Threaded insert for neck joint.

mikeyb2

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Hi everyone, for those of you that use such inserts( the type that screw into the neck with a threaded hole for the neck bolt), just wondering whether you glue the inserts. I've used these a few times and generally add some epoxy to the thread when I screw it in. Even without the glue, the insert screws up really tightly, so it makes me wonder whether the glue is really necessary? What do you think?
Cheers Mike.
 
What Kekani said
 
Beau and Kekani, thanks, that's exactly why I normally add some epoxy to stabilise the end grain. I've not tried ca because I thought it might set too quickly before the insert is fully screwed in, maybe I was wrong. Epoxy gives more time. I might as well carry on gluing the insert if you guys endorse the idea. Cheers Mike
 
Thin Ca can be applied after the insert is in, but carefully. I use inserts in my dovetail necks so that I can put a handle on them for finishing. I apply the Ca with a pipette,with several applications in small amounts, and using accelerator.. Depending on the grain structure of the neck wood, Ca can penetrate all the way through the neck heel. Especially an issue with Spanish cedar. When that happens, you get a stain on the neck heel that can't be sanded out. Applying Ca from the bottle also makes it very easy to get it on the insert threads. With pipettes and accelerator, I have not had an issue. That said, the thread locker, mentioned by other builders, sounds like a good alternative too. A lifetime supply box of pipettes is available cheap on Amazon.
 
Beau and Kekani, thanks, that's exactly why I normally add some epoxy to stabilise the end grain. I've not tried ca because I thought it might set too quickly before the insert is fully screwed in, maybe I was wrong. Epoxy gives more time. I might as well carry on gluing the insert if you guys endorse the idea. Cheers Mike
Here is an an older video of mine- You may pick up some tips but I ca glue the insert about 19 mins in.
Also, in this video the insert it more proud than i usually do. I usually get it pretty flush (or even inbed it) and add the ca carefully to the side and it wicks itself in. Add the thin ca after it is installed.

-
 
I slosh that CA around liberally and do a clean out of the thread with my 6mm tap, though I must admit I tend to favour the metal cross dowel rather than the threaded insert. The tap is also useful in sorting out slight misalignments of the cross dowel and predrilled hole too.

I have also seen a video on tapping straight into wood instead of using a threaded insert that claimed the insert was a waste of time and money but I cant find it.
 
I do use the cross dowel type in larger instruments like guitars, but here I'm talking about Soprano ukulele, so far less tension on the neck joint. I also use one of these instead of the one shown in Beau's video.
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They are far more readily available here in the UK and dirt cheap. Thanks Mike
 
I use these inserts- 1/4"-20 E-Z LOK Threaded insert
It also comes in a kit which is very handy- Installation Kit
I use these bolts (1 in a uke, two on guitars)- 1/4"-20 Connector Bolts
I buy the silver or brass ones as then you can write on the head which instrument they go on (because you will forget and mine are all different lengths- I actually buy these from the local hardware store and have various lengths for different instrument sizes.

Lastly, the dowel jig i use in the video above is excellent, however it doesn't have a hole that nicely fits the drill bit for the EZ LOK bit, so i wrap some masking tape around the bit so it doesn't flop around- it works fine.
 
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