question

If I were to undertake this project, here is how I would do it. Cut the wood into desired shape, then saw off both the top and the back. This will allow you to remove the interior in one piece, using either a band saw (entry cut covered by an end graft) or the hard way with a coping saw. The secret to a nearly invisible glue line is to not disturb the original saw lines when gluing the top and back on. As Chuck pointed out, the end grain portions will need to be left thick. Expanding on the concept, instead of gluing the top on, you could hinge it. Take the off cut from the center and make nesting ukuleles from one piece of wood.

Brad
 
If I were to undertake this project, here is how I would do it. Cut the wood into desired shape, then saw off both the top and the back. This will allow you to remove the interior in one piece, using either a band saw (entry cut covered by an end graft) or the hard way with a coping saw. The secret to a nearly invisible glue line is to not disturb the original saw lines when gluing the top and back on. As Chuck pointed out, the end grain portions will need to be left thick. Expanding on the concept, instead of gluing the top on, you could hinge it. Take the off cut from the center and make nesting ukuleles from one piece of wood.

Brad

thanks for the help
and ps. like the name!
 
You are welcome. Let me add that I share some of the misgivings of some of the others from previous posts about the difficulty of this project. My main concern would be neck stability. It takes very little neck movement to render an instrument unplayable. At the very least I would route out the center of the fretboard area and install a carbon fiber strip, and cover that with a contrasting strip of wood. You also asked about koa. A piece of plain koa in the size requested could be several hundred dollars. I recently purchased some myrtlewood about that size for $44.00. You would do well to consider that as an alternative. The variations of color and grain patterns would make a striking instrument.

Brad
 
You are welcome. Let me add that I share some of the misgivings of some of the others from previous posts about the difficulty of this project. My main concern would be neck stability. It takes very little neck movement to render an instrument unplayable. At the very least I would route out the center of the fretboard area and install a carbon fiber strip, and cover that with a contrasting strip of wood. You also asked about koa. A piece of plain koa in the size requested could be several hundred dollars. I recently purchased some myrtlewood about that size for $44.00. You would do well to consider that as an alternative. The variations of color and grain patterns would make a striking instrument.

Brad

can you send me the link of where you got the mrytle from. thanks
 
I get myrtle from the Myrtlewood Factory Outlet, in Garibaldi, OR. It is about 30 miles south of me, and I drop by their wood room every couple of months. Their web address is http. myrtlewoodfactoryoutlet.com/. They always told me if I need anything specific, to let them know. If you contact them they should be able to supply what you need.

Brad
 
You do not need carbon fibre - I had a uke back in my workshop, 10 years old, neck straight as the day it left... This was a 6 string tenor as well.
 
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