naked for a few hours, all the wood is relaxed, and then when you restring all at once, you are pulling the wood of the neck and the top with lots of tension all at once, and of the wood is too dry you can cause the neck to twist and cracks in the top, especially between the bridge and sound hole.

Trust me on this.

In the past 6 months, I have done over 100 string changes, and I've seen things that most folks would never even think about.

(For the sake of brevity I will not list everything I tested in this post, but ) I have gone through ALL of the Worth Clear sets AND ALL of the Worth Brown sets, and now am testing the Aquila REDS. So Far the Worth CL and BL are the ones I like the most for all, with Martin M600/M620 being a close second.

I just placed an order with stringsbymail for the Worth CL and BL strings, as well as the Aquila REDS concert re-entrant set - for me, these are keepers so far,.

When I am done testing these, I am doing SouthCoast next, then Living Waters, and then Fremont Blacklines and then ORCAS.

I have a feeling when it is all done, I am just going to end up buying four 25 yards spools of Seaguars fishing leader as per the chart that John (OldePhart) worked out a while back to duplicate the Worth CL set. Buying the Seaguars 25 yd spools, you get 40 sets of strings for about $2.15 per set (for tenor scale) and this will vary (for more sets on shorter scale) if you put them on other scale lengths. This is alot cheaper than what comes out to about $6.50 per set of Worths if you buy them as 'ukulele strings'....

It has become both an obsession and hobby to find the best strings that *I* like for each of my 10 ukes.

There was a really great thread back in February about all this, with LOTS of folks sharing their process and the strings they liked on different instruments - you would do yourself a great service if you spent the time to go through that entire thread

- see here: http://forum.ukuleleunderground.com/showthread.php?93141-It-s-like-UAS-only-worse-SCO

I have ruled out Aquila Nylgut/SuperNylgut and basically ANYTHING/everything Nylon that I've tried (9 different brands) as strings that I would never use on any of my current stable of 10 ukuleles. I dont like the sound, the feel, or both depending upon the strings.

So, check out that link (that thread has 104 posts across 6 pages that I see) so you will be reading a while.....

Hope this helps.

-Booli :)

sounds cool! thanks for the advice. I have a few more to test out
before i can make a final opinion so i won't see which is good or bad yet
being i have not tried enough to make a decision yet, i still say on my tenor
between aquila or oasis i prefer aquila. Trying out more in the coming weeks.

iamesperambient
07-11-2014, 08:34 AM
consider a simple modification to your laminated instrument Drill small holes straight down from in front of the bridge part which has the strings tying back to the . It really makes a difference in the sound , and you need not be concerned about the top delaminating and scattering pieces of a bridge across the window to the left.

not sure if you are serious here i'm assuming this is some kind of attempt at humor (and if its not i apologize)
but there is not a snowball's chance in hell i'm going to drill a hole in my uke.

Hawkshaw
07-11-2014, 09:30 AM
Just play it!

iamesperambient
07-11-2014, 09:39 AM
Just play it!

theres more to just playing finding the right sound colors and tones
that suit ones ears is very important especially when playing specific styles
of music.

Booli
07-11-2014, 09:53 AM
theres more to just playing finding the right sound colors and tones
that suit ones ears is very important especially when playing specific styles
of music.

My thoughts exactly.

The right strings can make all the difference in the world. Some folks do not have acute enough hearing perception to tell the difference, and other folks maybe just dont care, but to the rest of us, it's like a form of O.C.D. where if it's not 'right', then it's just all 'wrong'.

Each person will love and/or dislike different strings, there is no absolute, it's what YOU want your instrument to sound like. :)

-Booli

P.S.: For example, on my Koa tenor Fluke, the difference betw Aquila Nylgut, Martin M620, Worth Browns BT-LG and Aquila RED low-g, is quite large. From one string set to the next, each one makes the instrument sound AND feel very different. I will not get into all the description of how each string set sounds and feels (see my link in a previous post to this thread for that), but to MY ears and fingers, they are VERY different from each other.

iamesperambient
07-11-2014, 09:55 AM
My thoughts exactly.

The right strings can make all the difference in the world. Some folks do not have acute enough hearing perception to tell the difference, and other folks maybe just dont care, but to the rest of us, it's like a form of O.C.D. where if it's not 'right', then it's just all 'wrong'.

Each person will love and/or dislike different strings, there is no absolute, it's what YOU want your instrument to sound like. :)

-Booli

agree because i have such a detailed sense of hearing for tones/textures (i make ambient music so i more design
sound textures than melodies) its def an OCD thing for me. I'll find the right set for my tenor i will!

Booli
07-11-2014, 10:14 AM
agree because i have such a detailed sense of hearing for tones/textures (i make ambient music so i more design
sound textures than melodies) its def an OCD thing for me. I'll find the right set for my tenor i will!

Have you tried the Worth Browns Tenor Low-g, called 'BT-LG'?

I find the tension is just right on the low-g, and you get the same strings with a high-g too, see here:

http://worthc.to/english/w_strings.html (scroll down)

I find that the Worth Browns have about 4x MORE sustain than the Aquila Nylgut/SuperNylgut and 3x more sustain than the Martin M620s.

While ALSO having pleasing overtones that are complex, but not saturated, and very crisp and bell-like, yet with a subtle warmth and sweetness to the tone, this perception is on both my Kala KA-T laminate mahogany tenor, and Koa tenor Fluke.

Since you mention your love of your baritone often (but I dont remember if you have an acoustic bari, in addition to your konablaster), you might try their baritone strings, or the BF (FAT) or BS (STRONG) sets which are similar to the baritone sets (check the linked page above)....

-Booli

iamesperambient
07-11-2014, 12:20 PM
Have you tried the Worth Browns Tenor Low-g, called 'BT-LG'?

I find the tension is just right on the low-g, and you get the same strings with a high-g too, see here:

http://worthc.to/english/w_strings.html (scroll down)

I find that the Worth Browns have about 4x MORE sustain than the Aquila Nylgut/SuperNylgut and 3x more sustain than the Martin M620s.

While ALSO having pleasing overtones that are complex, but not saturated, and very crisp and bell-like, yet with a subtle warmth and sweetness to the tone, this perception is on both my Kala KA-T laminate mahogany tenor, and Koa tenor Fluke.

Since you mention your love of your baritone often (but I dont remember if you have an acoustic bari, in addition to your konablaster), you might try their baritone strings, or the BF (FAT) or BS (STRONG) sets which are similar to the baritone sets (check the linked page above)....

-Booli


hey thanks for the tip. Actually for my baritone i already found the perfect string living water re-entrant G (high D) their perfect. I'm actually now trying to find the perfect string for my tenor.

Worth browns are next on my list. I actually have a set of oasis low G warm's which im going to try just to see if i even like a low G set up.
Also the guy from oasis thinks I have have gotten a mistake set and was kind enough to send me these new ones I will give them a try before i make a full evaluation on them.

Worth brown though should be the last stop for me before i make a decision.

Booli
07-11-2014, 05:33 PM
hey thanks for the tip. ...

Worth browns are next on my list. ...

Worth brown though should be the last stop for me before i make a decision.

Remember that with the Worth Browns, there are actually 12 different sets of strings they sell that you could try.

http://worthc.to/english/w_strings.html

The main difference across all of the them are the gauges of the outer strings, i.e., the G and A strings, aside from that, on most of their sets the C and E strings are the same, i.e., 0.0291" for the C string and 0.0260" for the E string.

I have found that even the BT-LG strings have decent tensions still if you like to tune DOWN from GCEA to something else. I have not tried tuning them higher than ADF#B (D6) tuning since at that pitch, the 'A' string (i.e., 1st string as in closest to the floor) gets so taught that it scares me and it is near impossible to bend the string.

Right now I actually have my Kala Tenor tuned as a baritone DGBE (Oh the horrors - purists will rage -tenor as baritone - OH NOs) and strung with the Worth Browns (BT-LG) trebles, as in the C-E-A strings and the Fremont wound polished squeakless low G and it is very nice to play, requiring little pressure to fret the strings and the sustain goes forever.

Despite what others may think, the strings are NOT too floppy to be detuned by finger pressure as the Worth Browns have higher tension than most at this scale it seems. Chords sound fine, and the intonation is NOT way off as one might expect (based upon previous discussions here in the forum about tuning a Guitalele down to EADGBE from ADGCEA).

It's been set up like this for about 2 weeks and is stable. This will tide me over until I get get a decent baritone.

-Booli

iamesperambient
07-11-2014, 06:24 PM
Remember that with the Worth Browns, there are actually 12 different sets of strings they sell that you could try.

http://worthc.to/english/w_strings.html

The main difference across all of the them are the gauges of the outer strings, i.e., the G and A strings, aside from that, on most of their sets the C and E strings are the same, i.e., 0.0291" for the C string and 0.0260" for the E string.

I have found that even the BT-LG strings have decent tensions still if you like to tune DOWN from GCEA to something else. I have not tried tuning them higher than ADF#B (D6) tuning since at that pitch, the 'A' string (i.e., 1st string as in closest to the floor) gets so taught that it scares me and it is near impossible to bend the string.

Right now I actually have my Kala Tenor tuned as a baritone DGBE (Oh the horrors - purists will rage -tenor as baritone - OH NOs) and strung with the Worth Browns (BT-LG) trebles, as in the C-E-A strings and the Fremont wound polished squeakless low G and it is very nice to play, requiring little pressure to fret the strings and the sustain goes forever.

Despite what others may think, the strings are NOT too floppy to be detuned by finger pressure as the Worth Browns have higher tension than most at this scale it seems. Chords sound fine, and the intonation is NOT way off as one might expect (based upon previous discussions here in the forum about tuning a Guitalele down to EADGBE from ADGCEA).

It's been set up like this for about 2 weeks and is stable. This will tide me over until I get get a decent baritone.

-Booli

sounds good ill do some research soon on which worth brown strings i want to try out first.