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Thread: Ukulele size buying advice

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2017


    Quote Originally Posted by Chopped Liver View Post
    As to friction tuners, you can tighten the screws on them to make them hold better, but then they are difficult to turn. I don't like them.
    Jan, thanks for sharing your experience on that, from what I read here you are far from alone in struggling with them and as I mentioned in a different post an aquatintance had to give up using a Uke with friction legs because they were so difficult to use - they suffer from arthritis though.

    Friction pegs have been working for some people in some form for many decades. There might be a ‘knack to it’ but I guess it’s also like Baz (above) seems to say in that good ones work well, the problem is that what’s typically supplied isn’t of that superior quality required for easy use.

    I find this comparison and explanation by Baz helpful: . If I remeber correctly Baz swapped out the as supplied tuning pegs on an Ohana too - not a particularly cheap Uke - because he didn’t feel that they worked well enough.

    I hope that the above has been helpful.
    Last edited by Graham Greenbag; 02-11-2018 at 11:03 PM.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    MARTIN-sville Indiana


    Congratulations! That is an amazing uke! You will never need to upgrade from a quality uke standpoint (although we always NEED another uke... lol)

    Quote Originally Posted by shroomshade View Post
    1. I did not opt to have the friction tuners upgraded to the Gotoh UPT tuners. Is that a mistake? Seeing so many bad things about friction tuners is making me wonder if I should email them and pay to upgrade the tuners after all. Or should the Koaloha friction tuners be sufficient?
    KoAloha friction pegs are good, quality pegs. I really like UPTs but never found the need to upgrade the original ones that came on my KoAloha. They were easy to tune and held their pitch without issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by shroomshade View Post
    2. I did not request a low G, but am wondering if I should ask for it prior to them setting it up and shipping it. I do plan on doing a lot of fingerpicking, is a low G recommended for that? Would give more notes to work with. How is low G for strumming and for chord melody arrangements? I am tempted to go for it, but want to make sure it will work for all styles of playing. Is changing it as simple as changing out the string? Or is it kind of one or the other?
    There is no right or wrong, only different. You can find strumming, chord melody, fingerpicking music for both. Low G does give you more notes, but high G gives you two high strings, which tend to be the strings that carry the melody. It is all personal preference. I mainly play chord melody and fingerpicking and am pretty much a high G player. The best part is it is a simple change to go from one to the other. To this point, when I have used a Freemont Soloist for low G I didn't have to make any adjustments to the nut. So I was able to put it straight on and change it back whenever I wanted.

    Happy Strumming!
    Main players:

    Soprano: Kiwaya KS-1 | Van Pelt sinker redwood/claro walnut

    Concert: Collings UC2 | Collings UC2K | Talsma Style 3 | 16" Ono | Ono Pineapple

    Tenor: Collings UT3SMB

    Baritone: LoPrinzi

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