easing an edge

Swamp Yankee

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I have an inexpensive but all solid mahogany concert with uncomfortably sharp edges on the body. I love playing it but the edge digs into my arm.

I'm thinking of rounding over the edges slightly all around the body but I have some concerns:

Should I use a dremel router? Or is this a hand tool job?

Given a satin open pore finish, what would likely be the best way to touch up the finish on the newly cut edges?

I was thinking of carefully masking the uke leaving only the cut surfaces exposed, then finishing the edges with a high gloss opaque black epoxy finish of some sort.

Thoughts?
 
I would say do it by hand and carefully sand around with some sandpaper wrapped around your finger so that it will conform to the corner. Don't use an aggressive grit but start at about 180 or 240 and when your satisfied , work up to 320 or maybe 400 and then it's ready to touch up.
Without knowing what finish it has, I would try shellac, as it is compatible with most finishes. 3 or 4 wipes maybe, then buff the edges only with a little bit of wax or oil.
I am no expert but this is what I would do if it were mine.
I'm sure others will chip in with their own ideas.
 
I would say do it by hand and carefully sand around with some sandpaper wrapped around your finger so that it will conform to the corner. Don't use an aggressive grit but start at about 180 or 240 and when your satisfied , work up to 320 or maybe 400 and then it's ready to touch up.
Without knowing what finish it has, I would try shellac, as it is compatible with most finishes. 3 or 4 wipes maybe, then buff the edges only with a little bit of wax or oil.
I am no expert but this is what I would do if it were mine.
I'm sure others will chip in with their own ideas.

Makes sense, especially if I'm looking to have minimal impact on the uke. That's where I am though... do as little as possible, or go bigger and make it a design element.
 
I sanded the edge of an inexpensive laminate using fine sandpaper and a light touch. it doesn't take much to get that sharp edge off. On my Islander with a very light satin finish I didn't have to touch it up, you couldn't tell I even sanded it. I could feel the difference though.

You also don't have to do the whole uke, just where it bothers you.
 
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I would say, do what mikeyb2 said. And before you put the shellac on, rub on some black ink, Chinese calligraphy ink, or regular fountain pen ink, wiping off the excess. Let dry, coat with shellac, voila - design element! The more consistent your rounding over, the better it'll look, because of the high contrast.....

I have played around with ink as a stain on wood some, and have come up with good results.

Michael.
 
I sanded the edge of an inexpensive laminate using fine sandpaper and a light touch. it doesn't take much to get that sharp edge off. On my Islander with a very light satin finish I didn't have to touch it up, you couldn't tell I even sanded it. I could feel the difference though.

You also don't have to do the whole uke, just where it bothers you.

Ah, but it bothers me everywhere :D
 
I would say, do what mikeyb2 said. And before you put the shellac on, rub on some black ink, Chinese calligraphy ink, or regular fountain pen ink, wiping off the excess. Let dry, coat with shellac, voila - design element! The more consistent your rounding over, the better it'll look, because of the high contrast.....

I have played around with ink as a stain on wood some, and have come up with good results.

Michael.

Do you have a problem with the ink soaking into the wood beyond where you want it to go? I'd be worried, especially with end grain, that the black ink would creep into the wood beyond the bevelled area. That's why I was thinking about a high gloss opaque black finish for the bevel.
 
Three things:

1. Use a fairly fine sandpaper and go slowly - you don't need to sand much to soften the edge.

2. Don't wrap it round your finger, or you will sand away more of the finish on top/back and sides than you want to, and unevenly too. Use a hard rubber block - a pencil eraser is fine.

3. Don't apply paint or stain unless you are an experienced artist, as you won't manage an even line.

To finish, wipe on a coat of clear shellac (trying to hit only the sanded part), let it dry, then sand it very lightly, as it will feel rough to the touch. Just stroke it until it feels smooth. Repeat, gently sanding again if it feels rough after drying. Keep going until you like the effect.

Alternatively use something like Tru-Oil, following the instructions. Shellac won't damage any finish except French Polish though.

When you're done you might see witness lines where your new finish overlaps the old. You can polish these out with automotive rubbing compound (very gently if the original finish is thin).

Or, as this is an inexpensive uke, just use a good quality wax and renew it from time to time if it wears off. Wax will make the bit you sanded look less shiny than the rest, but if you sand carefully you'll only sand away a small part of the edge and this will probably not be noticeable. I think wax would probably be my choice here, definitely the least effort.
 
Three things:

1. Use a fairly fine sandpaper and go slowly - you don't need to sand much to soften the edge.

2. Don't wrap it round your finger, or you will sand away more of the finish on top/back and sides than you want to, and unevenly too. Use a hard rubber block - a pencil eraser is fine.

3. Don't apply paint or stain unless you are an experienced artist, as you won't manage an even line.

To finish, wipe on a coat of clear shellac (trying to hit only the sanded part), let it dry, then sand it very lightly, as it will feel rough to the touch. Just stroke it until it feels smooth. Repeat, gently sanding again if it feels rough after drying. Keep going until you like the effect.

Alternatively use something like Tru-Oil, following the instructions. Shellac won't damage any finish except French Polish though.

When you're done you might see witness lines where your new finish overlaps the old. You can polish these out with automotive rubbing compound (very gently if the original finish is thin).

Or, as this is an inexpensive uke, just use a good quality wax and renew it from time to time if it wears off. Wax will make the bit you sanded look less shiny than the rest, but if you sand carefully you'll only sand away a small part of the edge and this will probably not be noticeable. I think wax would probably be my choice here, definitely the least effort.

I was thinking of wax, too. I have used beeswax, well rubbed, to finish worked leather edging.

For sanding, I'd likely wrap the sandpaper around a piece of 1/2" dowel, maybe 6" long. My. thought is it might make it easier to keep a more consistent angle on the bevel.

If I did paint, I'd take extreme care to mask the bits I don't want painted. But the more I read of these comments, the more I'm leaning away from painting.

Thanks, all, for your suggestions so far!
 
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Try burnishing the edge first. A good hard rub with the shaft of a screwdriver in the problem areas may round it over enough so it reduces the cutting in sensation without wrecking the finish too much. If it doesn't work proceed with the sandpaper.
 
Try burnishing the edge first. A good hard rub with the shaft of a screwdriver in the problem areas may round it over enough so it reduces the cutting in sensation without wrecking the finish too much. If it doesn't work proceed with the sandpaper.

Another good idea. I've got some burnishers in bone, antler, and ivory, that I used working leather. Thanks!
 
Try burnishing the edge first. A good hard rub with the shaft of a screwdriver in the problem areas may round it over enough so it reduces the cutting in sensation without wrecking the finish too much. If it doesn't work proceed with the sandpaper.

I'm very pleased to report that burnishing the edges worked brilliantly! I had a small polished bone burnisher with an appropriately sized groove... rounded those edges over perfectly with a few minutes rubbing. And it seems not to have marred the finish at all.
Thanks for the tip!
 
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