Tying Knots

This may be a silly question but has anyone with a string-though bridge tried those tiny round weights generally called "split-shot sinkers" used in fishing? The sinkers I have in mind have a Pac-Man shape with teeth that literally bite perpendicularly into a monofilament line so that the sinker remains in place. When I was very young, I'd bite the sinker to cinch it in place on the line just above the hook. Only in my late teens did I acquire the good sense to use a set of pliers. Here's a photo of an Eagle Claw brand sinker, which is the only brand I've ever seen, LOL. The webpage states that they're now made of tin rather than lead. The curved rear (photo right) side is intended to make the sinker re-usable.

Sinkers vary from not much larger than a BB pellet to nearly as large as the tip of an index finger.
shopping
 
The LaBella packaging is very nice and those who like beads should note that instead of paper or colour labels LaBella actually uses numbered cube shaped beads to label their strings.
Interesting. Their Pepe Romero set (also by LaBella) comes with the paper labels.
 
This may be a silly question but has anyone with a string-though bridge tried those tiny round weights generally called "split-shot sinkers" used in fishing?
Interesting thought. I wonder if the metal against a wooden bridge would be a bad idea over time?
 
Interesting thought. I wonder if the metal against a wooden bridge would be a bad idea over time?
I had the same thought but I've read that Luthiers who commonly use string-through bridges often supply tiny metal washers for the same purpose and I'd expect those to be made of aluminum or even spring steel. My guess is that the larger the sinker the better, in terms of tension distribution.
 
I had the same thought but I've read that Luthiers who commonly use string-through bridges often supply tiny metal washers for the same purpose and I'd expect those to be made of aluminum or even spring steel. My guess is that the larger the sinker the better, in terms of tension distribution.
Ukes with string through bridge also are supposed to have a bridge plate installed on the inside. This is usually a hard wood but some luthiers use carbon fibre plates to protect the top above.
 
This may be a silly question but has anyone with a string-though bridge tried those tiny round weights generally called "split-shot sinkers" used in fishing? The sinkers I have in mind have a Pac-Man shape with teeth that literally bite perpendicularly into a monofilament line so that the sinker remains in place. When I was very young, I'd bite the sinker to cinch it in place on the line just above the hook. Only in my late teens did I acquire the good sense to use a set of pliers. Here's a photo of an Eagle Claw brand sinker, which is the only brand I've ever seen, LOL. The webpage states that they're now made of tin rather than lead. The curved rear (photo right) side is intended to make the sinker re-usable.

Sinkers vary from not much larger than a BB pellet to nearly as large as the tip of an index finger.
shopping

Seems like a workable idea as long as you have a good knot to back it up. Split shot always slipped on my fishing line, but I do think it would nest into the backing plate as well as a bead.
 
Ukes with string through bridge also are supposed to have a bridge plate installed on the inside. This is usually a hard wood but some luthiers use carbon fibre plates to protect the top above.
Seems like a workable idea as long as you have a good knot to back it up. Split shot always slipped on my fishing line, but I do think it would nest into the backing plate as well as a bead.
@TerryM: Thank you for completing my mental picture of how this ought to work. I agree that it should go: (1) Feed one end of each string down through the bridge, bridge patch and into the sound box. (2) Fish the end of that same string out through the sound hole. (3) Tie a good double square or fisherman’s knot on the same end of the string. (4) Crimp a small, tin split shot sinker immediately above and touching the knot. (5) Feed the knot/ sinker end back into sound hole. (6) Pull the working (nut/ tuner) end of the same string over the saddle and nut. (7) Repeat with each string.
(8) Tune up.

Over time, the split shot sinker will likely slip tighter against the knot, but as Terry M noted, seems likely to serve as just as good, if not better, backer for the under- bridge knot than would a metal washer, with less likelihood of causing a buzz.

If I had a uke with a string- through bridge, I wouldn’t be able to avoid trying this tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
So after the mechanics of the string through bridge were explained I am not sure if the diversion to using beads answered the OP question for a knot. As I once owned Ashley's Book of Knots my vote goes to Ashley's Stopper Knot, as I find a Monkeys Fist a bit more difficult.

 
I had hopes on the slight chance this thread might be about ukulele gigs at weddings. 😬

No advantage to a string through bridge at all, drilling holes is just the cheapest way of bridge construction. But as the occasional discussion on this indicates it brings complications for string changes.
I've heard a couple luthiers mention that a string thru bridge might be one of the various design choices that could improve sound a fraction of a percent, as the string is transferring vibration directly to the sound board. There are obviously many great ukes and other instruments that sound perfect with other bridge methods! Just re-stating what I heard.
 
I had hopes on the slight chance this thread might be about ukulele gigs at weddings. 😬


I've heard a couple luthiers mention that a string thru bridge might be one of the various design choices that could improve sound a fraction of a percent, as the string is transferring vibration directly to the sound board. There are obviously many great ukes and other instruments that sound perfect with other bridge methods! Just re-stating what I heard.
I noticed the words "might" and "fraction." 😁

No one, and I mean no one, is going to be able to tell the difference. You would need expensive electronics to determine differences between bridge attachment methods. After you got the results, you'd shrug and move on to another project.
 
I
I had hopes on the slight chance this thread might be about ukulele gigs at weddings. 😬


I've heard a couple luthiers mention that a string thru bridge might be one of the various design choices that could improve sound a fraction of a percent, as the string is transferring vibration directly to the sound board. There are obviously many great ukes and other instruments that sound perfect with other bridge methods! Just re-stating what I heard.
actually
I noticed the words "might" and "fraction." 😁

No one, and I mean no one, is going to be able to tell the difference. You would need expensive electronics to determine differences between bridge attachment methods. After you got the results, you'd shrug and move on to another project.
Excellent point, Jerry. My opinion of string-through bridges is not based on any imperceptible difference in sound but on the seemingly obvious transfer of string tension to the bottom plane of the bridge patch (underneath the sound board) as opposed to a point on the bridge itself, a few mm behind the saddle. Seems like that should greatly lessen, if not completely remove, the likelihood of a bridge ever coming unglued as a result of string tension. Am I mistaken?
 
Top Bottom