using ca glue for whole build?

CA isn't meant to be elastic, and why would you use a glue that is elastic? No glue is going to hold up if the uke gets destroyed.

Littleriveruke said:

Below is a picture of what CA glue looks like in a catastrophic ukulele failure. It turns to a white sort of powder and loses all holding properties. When CA gives it up, it gives it up totally. It is not very elastic in my experience, but what do I know?

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I fixed a failing bridge on a mid level Chinese guitar this past fall. I don’t know if it was a CA glue they used or not, but it was a mother to get off and half of it already failed. I do use CA a lot more now than ever, but I really don’t like the stuff. Also the day I walk through Martin Guitar and they are all using super glue to brace and joint their Tops and backs, I might not completely dismiss the idea as I do now.

Flyfish57 said:

I fixed a failing bridge on a mid level Chinese guitar this past fall. I don’t know if it was a CA glue they used or not, but it was a mother to get off and half of it already failed. I do use CA a lot more now than ever, but I really don’t like the stuff. Also the day I walk through Martin Guitar and they are all using super glue to brace and joint their Tops and backs, I might not completely dismiss the idea as I do now.

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I would never use Martin Guitar as the standard for my ukuleles!

I can see glueing on braces with CA to their formica laminate guitars (Martin), but I don't think they would use CA on a better quality wood to wood guitar. Talk about a warranty nightmare, and if they do, I'm glad I have an older Martin.

Flyfish57 said:

I fixed a failing bridge on a mid level Chinese guitar this past fall. I don’t know if it was a CA glue they used or not, but it was a mother to get off and half of it already failed. I do use CA a lot more now than ever, but I really don’t like the stuff. Also the day I walk through Martin Guitar and they are all using super glue to brace and joint their Tops and backs, I might not completely dismiss the idea as I do now.

Click to expand...

Flyfish57 said:

I fixed a failing bridge on a mid level Chinese guitar this past fall. I don’t know if it was a CA glue they used or not, but it was a mother to get off and half of it already failed. I do use CA a lot more now than ever, but I really don’t like the stuff. Also the day I walk through Martin Guitar and they are all using super glue to brace and joint their Tops and backs, I might not completely dismiss the idea as I do now.

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The bridge is one area where I'd certainly never use ca glue on. That and anything to do with the neck/body connection. Some of these critical bonds need to be reversible.
But as someone else mentioned, I really don't see the point of using ca on an entire build. If time is a concern, Titebond holds strong enough to be handled within 20 minutes and there's still plenty to do while glue is drying.

As an ex RC model builder, I have to add my two cents on the subject of CA glues for uke building. When CA's first became popular, everyone loved them for their speedy drying time in getting crashed planes back in the air. Later, as confidence in the reliability of the adhesive increased, complete air frames were built using CA, with the exception of parts where some re-positioning of parts were required. So it is with ukuleles, in my opinion. Things like braces, kerfing, binding and such, should be fine glued with CA glues, as opposed to neck, tops and such. I think that tradition is to blame for the slow acceptance of the use of CA adhesives for instrument building. My opinion, of course, as a newcomer to the craft, but with experience in gluing bits of wood together! Remember, the adhesive is only as strong as the material it holds together.

Bob

Some reasons to use Tite Bond according to StewMac, the maker of your friend'a kit, for the thought process of original poster (if he's still here).

Moore Bettah Ukuleles said:

It happens more often that you'd think. I've had to cut my fingers away from my ukes quite a few times. I literally put my blood, sweat and sometimes tears into my work.

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That's what CA Release Agent is for. I never work with CA glue without a bottle of release agent nearby. I use CA as a high-gloss, ultra-durable finish on wood-turned projects. I would never use it to assemble an acoustic instrument of any kind, especially for the top, bridge, or neck. Those joints need to be reversible for repairs...

OregonJim said:

That's what CA Release Agent is for. I never work with CA glue without a bottle of release agent nearby. I use CA as a high-gloss, ultra-durable finish on wood-turned projects. I would never use it to assemble an acoustic instrument of any kind, especially for the top, bridge, or neck. Those joints need to be reversible for repairs...

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I do have a couple of bottle of the stuff around but I'd rather not contaminate my joint with the release agent. Leaving a little blood behind just shows the level of my commitment I have to my customers. . Using latex glove fingertips eliminates the problem all together.
As far as your other comment goes, please see my post #25 above.