Bridge popped off- What kind of adhesive should I use?

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Appears to be unfinished spruce

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What kind of glue should I use for this repair?

I know., its a cheaper Donner, but it's my daughters first uke and she adores it.
 
The same happened to my DUT-3. I think the break was a bit cleaner on mine. Due to the remaining splinters, it's very easy to trace the bridge in pencil. You'll see exactly where to glue it.

Mine was only six weeks old and Donner offered to replace it. I declined and got a full refund (and they didn't even want me to return it). I was going to cannibalise it later on.
My father-in-law said he'd fix it, and he did so when we took it over during a visit. I thought he had a special clamp or two, and maybe hot hide glue. However, he removed loose splinters and then applied superglue (Locktite). He only needed to hold the bridge in place for about 30 seconds, just manually. The glue left some traces on the top, so I would suggest to cover the top (whatever glue you use).
It's been over two years, and I haven't experienced any problems. I know it's a cheap uke, but I absolutely love it!

So, if it's still under warranty, reach out and they may offer to send a replacement.
 
Yeah I was going to sand away the splinters from the bridge and I have a soft clamp. Didn't know if I should use a particular kind of epoxy. I figured I should stay away from anything that expands with moisture like Gorilla glue, but with as much as she plays it I didn't want to use something that hardens and turns brittle like a standard super glue.

What is Hide Glue?
 
Here is a link about hide glue: https://www.finewoodworking.com/2020/03/20/choosing-and-mixing-hot-hide-glue

It has long been used in instrument making.

Something I forgot to mention in my initial reply is that, should your daughter be curious about trying a low G on this instrument, then now is a perfect moment to widen the slot in the bridge a tad.

Read up about hot hide glue (HHG). Any mistakes are reversible, so no pressure, only an opportunity to learn.
You could start a new thread in the Luthier's Lounge. There is a lot of expertise there, and they will offer great advice.
 
You may also want to tape around where the bridge goes with blue tape. That helps stopping it from sliding, keeping itin place, when you clamp down the bridge after gluing. Brian Griffin of Griffin Ukes writes about doing that in his blog on his website.
 
I'm no luthier, but I've used regular Titebond on several ukes with popped bridges to good effect.
 
If you are beginner, don't mess with hide glues or super glues. Use Titebond original (Red Cap). Clean up the areas and sand lightly, tape off the area on the top, use a small amount of glue on both surfaces, hold in place for 5 minutes and put a little weight on the bridge and let it set for a couple of hours or more. Be sure to clean up any glue around the edges before it sets. String it up after a day. This isn't hard, but can be if you over think it. If you screw up hide glue, you will be doing it again. There is no magic in hide glue, just use Titebond.


I'm no luthier, but I've used regular Titebond on several ukes with popped bridges to good effect.
 
I highly suggest you listen to BlackBear on this. I totally agree with him.

I would also add that you will greatly benefit from getting all your pieces prepped and doing a few (or several if needed) dry runs where you mock up the process just without glue. Do it until you are comfortable with the process as it will keep you from fumbling when the real moment arises.

The thing to remember though is that when glue is added it will sometimes make the bridge want to move around (slippery). This is where the:
hold in place for 5 minutes
Then:
put a little weight on the bridge and let it set for a couple of hours or more
comes in. If you put the weight on right away it is likely to slip out of position. That 5 mins allows the glue to tack up and keep it from slipping.

This is a simple fix if you get the process right. Just get yourself some Titebond Original (Titebond Original with the red cap can be found at just about any hardware store for a few bucks), take your time and make sure everything is clean and prepped. I will also note that it would be better done at a time your humidity is average rather than overly dry or overly humid. Does not have to be perfect just around average for your area.

All the best!
 
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