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Thread: Shiny areas in satin finish

  1. #1

    Default Shiny areas in satin finish

    My seven year old Collings UT-1K has shiny areas in the satin finish in the lower bout where it's in contact with the forearm and near the sound hole where the right hand rests. A luthier I respect to told me that he could sand the shiny areas, but that he'll probably hot be able to exactly match the areas that are not shiny. The other option he offered is to buff and polish the body so that it's all shiny. Of course, I could always leave it the way it is as it's purely a cosmetic issue. Any thoughts?
    Collings UT-1K - Low G
    Pono RT-PC C - Low G (Sold)
    Cordoba 15CM - Enough to get me interested

  2. #2
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    In other areas that is referred to as patina, I'd leave it as a reminder of the hours sweating over you muse.

  3. #3
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    I love the rich, low gloss look of a lightly polished satin finish. Can easily be done by hand with a soft cloth and an appropriate polish. Many have used auto scratch and haze remover. I have also used some Flitz plastic polish but have since bought some Stewmac polishes.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by JackLuis View Post
    In other areas that is referred to as patina, I'd leave it as a reminder of the hours sweating over you muse.
    Agreed!

    My Brunswick tenor has a big shiny patch above the soundhole where my thumb comes to rest when I'm playing clawhammer. I did consider the concept of polishing the whole instrument to match, but decided to leave it
    There are those who will wax lyrical about the ability to play a double shuffle with a split fan and a tight G-string ...
    it just makes me walk funny!

  5. #5
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    Like Kypfer said, if I didn't want to leave it the way it is, I'd polish the whole thing instead of trying to make the shiny areas satin-y again. They'll just get shiny again. But I'm with Jack on this: Leave it the way it is. It's like small dings: the sign of a ukulele being played a lot.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JackLuis View Post
    In other areas that is referred to as patina, I'd leave it as a reminder of the hours sweating over you muse.
    shows character and that it's been loved and played!
    Just Play

    Sopranos: 1st uke, Lanikai soprano LU-11 - Aquilas | 30's Martin style 0 - Martins
    Concerts: Kanile'a K-2 CP - Living Water | Islander AC-4 - Living Water | Waverly Street banjolele - Worth Browns
    Tenor: Epiphone Hummingbird - Living Water low G
    UBass: Kala FS2 - Pahoehoe

  7. #7
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    Like you said, it is purely cosmetic. I have done the same thing as Phil. I did not like the matte finish on one of my ukes, so I tried using Simichrome to lightly polish the surface, then wipe with a soft cloth. Now it is a semi-gloss and I like it much better. If you look at your Collins each time and say, "I wish it did not look like that", then use polish gently and change it. If it doesn't really bother you much, leave it alone.

  8. #8
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    If the relic craze hits the ukulele scene, you would have to pay extra for the builder to add that shiny spot and some shirt button rash on the back.
    Black Bear Koa Pineapple Sopranino (C)- Eddie Finn Soprano EF-15-S - Bruce Wei Pineapple Soprano (C)
    Martin O style Soprano 1920's-30's (C) - Kamaka Tiki Concert (C) - Ko'olau Pineapple Concert (C)low g
    Koaloha Pineapple Sunday (Bb) - Kingston Baritone dGBE

  9. #9
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    I agree, I'd leave it alone. You could make it worse by trying to "fix" it. Nothing wrong with a shiny spot from playing. That happens on all satin Collings that get played.

    However, I did read in another post where someone put Nufinish (car polish) on their Collings and got a uniform shine. Not sure if that is what you want.
    -Hodge
    Humble strummer of fine ukes.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JackLuis View Post
    I'd leave it as a reminder of the hours sweating over you muse.
    I like that
    Collings UT-1K - Low G
    Pono RT-PC C - Low G (Sold)
    Cordoba 15CM - Enough to get me interested

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