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Thread: 3d printed Dremel Jig for Sanding Nuts and Saddles

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    Default 3d printed Dremel Jig for Sanding Nuts and Saddles

    I'd always been meaning to replace these tusq hardware on my ukes with proper bone nuts and saddles. On my classicals, I've installed fossilized ivory with a noticeable difference. But I really hate shaping these things by hand.

    I'd been thinking of creating a jig for a dremel that would give me a flat area to shave ~2mm-3mm at a time leaving the hand sanding to do the fine tuning.

    I also have a 3d printer. There are quite a number of dremel attachments even entire rotary setups that can be 3d printed. But I've yet to find a design for this purpose.

    If you are so willing, would you mind sharing pics of your jigs or share ideas you might have? I've done a lot of 3d printing design but never anything like this.

    Of course, I'll be sharing my design here for everyone for free.
    KAMAKA HF-3 | KOALOHA KTM-00-R | KANILEA K-1 C SF

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    Philly
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    In recent weeks I added under saddle piezo to two of my ukes. I tried to think of a foolproof way to shave down the saddles and here is what I came up with. This is a hardened steel jig for grinding knife blades. I clamped the saddle in the jig and ran it over my belt sander. Once it gets down to the steel it stops sanding, especially if you use a light touch. In order to get the saddle to protrude an even amount across the jig I put a spacer underneath before tightening the jig. The spacer raised the saddle the amount I wanted to shave off.

    I keep thinking of a more elegant tool I could fashion to do the same job but for now this works wonderfully. I'm not exactly sure how this would translate to your 3D dremel jig idea but I thought I'd throw it out there to see if it sparks any ideas.

    jig1.jpgjig2.jpg

  3. #3
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    Jul 2009
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    Thats actually how I do mine now. I use a tool vice lined with rubber tape from tennis rackets to hold the saddle upside down and I sand from there. But I do that to get me to no less than 5mm from my target. From there, I'm sanding it by hand on sandpaper taped to a marble block to ensure flatness.

    This has struck some ideas though thanks - I'm thinking something to just hold the dremel with precisely say around 2-3mm of the sand drum exposed to some sort of flat surface that I run the saddle or nut through.
    KAMAKA HF-3 | KOALOHA KTM-00-R | KANILEA K-1 C SF

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    UK
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    You can plane down Bone Nuts/Saddles, it's actually pretty fast. Just need a decent blade in a block plane, sharpened at a higher angle.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    Canberra, Australia
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    My triton router table has a planing setting were the feed out side can be adjusted separately. Take a look at how they work on YouTube to give yourself ideas how to achieve something similar on a smaller scale.

  6. #6
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    ^^ That is great!! Thank you!
    KAMAKA HF-3 | KOALOHA KTM-00-R | KANILEA K-1 C SF

  7. #7
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    Jul 2009
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    Woodinville, Washington
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    I use a large single cut file with the saddle held in a vise. If you have trouble cutting it straight a jig like the knife blade holder would work well. It doesn't have to be in hardened steel. The jaws on your vise could already be straight. When I was doing repair work I often had to cut the bottom at an angle to match the existing slot. Some lean back a little, more lean forward a little. It is a lot easier to tilt the file than to tilt a jig. There are a lot of ways to do this.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Maryland
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