Gotoh UPTs on a vintage Martin tenor

Blank Williams

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2019
Messages
417
Reaction score
532
Location
Detroit Area, MI
So this question may have been asked to death, but I couldn’t find the answer I need. I plan on installing UPTs on my newly acquired vintage Martin tenor, and I need to know if I should order the regular size or the long version? Thanks in advance!
 
Yup just measured the thickness and went with the longs. Those all black are really cool, I wish I saw them, I ordered the chrome and black button ones. Oh well.
 
I used Gotoh UPTL longs on my 1T IZ tenor. Here is the diagram. It says: UPT for head thickness 10 to 12 mm. UPTL for head thickness 11.5 to 13.5 mm.

UPT Tuner-Diagram.jpg
 
So this question may have been asked to death, but I couldn’t find the answer I need. I plan on installing UPTs on my newly acquired vintage Martin tenor, and I need to know if I should order the regular size or the long version? Thanks in advance!

To add to the previously posted good advice... :) ... Alternate using the reamer front to back, doing (approximately) equal numbers of turns each time, two or three twists. By doing so you'll be creating an similar diameter opening on both sides. If you only work one side, the opposite opening will have a slightly different diameter. While not normally an issue, if the whole on the backside is cut to large, the anti-rotation pin might come too close to the whole and won't be effective (or could split out the edge of the hole). Be patient, too.

I've used this technique on about a 8-9 replacement installations with great success.
 
Thank you all for the advice! They should be here Friday and I’m slightly nervous about installing them. I’ll definitely go real slow ha!
 
Thank you all for the advice! They should be here Friday and I’m slightly nervous about installing them. I’ll definitely go real slow ha!

If you aren't confident about installing them, take them and your uke to a luthier or repair shop and have them do it.

Or practice on a cheap uke or piece of wood that's the right thickness.

It's not very difficult, but it's exacting and easy to make a mistake if it's your first time.

I have no confidence in doing it myself. I would mess up at least one of the four holes.
 
This is why I posted here! I’m very grateful for all the advice. I still think I’ll attempt it myself but very, very carefully.
 
Here is a screen shot of the instructions for mounting the UPT-L tuners. I believe I found them online a couple of years ago.

Instructions.jpg

Don't know if they will enlarge enough to be legible. It appears not. If you're interested, I could email them, or you can just wait for your tuners.
 
As I recall, the front opening is supposed to have a smaller diameter than the back diameter, and the front post is much smaller than the rear housing, so definitely don't make both holes the same size. Check both for accuracy often.

To further supplement... as you alternate from side to side.... CHECK the fit as you go! The fit should be snug, but not so much that you have to press it in place. And, don't use the topside nut to press the machine into place... If you can't gently press it in with a finger, the hole is still too small! Gentle, deliberate, slow. Enjoy the moment grasshopper.
 
I’m still debating whether to do it myself or take it to a shop. I’m well aware of it’s value so I’m not going to do rush into anything. It’s not so much tuning with the originals, it’s more about string changes because I like to experiment, and those old tuners are sticky.
 
I’m still debating whether to do it myself or take it to a shop. I’m well aware of it’s value so I’m not going to do rush into anything. It’s not so much tuning with the originals, it’s more about string changes because I like to experiment, and those old tuners are sticky.

If tuning isn't an issue, it seems like friction tuners would serve you better. Easy to restring. Easy or at least easier to install. Most are cheaper, even if you get nice ones. And while I'm not one to concern myself too much with resale value, other than sound, it seems like the next most desired quality in vintage instruments would be "vintage-ness," wherein classic friction tuners would be preferable to modern planetary tuners. I've heard concerns about using friction tuners with higher tension ukes like tenors, but I've also seen plenty of tenors and baritones, even modern ones with them. As long as they're decent quality, I wouldn't think the tension would be a problem.

I prefer the ease and accuracy of planetary tuners, but if those things weren't an issue, I'd get friction for just about every uke I have. Light, classic, visually appealing.
 
I put UPT's on my old Martin style 0, had them installed professionally, didn't want anything to go wrong. They work great and hardly notice any weight difference.
IMG_20210210_104139505_HDR.jpg IMG_20210210_104117824_HDR.jpg
 
I’ve taken these types of old tuners apart in the past, I’m not completely going into this blind. Like I said I’m not rushing into anything, and I will assess the work and if it seems to daunting for me, I’ll take it to a pro. I sincerely appreciate all the feedback I’m getting. You guys all rock!
 
Tuners came a day early. All installed and good to go. Went slow and careful, really wasn’t difficult at all! They are 1000x better than the old tarnished tuners (which I’ll hang on to just in case).
 
Me too. It was surprisingly easy. The holes didn’t need to be reamed that much bigger so that helped. They’re great, in my perfect world all my ukes would have them.
 
Top Bottom