Yeah, that was a bit of a surprise. Osage Orange darkens as it oxidizes, and I've been laying them out in the sun to get more UV exposure. That ribbon of grain began to appear after a couple of days in the sun, and has gotten darker over the past week or so.I really like the grain pattern on the one on the left.
I got my O.O. fretboard blanks from a place called Appalachian Tonewoods, who is building a business as a supplier of locally harvested woods. We see O.O. in the wild around here some, where it was transplanted from the OK/TX area, but it is not common. It is mostly smaller trees, but I know where there's a huge, sprawling specimen that must be a hundred years old or more. It looks like something from Ray Bradbury's "Something Wicked This Way Comes.".When I lived in Texas in my old 1920's house, I discovered the foundation piers were large rounds of Osage Orange wood holding up the house. They were as pristine as the day they were cut. We called the trees Bois d’arc which was pronounced by locals as "Bow Dark" wood.
From the Wood Database: https://www.wood-database.com/osage-orange/
"Osage Orange has a relatively low modulus of elasticity compared to its weight and modulus of rupture which helps explain why it is sometimes used for archery bows. It’s sometimes called Bois d’arc, which literally means “bow wood” in American French."
Using a DIY mini-sled and a palm router to flatten the back of the second of two ukulele pegheads. I also used the platform and a different bit to rout the saddle slot on the Osage Orange bridge blank to the right.
Actual router, even a laminate trimmer, has a stronger motor and better bearings. And I can use bits with either 1/8" or 1/4" shafts in the router shown in the image.Are there advantages to having an actual router vs. a Dremel with a router attachment? I imagine a router possibly has more options with bit attachments?
Didn't think of that. First time working with American Chestnut for me. This wood is over 100 years old, so I'm not sure how much tannin would be left.I haven't made many things out of chestnut but I do know it reacts strongly with ferrous metals.due to the tannin content. This is normally more of a problem with wet wood rather than dry. But you may want to consider putting some finish (shellac, oil, varnish) inside the tuner holes just in case it reacts with the metal.