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Thread: Enya EUR-X1 Soprano - REVIEW

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kvehe View Post
    I received mine yesterday. Generally speaking, I really, really dislike sopranos. I **love** this one. Yes, it's quiet, which is good in my book. I took it to my lesson and my instructor loved it too - he's going to order one. He was playing some Tom Petty song on it (beats me which one, I hate to say I barely know any of Tom Petty's work) and thought it was terrific, and then decided it would also be good for more contemplative songs and segued into Silent Night. It was lovely.

    Thanks, Bazmaz! My faith in the soprano family has been restored!
    My frying pan is on it's way next week! Will let you know my thoughts!

  2. #12
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    May 2019
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    Hi, newbie please be gentle, I have a couple of Enya and just bought an Eur-x1 yes it's very quiet. My question, since the neck bolts on, would it be possible to, gently remove the bridge move it towards centre by a few mm, it's a tie through so holes in top limit this, then add a same amount as a spacer between body and neck, in so doing the distance between nut at bridge is the same as before as are length of bridge to 12 fret etc. All that it would look like is a slight longer neck and a spacer at the heel. Would the small distance make any real difference, or is the amount too small, I guess 5-7 mm? Thanks.

  3. #13
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    Why are you wanting to move the bridge? To improve volume? Whilst I agree that the bridge on the round ones is in the wrong place for volume, you can't just move it - as that will change the scale length and the fret positions will never work.

    Yes the bridge would be better further up, but you can't improve that by moving the bridge - it would need to stay in the same place and have a bigger body below the bridge.
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  4. #14
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    May 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by bazmaz View Post
    Why are you wanting to move the bridge? To improve volume? Whilst I agree that the bridge on the round ones is in the wrong place for volume, you can't just move it - as that will change the scale length and the fret positions will never work.

    Yes the bridge would be better further up, but you can't improve that by moving the bridge - it would need to stay in the same place and have a bigger body below the bridge.
    I was/am also going to move or space the neck further away from the body, by the same amount i move the bridge, the scale lengths etc will stay the same, the neck will join at the 13th fret perhaps. Does that sound more feasible?

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stpete View Post
    I was/am also going to move or space the neck further away from the body, by the same amount i move the bridge, the scale lengths etc will stay the same, the neck will join at the 13th fret perhaps. Does that sound more feasible?
    I think there's another thread with a similar question in progress. As for moving a bridge you should also look inside the uke. Most instruments also have a bridge plate inside to support the top for the extra tension as well as bracing that creates the tone of the uke and supports overall vibrations. If your uke has any of these you will also have to remove the top and move the inside supports by the same amount.

  6. #16
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    May 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by merlin666 View Post
    I think there's another thread with a similar question in progress. As for moving a bridge you should also look inside the uke. Most instruments also have a bridge plate inside to support the top for the extra tension as well as bracing that creates the tone of the uke and supports overall vibrations. If your uke has any of these you will also have to remove the top and move the inside supports by the same amount.
    There is, unfortunately it is mine.
    Under the bridge there is just a piece of thin hpl, much thinner than top or sides, i think with a small amount of move it may be ok.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stpete View Post
    I was/am also going to move or space the neck further away from the body, by the same amount i move the bridge, the scale lengths etc will stay the same, the neck will join at the 13th fret perhaps. Does that sound more feasible?
    It could be done with more than just moving the neck - but I'd suggest that a) it's a lot of hassle for an improvement that might only be slight (see below) and b) I would be surprised if you could keep the neck joint strength by spacing it away from the body. You'd also need to move the internal bridge plate inside.

    I say 'slight' because I think the way Enya build these, they are always going to be quiet. Sure the bridge position on the EUR doesn't help, but i've also played the straight soprano which has a bridge in a normal position. It's a touch louder, but really not by much
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  8. #18
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    May 2019
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    Thanks for the info Barry, I've not been able to compare with the std soprano but I have the "bargain" X1m and EUT X1 and both feel louder especially after string changes. This was bought on a whim, it was sold by Mugig on amazon, on prime day, its a bit different, the headstock is black like the X1m but everything else is as the stn X1, at 25 with all the std kit, good bag etc I couldn't refuse. It will also be used as a test bed for my design of a preamp/pick up , active, rechargeable, simple and low cost. I get what you say about bridge plate but looking inside it quite a large piece of thin hpl glued on so it may be ok to ignore, my biggest question is now how to gently loosen the glue on the bridge. Thanks for the input, it's really helpful, I will probably try my pickup/preamp first then the bridge move. Thanks.

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