Martin C1K satin finish...

UkerDanno

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I posted this on the Tech Support forum and Luthiers lounge and got no response...

I've had my C1K for over a year and the first couple days I had it, I played a couple hours at a club meeting, then an hour the next day at a concert. It was the end of April in Arizona and it was warm. My forearm was a little sweaty and the grain on the top raised up. After taking it to an authorized Martin Luthier, they refinished the top under warranty and it has been fine until recently. Well, it's warm again and my sweaty forearm has caused the grain to raise again. What kind of finish can I put on there to prevent this problem? Anybody???

I'm not in the area of the first luthier at the moment. I wonder if Martin will refinish again? Pictures don't really show the problem area.
but, here's one anyway...
IMG_1429.jpg
 
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When wood becomes wet, the grain expands (swells) and rises. It normally returns to it's previous state when it drys out.
 
That's great to know that Martin has a warranty on their C1K, T1K, OXK, S1 models made in Mexico. I never knew that. Cool!

Petey
 
I don't know about another top coat, but I do know that some people put a sleeve on their arm to protect the finish.
 
Can you sweat less or play in a cooler spot? Eventually, salt will work into the wood.

Sell now to someone in Wisconsin and buy full gloss finish ukulele, Danno. I'm not joking.
 
I'd return it. A company like Martin should not only know about this problem, they should be eager to remedy it.
 
What you need to prevent this is a thicker more protective top coat. Your model has a very sparse satin top coat that appears non existant. That is not a put down as I like that look. You could get some Tru Oil and do the work yourself or have a professional apply a laquer based satin finish. You could just do the top if you wanted to. This is just simple wood working, a furniture refinisher could do it.

Here is another thought, clear soft vinyl self adhesive pick guards for acoustic guitars. Just cut it to size and stick it on, non adhesive so peels right off. It should create the moisture barrier you need
 
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What you need to prevent this is a thicker more protective top coat. Your model has a very sparse satin top coat that appears non existant. That is not a put down as I like that look. You could get some Tru Oil and do the work yourself or have a professional apply a laquer based satin finish. You could just do the top if you wanted to. This is just simple wood working, a furniture refinisher could do it.

Here is another thought, clear soft vinyl self adhesive pick guards for acoustic guitars. Just cut it to size and stick it on, non adhesive so peels right off. It should create the moisture barrier you need

I'm not sure about how well a new top coat like TruOil would react or adhere to the finish on the Martin. The OP might consider using a wax. I've used Mohawk Paste Wax, Blue Label.
 
I'm not sure about how well a new top coat like TruOil would react or adhere to the finish on the Martin. The OP might consider using a wax. I've used Mohawk Paste Wax, Blue Label.

Yea I agree about the Tru Oil, just threw the name that out there, quickly, a poly finish but then you are into some work. I like yoir idea about the wax, easy and effective
 
I'd return it. A company like Martin should not only know about this problem, they should be eager to remedy it.

This is not a defect in the instrument. When I play on stage, I wear long sleeves and roll them up to a point below the elbows. Any contact with the instrument is protected by the shirt. I might add that I don't sweat much, but, I have oily skin (except my hands, they are very dry). I am protecting the instruments from skin oils, not perspiration.
 
Polyurethane finishes are very durable and used quite often on inexpensive instruments for that reason. Putting them over a satin finish is a bad idea, though, unless you prep the instrument properly.
 
thanks for the ideas...I might try the wax. I have heard of another wax, but can't remember the name of it. I'll be near a couple music stores tomorrow and one is a Martin Service Center, I'll check in with them.
 
So, I stopped by Victor Guitar in Denver yesterday, they are a Martin Service Center. The guy said he would just not worry about it. I could wax it, but he thought the sweat would make the wax ugly. He offered to call Martin and see what they say if I could come back during the week, it's kind of a hassle 45+/- min. drive through traffic to get there, so I'll have to think about it. He did have a very nice handmade Tenor koa uke that felt and sounded beautiful for $825, which seemed like a very good price.
emery.jpg
 
So, I stopped by Victor Guitar in Denver yesterday, they are a Martin Service Center. The guy said he would just not worry about it. I could wax it, but he thought the sweat would make the wax ugly. He offered to call Martin and see what they say if I could come back during the week, it's kind of a hassle 45+/- min. drive through traffic to get there, so I'll have to think about it. He did have a very nice handmade Tenor koa uke that felt and sounded beautiful for $825, which seemed like a very good price.
View attachment 69170

Your sweat may make the wax look funky, but it's very easy to touch up or redo the wax. I don't think it would hurt to give it a try. If it were me, I'd go for the sleeve idea first, and if that was too uncomfortable, the wax.
 
I'm not very familiar with finishing a uke, but I remember how much emphasis we placed on "de-whiskering" the wood when finishing/refinishing gun stocks. We basically sprayed the wood with plain water or alcohol/water mix to "raise the grain", let dry, fine sand, and repeat until the grain no longer stood up. We were then ready for stain/sealer,finish, etc. Perhaps the Mexican Martins were not "prepped" properly before finishing?
 
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