I'm at it again. BAS has replaced UAS.

I haven't gotten a rubber stringed bass yet. Hadean may be on the horizon. I lucked on this little 34" Samick P bass style.

hard to go wrong with a good old pbass. I did have rondo music sx ursa1 pbass. I loved their pbass pickup on that but sold it since I went short scale. Now if rondo did a short scale 5 string pbass (with a non suck lowb) that I would seriously consider.
 
Hey Booli, what color is the output jack, none of Rondo's photos show it. I think it may be black, which means I'll replace it with chrome.

Just seeing your message now @ 12am-ish, I can't check now, but will check and post info tomorrow...
 
Hey Booli, what color is the output jack, none of Rondo's photos show it. I think it may be black, which means I'll replace it with chrome.

Great, thanks Booli.

I was able to get to it without disturbing anyone, and yes, the output jack on the sunburst solid-body Hadean bass uke is in fact black.

I replaced the strings with the Aquila Thunder REDS, and one thing I did notice is that the nut is very roughly cut, almost square slots and with very sharp edges. Not sure if I will sand or file them, or just replace the nut with a real Kala u-bass nut (I already have a few), or just leave it alone.

Also the clearcoat finish on the string holes on both the front and back seems to be starting to crack or peel every so slightly.

Seems like a dab of clear nail polish will be in order to touch this up.

Another thing I noticed is that the E and A tuners are smooth as silk, while the D and G tuners seem to be inordinately difficult to turn even when no string is installed. Loosening the screw for the button nor the gear seems to have any effect. Tomorrow I'll add a few drops of 3-in-1 oil to each worm gear, and into the shaft hole of each tuner's assembly and see if this helps, otherwise it seems it's just metal-to-metal that's grinding due to imperfect machining of the gears in the aluminum.

The sunburst and gloss finish on the body is otherwise very nicely done, and the back of the neck is either unfinished or done with a light satin coat, and either way is perfectly smooth other than the tiny ding I mentioned previously, which I can see only but not feel at all. The neck profile is very comfortable to play on, and it seems that this is a 'fast' neck.

Surprisingly, completely unplugged, there is decent enough volume for quiet practice, and you can FEEL both the body and the neck resonate as you play. Whatever actual woods they use are very musical to the ear, as well as by the feeling of the vibration in your hands when you play.

Despite the minor flaws, which I document here only since this is a NEW instrument, for the price, this Hadean uke bass is very well put together and I am actually quite impressed overall. Keep in mind though that I never played a real Kala U-Bass, but the Hadean feels great, and my feverish lust for a Kala SUB or California U-Bass has been completely purged and satisfied. :)

The acoustic Hadean uke bass is set to arrive today (Monday 4/20) via UPS sometime in the late afternoon, and I am really looking forward to it :music:
 
Sent my wife a link to those Rondos, her reply? "I think you need that." :cool:
 
Hey all, I received the blue Hadean today, for sure the Thunderguts give off a lot of string noise, much worse than my Gold Tone did before I switched to Pahoehoe, I hope the yellow Pohoehoe don't suffer the same. I already started breaking it down for the mod; removed the black tuners, strap buttons, head plate truss rod cover, knobs.

Already have the chrome HipShot tuners and yellow Pahoehoe strings (also have Thunder Reds, 2 sets!, as an alternative), received the new chrome knobs, waiting for the chrome output jack, luckily the actual 1/4" female is chrome so I don't have solder anything, just change the nut and frame (even if it was black I would leave it, not to have to solder), just ordered a white truss rod cover. I'm laying out the template for the pickguards and the amount to cut off the horns.

Rondo blue bass pick.jpg
 
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Hey all, I received the blue Hadean today, for sure the Thunderguts give off a lot of string noise, much worse than my Gold Tone did before I switched to Pahoehoe, I hope the yellow Pohoehoe don't suffer the same. I already started breaking it down for the mod; removed the black tuners, strap buttons, head plate truss rod cover, knobs.

Already have the chrome HipShot tuners and yellow Pahoehoe strings (also have Thunder Reds, 2 sets!, as an alternative), received the new chrome knobs, waiting for the chrome output jack, luckily the actual 1/4" female is chrome so I don't have solder anything, just change the nut and frame (even if it was black I would leave it, not to have to solder), still have to order a white truss rod cover, hopefully I can find the correct size. I'm laying out the template for the pickguards and the amount to cut off the horns.

Rondo blue bass pick.jpg

Sounds like it's coming along nicely.

One trick I've found, kind of by accident with both the Hadean solid-body sunburst model, which is now strung with the Aquila RED Thunderguts, and also with the Hadean acoustic model which still has the factory white Thunderguts, is that when I oiled the fretboard with the Dunlop 65 lemon-oil fretboard conditioner, that if you apply some lemon oil to the fat rubbery strings, it helps with the friction on the strings, and also reduced the finger noise quite a bit.

Now my strings are pretty slick and easier to fret and pluck. Not sure if this will hurt the strings over time, but for now it seems to make the feel better. I take no responsibility if anyone else does this and it eats the strings...early days yet...so I have no long term report. Proceed at your own risk!
 
One trick I've found, ...d with the Dunlop 65 lemon-oil fretboard conditioner, that if you apply some lemon oil to the fat rubbery strings, it helps with the friction on the strings, and also reduced the finger noise quite a bit.

Now my strings are pretty slick and easier to fret and pluck. Not sure if this will hurt the strings over time, but for now it seems to make the feel better. I take no responsibility if anyone else does this and it eats the strings...early days yet...so I have no long term report. Proceed at your own risk!


Yes, replying/quoting myself here to update:

The fretboard oil has been either completely absorbed into the strings, or evaporated, and there is not really any evidence that it was applied. Strings are like they were before and 'out of the box.'
 
Seems like maybe :) she's a keeper!

Absolutely! Not only that, but she is an outstanding crew chief and has been known to change out wheels on my race bike between races so I don't get my leathers dirty!
 
How do the stock tuners compare to the hipshots?

The HipShots have a plastic and a metal washer inside at the base of each barrel shaft, the Rondo does not, I imagine to help keep the spool tight and stay in tune. I've stripped the Rondo to get ready for refinishing the headplate and adding the pickguards so I will not be able to test out my theory. Booli, how well do the stock black tuners stay in tune, any slippage?
 
The HipShots have a plastic and a metal washer inside at the base of each barrel shaft, the Rondo does not, I imagine to help keep the spool tight and stay in tune. I've stripped the Rondo to get ready for refinishing the headplate and adding the pickguards so I will not be able to test out my theory. Booli, how well do the stock black tuners stay in tune, any slippage?

No slippage. As per the way these came strung, with the string end inserted into the hole at the center of the tuner, and then ~3 wraps on the tuner to pitch. As far as the funky double-twist knot shown in the Kala restringing video on youtube, none of that has been necessary, and other than about 5-10 cents of string stretch each day thus far, they seem to be just right.

However, like the tuners I bought from largesound.com, these unbranded stock tuners on both the solid-body and the acoustic Hadean uke bases appear to be identical to each other, and identical to those from largesound.com - maybe they are the same or from the same source?

Sadly, as such, both the D and G string tuners become difficult to turn and have some grinding as you get greater tension on the peg when you approach concert pitch...I really gotta get a few drops of 3-in-1 oil in there and see if it helps. This occurs on both the largesound.com tuners as well as the ones installed in both Hadean uke basses.

Can I ask where you bought the Hipshot tuners? Did you get them from Owen Holt of Road Toad Music or from Kala direct? I do not recall seeing chrome tuners of this kind for sale from either, and last time I checked the Hipshot web site, I could not find ANY u-bass type tuners at all listed (even as a reference).

Prior to finding them, I was going to make my own by getting some metal sewing-machine bobbin spools, and tack-welding them to regular bass or guitar tuners and then modifying them as necessary to fit the fat strings (of course I'd have to first buy a small welder and learn how to use it without burning down the house or inflicting bodily harm to myself - LOL), but now this is a moot point with the set of 4 tuners from largesound.com available for only $32 (in black only and 2R/2L config only).
 
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I got them from Owen, but he had to special order chrome direct from HipShot for $126, they told Owen I got the last chrome ones they had, found in the back of their warehouse. I'm very grateful that I got them, but they suffer the same problem of getting very difficult to turn when the string gets tight.
 
I got them from Owen, but he had to special order chrome direct from HipShot for $126, they told Owen I got the last chrome ones they had, found in the back of their warehouse. I'm very grateful that I got them, but they suffer the same problem of getting very difficult to turn when the string gets tight.

Thanks for the info.

I can confirm that the smoothness and function of the tuners are greatly improved if you add a few drops of 3-in-1 oil to the tuners right where the worm gear meets the gear that turns the peg (it helps to have the strings face DOWN, and tilt the headstock DOWN so the oil runs INTO the gear assembly, instead of all over the wood).

After adding the oil I turned the tuners DOWN about 15 turns [detuned] (or one full rotation of the tuner peg) to make sure that the fresh oil gets into the big gear on the back, and then back UP to pitch, and going UP was so much easier, and no grinding or unexpected resistance (as was the case previously).

WD-40 may work as well, but despite having a spray nozzle and straw attached, I find the dispersal of WD-40 to make a mess with the high pressure of the compressed propellant, and rather not have to deal with the cleanup all over the headstock and neck from the dripping and overspray.
 
Good info. I also discovered a thin piece of plastic in the gears of two tuners, and definitely going to do the lube job.

Just received the output jack, perfect. Next is the white truss rod cover plate. Boy this is fun, I'm going to have a unique Hadean.
 
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I'll be pulling the trigger on a sold body within the next week, if I can find one in my price range that I think will be dependable for gigging. Unfortunately the California-made Kalas and even the Chinese ones are a bit more than I'm comfortable investing at the moment.

kohanmike - sorry to keep derailing your thread!

Booli - this probably isn't a fair question, but if I were to locate a Kala solidbody U-Bass (not one of the US made ones) for about $100 more than the Hadean, do you think the difference would be worth it? The Kala comes with a bag and a strap. For some reason, I get the feeling they may come from the same factory.
 
Booli - this probably isn't a fair question, but if I were to locate a Kala solidbody U-Bass (not one of the US made ones) for about $100 more than the Hadean, do you think the difference would be worth it? The Kala comes with a bag and a strap. For some reason, I get the feeling they may come from the same factory.

Not sure I can answer to your query exactly, as I'd said in a previous post to this thread, I've never actually played a Kala U-Bass, however, as I also stated previously now having both the solid-body and acoustic Hadean uke basses, my lust for a true Kala, Gold Tone, Eddy Finn, Ohana, Ortega D-Walker brands of u-bass type instrument is now completely satisfied.

However, this interest may be rekindled when The Magic Fluke Company releases their Bass Fluke sometime in/after June as per their NAMM2015 info and the front page of their web site, which I also confirmed by telephone with 'Betty' when I called Magic Fluke last week. My guess is that the price will be AT LEAST $500. I am a HUGE fan of their instruments and have both a tenor Fluke (with solid koa top, rosewood fretboard and pegheds) and tenor Flea (walnut top with birch rosette, rosewood fretboard), as well as a concert Flea (black Lava model, birch top, plastic fretboard, Gotoh UPT-L tuners [self-installed]) and another tenor Flea (hibiscus red model, birch top, plastic fretboard) is in transit from Gryphon Strings in Palo Alto, CA and should be in my hands on Tues next week.

Keep in mind that my purpose for a uke bass might be different than most, for I am currently not a bass player in a gigging band (been there, done that), nor do I want to embark on a deep study of the instrument. My SOLE purpose is to have an actual instrument (as opposed to MIDI or software plugins) for songwriting/compositional purposes. There's too much of a 'disconnect' for me playing/writing bass parts with a piano-keyboard type controller.

Since taking up the ukulele 2 yrs ago (and now mainly tenor and baritone, seldom concert or soprano any more), I find a 34" long-scale bass nearly impossible to play -- it's not just the scale length or the string tension, but I've grown out my nails on the right hand and there's no adaptation of right-hand technique that makes sense for me (regardless of if I use tapewounds or flatwounds, either way my nails still get wrecked), also a larger (than uke bass) bass is heavy enough to dissuade me from using it. I've also tried several 32", 30" and 25.5" scale basses, and still a real PITA for me. Once upon a time I was pining for a Ned Steinberger electric upright, or a Stagg electric upright, but cant justify the cost in lieu of the Hadean uke basses, never mind that upright bass strings are over $100 per set (Thomastik-Infeld).

If it helps to know (with regard to my own satisfaction level with these Hadean instruments), I'll share that I'll soon be selling my 1986 sparkle-red Aria Pro II 34" scale electric bass with OHSC, as well as my much older 4/4-sized Kay upright acoustic bass. These Hadean uke basses are 'good enough' for my needs, and take up a lot less space.

As you've pointed out, no case was included from Rondo, and the Kala acoustic u-bass hard-case (rectangle-shaped, tolex over plywood) is 0.3" too narrow for the width of the lower bout, as well as a full 1" too short for the overall length of the Hadean.

Hope this helps. :)
 
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Just to throw another direction in the works, at NAMM I saw an acoustic u-bass prototype being shown by Boulder Creek/RipTide that they said would be out by June. Great looking, and is supposed to be around $500. I took a quick photo.

Boulder Creek u-bass.jpg
 
Just to throw another direction in the works, at NAMM I saw an acoustic u-bass prototype being shown by Boulder Creek/RipTide that they said would be out by June. Great looking, and is supposed to be around $500. I took a quick photo.

Boulder Creek u-bass.jpg

Thanks for the info. This one has a body shape that looks to me to be inspired by a Fender Tele, and interesting to see that they are using bridge pins for a uke bass with those superfat strings - LOL :)
 
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