What's happening in your shed?

tonyturley

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Hope you had a sharp saw. It sure makes you appreciate power tools.
Yes it does. I decided to go ahead and resaw the rest of the Sycamore slab into a tenor-sized back and side set, and the resulting pieces fit my bandsaw. The resaw took about a minute per pass, compared to somewhere around an hour to do a set with the hand saw.
 

Timbuck

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Clamps ? I must have got hundreds...getting the right one for the job is the problem.
 

dwizum

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What's the difference between clamps, a heavy weight, and wrapping the top and bottom with a strap? I've seen all three techniques used.

Probably preference, more than anything.

Most typical clamps are going to be able to exert much more pressure than you're probably willing to stack on with weights. Even the cheap cam lever quick release clamps are usually well over 100 lbs of force, and a good c clamp can be over a thousand pounds.

The makers of titebond recommend 175 - 250 psi for hardwoods. I'd be willing to bet that pretty much no one is getting there by stacking weights on top of something, at least for larger joints. A heel block is maybe 4 or 5 square inches, so you'd need in the neighborhood of a thousand pounds of weight. But, it's also pretty clear that you can make a successful joint at lower than that.
 

tonyturley

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Spending a rainy morning in the garage making a building form and spreader bars for my baritone ukulele project. The bandsaw was a Christmas gift from my wife over 25 years ago, and it still works great. I installed a new blade and retuned it this morning just for this job. Not shown is the oscillating spindle sander I used to true the first piece cut on the bandsaw so it could be used as the master with the router pattern bit.

bandsaw.jpgkasha form.jpg
 

gerardg

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Santo soprano in progress.
Mapple bookmatched top.
Red cedar bars.
Carbon fiber cloth/epoxy resin patch.

CYwEx6k4AlzVocCdntGyWRPI0NA.jpg
 

tonyturley

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Finished my Kasha baritone building form. It's a slightly upscale version of the one used by Heidi Litke in Robert O'Brien's video tenor uke building course. It allows a Spanish heel build while still using a building form. I've not been clever enough to figure that out for myself.

kasha building form.jpg
 

Jerryc41

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Finished my Kasha baritone building form. It's a slightly upscale version of the one used by Heidi Litke in Robert O'Brien's video tenor uke building course. It allows a Spanish heel build while still using a building form. I've not been clever enough to figure that out for myself.

View attachment 134171

That's a beautiful mold. I'm surprised that molds aren't for sale at places like Stew-Mac.
 

tonyturley

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That's a beautiful mold. I'm surprised that molds aren't for sale at places like Stew-Mac.

Thanks. LMII has some ukulele molds, but at $100, I'd rather build my own. My current kiku project is being built on an open form, using blocks at the tail and heel, and 1" dowels bolted into slots at the waist with spreaders inside. I've built two baritone size bodies on this form, and decided I wanted to put in the extra effort to make a full mold for the next project. Here's a comparison between the two building forms:

progress 060521.jpg
 

Tom Snape

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Finished my Kasha baritone building form. It's a slightly upscale version of the one used by Heidi Litke in Robert O'Brien's video tenor uke building course. It allows a Spanish heel build while still using a building form. I've not been clever enough to figure that out for myself.

View attachment 134171

Do you have a photo of a build in the mold with neck attached? I'm not clear no how this allows you to build with a Spanish heel. Only thing I can figure is you must raise the body high enough in the mold so that the back of the neck clears the top of the mold. (Maybe I just answered my own question?)
 

tonyturley

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Do you have a photo of a build in the mold with neck attached? I'm not clear no how this allows you to build with a Spanish heel. Only thing I can figure is you must raise the body high enough in the mold so that the back of the neck clears the top of the mold. (Maybe I just answered my own question?)
That is true. Here's an image of Heidi working on one of her ukes: https://www.redsandsukuleles.com/bi0.html