Hi again, Ed, for what it's worth, here's a copy of some thoughts I offered a couple of years ago to fellow Forum member "Fuzzbass"...
"Fuzz, what I generally do with the frictions, as a preliminary, is to try to get a feel for an optimal "tightness" of the four adjustment screws. I'll take my screwdriver, slowly turn counter-clockwise to loosen each screw just to the threshold where the peg wants to start rotating backwards by itself, and then give the screw just enough of a clockwise turn to keep the peg from starting that backwards rotation; once you have all four pegs at that "almost-too-loose" threshold, go back and give each adjustment screw a little more of a clockwise turn, just to the point where it's clear that each peg will hold firmly. After a while, you'll be able to feel the sensation of having each adjustment screw tightened to approximately equal tightness. Sometimes I'll come back and re-check just to see if the resistance seems about equal on each screw when I apply the screwdriver; if one screw turns too easily compared to the others, I'll give it a little extra boost (tighter). You want the pegs to be a little tight (firm) to turn, but not ridiculously so. Then, as for doing your actual tuning of the uke, I've had good luck beginning with a slight "reverse" turn of the peg to flatten the note first, which seems to provide a nice pivot from which to then give it a "forward" turn to slowly bring it up to the desired pitch. Often the friction pegs can be tricky to fine-tune from their "resting" position, so that initial little pivot (with the slight flattening) comes in handy. It's definitely an inexact science, but after a while you'll kind of develop your own personal approach!"