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hahahhaha- not quite 3000 year old :) but thanks :)

Hi, Does anyone have an Ancient Sitka Tenor top (the 3000 year old stuff from Alaska Specialty woods) to sell? I'd need a usable 12.75" long x 9.5" wide. (I'd even consider a 3 or 4 piece top) Thanks, Beau

hahah- Always learning!

Thanks everyone. Lutherie is a tricky business to be in in such a modern age where things crafted by hand are often over looked due to lack of appreciation and affordability. We all try to get better and wiser with age in our craft (and as a person) and after 20 years I feel like i've only...

A straight saddle slotting jig that works really well. (This jig is an evolution of Aaron Oya's jig.) Please consider subscribing to my youtube channel if you enjoy Lutherie content :)- Thanks

In short, less force is exerted on the saddle by the strings the lower the action is which compromises how much "power" from the strings is driving the top... and by that I really mean the break angle of the strings behind the saddle. Note 1- You can have a high action and low saddle (with no...

Tusq is good for adding clarity/trebles to a tone. Bone is a better choice for already bright ukes or guitars. Wood (maple or ebony)- I've never used either for my instruments so can't comment other then to say that violins (and family like cellos etc) use ebony for nuts and maple for bridges...

If Classical guitar makers have a wolf note on a scale, they just stick some blue tack (poster putty) on the top (ie adding mass) until the top isn't resonating exactly on a note, adding putty as necessary to do that. Then they either stick that putty inside forever or glue a similar amount...

I don't understand your logic in saying a resonate instrument will always have dead spot(s). A top and body resonate frequencies should be built off the scaled note, which stops this.

Spruce top lightly (appropriately) braced, with a stiff body (mostly sides) of any wood.

I've learnt while doing videos that a youtube video is as long as it needs to be, and as short as it can be. It may sound like a silly answer but its true.

I use these inserts- 1/4"-20 E-Z LOK Threaded insert It also comes in a kit which is very handy- Installation Kit I use these bolts (1 in a uke, two on guitars)- 1/4"-20 Connector Bolts I buy the silver or brass ones as then you can write on the head which instrument they go on (because you will...

Here is an an older video of mine- You may pick up some tips but I ca glue the insert about 19 mins in. Also, in this video the insert it more proud than i usually do. I usually get it pretty flush (or even inbed it) and add the ca carefully to the side and it wicks itself in. Add the thin ca...

Post a pic of the sides you have and ill look at what i have

What Kekani said

I buy typical instrument sides and sand the outer layer to .070". I buy the 2nd (middle) and 3rd (inner) layers pre sanded to .065". LMI sell laminating sides (guitar length) which i use on rosewood guitars. I've done this video on how i laminate the cut pieces but now i use 3 layers- outer is...

OR....just use one (or 2) metal bolt(s). No matter how hard i try to line the holes up, I get a mismatch so have to elongate the bolt hole into an egg shape so the top of the neck is on the same plane as the top of the upper bout. Also, Bolts are traditional method too. Or use a large nail like...

Corrugation (can) happens regardless of wood thickness in my experience. Once the body is boxed up: 1- Cut the binding channel before sanding the sides flat. 2- Sand sides flat. 3- Cut binding channel again. I laminate my sides (.060" + 0.70") so I don't have to deal with it anymore.

T J Thompson. He restores all the old Martins. He has various sizes of bar frets

yep- i have 3. I should have included good 6" rulers as i have 4 of them and use them all