Neck binding questions

finkdaddy

finkdaddy

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I'm considering binding the neck on my next build.
Before I start, is there anything that I need to know that isn't obvious?
I'm especially wondering about how hard it is to add the frets, and if there is something there I should be aware of.
Are the fret ends dressed before they are added?

Any info would be very helpful. Thanks ahead of time! :D
 
In binding the board made sure you don't get glue in the slots and nip the tangs of the frets where they will go over your binding. I also hit the bottom of the fretwire where the tang is nipped off with a dremel with a grinding wheel. You probibly don't have to but it seems to help for me. I make the binding a little proud on the bottom and top of the fingerboard. I then scrape the bottom flush and drumsand the top flush.
 
The tang will obviously have to be cut off where the fret goes over the fretboard binding. This has to be cut off with nippers and then the ends ground flat. A simple dremel tool with a cutting wheel works great. One could grind flat with a file but that would take a lot of work and time. This why binding a fretboard involves extra work. There are 19 frets which means 38 grinding operations. Boring! But the only way to go in my opinion. Also keep in mind that fret ends can lift with a bound fretboard because they are not anchored so this method is not without its drawbacks. And yes, like Michael says, don't get anything into the slots after you bind because getting it out is... nasty. Other than that, simple.
 
Yes, I meant to say I wanted to bind the fretboard.
This is all great info. Thank you!

I'm in the middle of retooling my entire shop and I'm also designing a completely new uke from what I'm used to building.
When I finally start building this next one, I'll make sure and post process pics as I go.

Thanks again!
 
kwquine, thank you for the tips!

Do you then dress the ends of the frets before installing them?
 
Binding the fretboard makes fretting about 4-5 times as long to do
 
Beau Hannam Ukuleles said:
Binding the fretboard makes fretting about 4-5 times as long to do
Click to expand...

Yeah, every time I do a bound fretboard I spend a lot of time thinking about how much longer it takes to do this operation because doing this operation gives a person a lot of time to think... I would say easily 5 times as long. Maybe even 6.575. Also I think about whether I should put a drop of CA glue on those ends to prevent future unpleasantness as in lifting fret ends. So far I don't and have not had any problems... yet. Something about gluing frets gives me pause. Have pity on the future poor bastard repair person that has to replace them. I wonder sometimes whether it is worth the extra work, but I like the look and feel.

DSCN7400.jpg
 
sequoia said:
Yeah, every time I do a bound fretboard I spend a lot of time thinking about how much longer it takes to do this operation because doing this operation gives a person a lot of time to think... I would say easily 5 times as long. Maybe even 6.575. Also I think about whether I should put a drop of CA glue on those ends to prevent future unpleasantness as in lifting fret ends. So far I don't and have not had any problems... yet. Something about gluing frets gives me pause. Have pity on the future poor bastard repair person that has to replace them. I wonder sometimes whether it is worth the extra work, but I like the look and feel.

View attachment 96160
Click to expand...

haha- I glue everything in now with either HHG or titebond. After installing them all I then go back and CA glue the entire fret (not just the ends).
 
I dress the fret ends after installing them. Cutting and filing the bevel is no problem. Just gotta be careful dressing those little sharp corners of the bevel. I got a needle file and ground the side edges smooth so they won't bite the binding. I've seen other use tape as a protector. Its just plain fussy work no matter what.
 
sequoia said:
Yeah, every time I do a bound fretboard I spend a lot of time thinking about how much longer it takes to do this operation because doing this operation gives a person a lot of time to think... I would say easily 5 times as long. Maybe even 6.575. Also I think about whether I should put a drop of CA glue on those ends to prevent future unpleasantness as in lifting fret ends. So far I don't and have not had any problems... yet. Something about gluing frets gives me pause. Have pity on the future poor bastard repair person that has to replace them. I wonder sometimes whether it is worth the extra work, but I like the look and feel.

View attachment 96160
Click to expand...

Glued in frets are usually removed after first heating the fret with a soldering iron.
 
Also- how many ukes need a refret???- those nylon strings don't wear the metal like steel strings do.

Even epoxy releases under heat (170F from memory which isn't much more then titebond).
 
Beau Hannam Ukuleles said:
Also- how many ukes need a refret???- those nylon strings don't wear the metal like steel strings do.

Even epoxy releases under heat (170F from memory which isn't much more then titebond).
Click to expand...

I think the idea of building with future repairs in mind is not so much due to poor construction or bad maintenance but rather the accidents that may happen to the instrument. Still, you're correct, we don't have to worry about it quite as much as guitar builders do.
 
Kekani said:
Had one.

Threw it away after I got the Hosco.

Going back and forth between the Hosco and Summit, but leaning towards Summit just because it cost more. At this point, seems like it will last longer too.

Only when I did a semi-hemi fret job.
Click to expand...

Does the Summit model work with Stewmac's #764 Narrow/Low fret wire?
 
Allen said:
Does the Summit model work with Stewmac's #764 Narrow/Low fret wire?
Click to expand...
You made me check. I'll say "no."

It comes with a doublesided guide plate for Jescar 43080 and 47104. Options for larger guide plates as well. https://www.jescar.com/summit-fret-cutting-tools/
Comparatively, the SMD 764 would have a Jescar part number of 37053, basically, the first two numbers the height of the crown, and the next three being width of the crown.

It works ok for the SMD 147, but when I gravitate to Jescar's 43080 in bulk, I'll be throwing away the Hosco I'm sure. . .
 
I was looking at all the dies that come with it and I came to the same conclusion. I wrote to the company just to confirm. Perhaps they would make another die.
 
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