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Thread: First build -quilted maple and redwood

  1. #21
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    Mar 2017
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    Arlington, WA U.S.A.
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    'cuz I've no intention of being "self taught" at this. That would be a HUGE mistake. I consider you folks my mentors and coaches. -Gratefully!

  2. #22
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    Oct 2014
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    Little River, California
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    But keep in mind that there are many approaches to building ukes and most of them work just fine. It is finding what works for you that is important... Yeah, the fundamental lesson that I learned is that while just about everything on an ukulele is rounded and radiused, it still all comes off from the square. An interesting concept if you think about it; arcs gotta be square. Oh and arcs drove the ancient Greeks crazy. They never did really figure it out because an arc contains an infinite amount of tiny squares. It wasn't until Newton invented calculus that the problem was solved. I never did get calculus and you don't need to know calculus to build an ukulele. Happy strumming!

  3. #23
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    Mar 2017
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    Arlington, WA U.S.A.
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    Quote Originally Posted by sequoia View Post
    ...you don't need to know calculus to build an ukulele.
    Well, I'm certainly glad for that! My calculus grades would qualify me to sweep the shop floor... maybe!

    At this point in my 'career' as luthier-wanna-be I am looking for any ol' approach that I can accomplish. So gratitude is my best color!

  4. #24
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    Mar 2017
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    Working on headstock shape, or peghead head shape. I welcome your opinions about what I've come up with. Gratefully!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #25
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    Mar 2017
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    I fiddled with the outline some more. Broadened the top corners and rounded them. I think I like it better.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    980

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    I like the look. It is tough to tell as it may look different once it is cut out, but perhaps try making the shape and the curves even a little more pronounced.

  7. #27
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    Mar 2017
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    Thanks for the help! I'll look at it some more. I used carbon paper to transfer the outline onto 1/4" plywood and had planned to transfer it again onto Plexiglas. There's likely a better way to do this though.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Kapolei, Hawaii
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    1,928

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    Quote Originally Posted by ChuckBarnett View Post
    This is just the sort of thing that I need to hear: the order of construction, i.e. where to start, on which end, etc. Bless you all!!
    Not for nothing, but I usually square up the neck joint after the back is on. Gluing the back on may throw your current 90 degrees off to something else. Since I do a M&T off a neck angle jig, 90 degrees is somewhat irrelevant. For me, square is relevant, in all directions of the neck joint. Since you've squared it up, I'd say double check once the back goes on, and go from there.

  9. #29
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    Mar 2017
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    Been away from ukulele building for some time. Trying to get back into it now. Working on that neck and wondering if there is variation in tuner sizes. Both the diameter of holes to drill and thickness of the peghead ( including veneer). Anybody know quick answer for that? Along with that not sure what a better set of tuners would be? What do y'all use? Thanks once again. :-)

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
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    Simple answer yes.
    On open back tuners post diameter is usually to fit either a 6mm or 1/4 inch hole.
    Post length varies but will generally be made to fit a 1/2 inch thick headstock.
    Sealed planetary and friction tuners are different again. I almost always do my final thickness with the tuners I am going to use in my hand. This may be a function of the fact that I use cheap asian tuners. I have even had the odd mixed bunch where two sets of tuners in the same delivery had different shaft lengths.

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