one piece binding

[cathouse willy]

A question from a beginner re binding.Do you use a one piece length so the only joint is hidden under the neck or two pieces with a joint at the butt as well? I've tried the search function without much luck, help please.

 

[mikeyb2]

It depends on what binding you choose. Plastic is usually done in one piece and sold in long enough lengths to do so, but wooden binding might be more of a problem. Even if you get a long enough length, it would need to be pre-bent before fitting, which isn't impossible but maybe more problematic.
I personally join at both ends.

 

[sequoia]

Wood you have to do in two pieces joined at the neck and butt. Plastic or "tourtischell" is one piece. If first time binding go with tortoiseshell. Stuff is easy to bend. Fool proof. Easy pesy.

 

[cathouse willy]

Thanks for clearing that up for me,I have some black walnut and figured maple to choose from .The next step is to rout the binding shelf, just another task that has me losing sleep over.

 

[sequoia]

Not worth losing sleep over. There are many, many posts on the internet on doing it as well as many, many posts on UU. Do your homework. Then do it. Knowledge is power.

 

[BR Ukuleles]

Use the Walnut if this is your first go. It's more forgiving to use a dark color like that rather than figured maple where the joints are easily visible, and the figure usually means it will be suseptible to breaking if you aren't carefull. And timber bindings would always be joined at the butt as well as at the heel cap if doing the back as well. No one would want the stress of trying to bend timber perfectly all the way around an instrument.

 

[sequoia]

All this being said, you don't have to bind the instrument. On a first build you might consider just going unbound. There are plenty of examples of beautiful unbound instruments even from the pros. Pete Howlett has done some lovely unbound instruments. Maybe consider binding the next one. There is going to be a next one right?

 

[cathouse willy]

I like the look of the walnut and the grain is much easier than the maple I have. My heart is set on binding. I used this step as an excuse to buy a really nice little Bosch palm router. There is material for a second one (if the first one turns out allright) Right now I'm at the stage where the top is glued to the body,the neck is shaped and fitted to the body, the fret board is shaped and sawn for frets and the position markers are in place..My plan is to cut the binding shelf, glue the neck to the body,do the frets and then glue the fretboard to the neck It all gets a little murky the more I plan it. Oh well, I'll just carry on like I know what I'm doing.

 

[sequoia]

Consider this sequence of events: Put the frets into the fretboard, glue the fretboard to the neck, dress frets, route out the binding shelf, bind the body and then glue the neck to the body.

 

[resoman]

A lot of folks finish out the body and neck, then glue or screw the neck to the body. You will have to scrape the finish off the body and final fit the neck prior to gluing or screwing it on.
It's so much easier this way. If I were doing French polish I might attach the neck first, I've done it both ways with FP. I just don't do FP well so I avoid it if I can.

 

[cathouse willy]

I'm working from a set of Georgia Luthier baritone plans that call for a mortise and tenon joint screwed and glued to the body so I will add the back after the neck is attached.Thanks for all your advice, I've enjoyed wood working for years but this is unlike anything I've done.,there's so much to learn.

 

[sequoia]

You will have to scrape the finish off the body and final fit the neck prior to gluing or screwing it on.

...Or mask off the areas where the neck heal and fretboard get glued or screwed to the body.