Hit a nail

Timbuck

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An almost new "Super fast cut" blade ruined by a thin panel pin in the wood that I didn't see ..The blade still cuts well but the finish is rough..I'm going to examin the blade and see if it's possible to dress out the damaged teeth or tooth.:)
 

AstroEd42

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That's too bad, a real bummer! I run a metal detector over any questionable wood I use. If you search " Woodworker's metal detector" on ebay, you'll find one by Cen-Tech for $39.
regards
Ed
 

Timbuck

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I tried to dress out the damage but to no avail..it started drifting all over the place afterwards...it is now in the bin ..I do have backup blades. but I didn't get my monies worth out of that one. :(
 
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Matt Clara

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I did something similar the other day, but worse, forgot to lift a toggle clamp out of the way and ran it into a new table saw blade. Worse because it wasn't hidden there in the wood, it was right in front of me on the sled! Blade is still cutting alright, but need a new toggle clamp holds down.
 

Timbuck

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I ordered a couple of new blades ..I really like this type of blade mainly because of the finish it produces, so I thought I'd do a little demo.
 

plunker

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Oh ok, a nail in the wood, thought is was a finger nail.
 

Matt Clara

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Had to look it up: only available from Tough Saws in the UK "Supertuff Fastcut" blades.

About the closest thing the US has got that I'm aware of is the woodslicer by Highland Woodworking.
 

Timbuck

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The tooth form of these blades are quite different.
The "Highland Wood worker Slicer" is a varying tooth pitch.
The Tuff Saws "Super Fast-cut" has a small tooth for clearing sawdust in between the main cutting teeth.

The Wood Slicer blade
179BF860-14F9-4002-9605-4248F528CBCF.jpeg
The Super Fastcut blade
36056CD9-964E-4FA6-A79E-A2EA99223D59.jpeg
 

John Colter

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Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the workshop - Daaa da; daaa da; daaa da.
 

John Colter

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I thought the lower pic. looked like shark fins among the waves. Overheated imagination I suppose.(y)
 

Doug

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I don't know if this would work or not Ken, but could you cut the bad part out and reweld the blade? Just wondering.
 

Timbuck

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I don't know if this would work or not Ken, but could you cut the bad part out and reweld the blade? Just wondering.
Then it wouldn't fit the bandsaw , would it ?
 
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Then it wouldn't fit the bandsaw , would it ?
Well it would work if you put a short section in from a used blade. Might not be a perfect answer, but would probably work fine. I sell bandsaw blade rolls and often make up blades for myself from left over roll end pieces.
 

Uke-alot

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Well it would work if you put a short section in from a used blade. Might not be a perfect answer, but would probably work fine. I sell bandsaw blade rolls and often make up blades for myself from left over roll end pieces.

There is some possible length variance in band saw blades. If it was just a handful of bad teeth, then cutting out the bad section and welding might work.

On the other hand, if one's time/labor is worth anything, it might be better to just buy a new blade. And not just the cutting/welding part. I bought a new blade that ended up being a half inch or inch smaller in diameter than it was supposed to be. It did fit on the saw and could be tensioned properly, but it needed a lot of turning of the tension crank to make the wheels close enough together so it could be installed, and then changing to a right-size blade required a bunch of turns in the other direction. This added a few minutes of annoying extra fooling around on every blade change. It turned out that this particular blade also had a less-than-optimal factory weld that resulted in it vibrating in use, and the vendor ended up sending me a new one free of charge.
 

Moore Bettah Ukuleles

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Ken
The tooth form of these blades are quite different.
The "Highland Wood worker Slicer" is a varying tooth pitch.
The Tuff Saws "Super Fast-cut" has a small tooth for clearing sawdust in between the main cutting teeth.

The Wood Slicer blade
View attachment 137238
The Super Fastcut blade
View attachment 137239
, I used to use carbide tipped blades but I have had occasional encounters like yours and the $160 price tag for those blades made them impractical. I’ve used Highland Woodworking’s Woodslicer blades for several years since and they are terrific!
 

Timbuck

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Anyway ... a couple of replacement blades cost me a bit less than £20 each inc postage ...and I've re-sawn enough slices to get me through next year...and the old blade has gone to the scrap man... nails staples and fencing wire and bullets are pretty common in fresh cut lumber ..and nails and screws in reclaimed wood ..I just have to accept that...but I'm going to get one of those metal detector thingies for the next batch. :)