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Thread: Resonator Cone Question

  1. #1
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    Default Resonator Cone Question

    I'm converting an Enya tenor into a resonator uke. I cut a hole in the uke, and I also cut out a circular piece of wood to hold the cone. I realize I will have to route a channel in this circular piece to sink the cone down low enough. So, the big question is - how low is low enough, but not too low?

    I'd rather not keep cutting more and more before I get it right. Is there a method to determine how low the cone must be to have the strings set at the right height?

    These are the parts I have.

    https://www.bytowninstruments.com/co...esonator-parts

  2. #2
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    Cone height determines saddle height. You need to measure and do the math.

  3. #3
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    And assume the cone will sink maybe 1-1.5mm under string pressure, so leave enough saddle to allow final adjustment once you find out how much when you string it up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ProfChris View Post
    And assume the cone will sink maybe 1-1.5mm under string pressure, so leave enough saddle to allow final adjustment once you find out how much when you string it up.
    Yeah, that's another problem. After I figure how much to cut that piece, I'll have to cut it more to allow for the pressure of the strings. I saw a guy online who set it all up, tightened the strings, and then routed it a bit more after measuring.

  5. #5
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    I'd draw the full-size instrument from the side before anything. Its a fun exercise, and it should be possible to lay it out leaving all the final action adjustment in the saddle height.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jcalkin View Post
    I'd draw the full-size instrument from the side before anything. Its a fun exercise, and it should be possible to lay it out leaving all the final action adjustment in the saddle height.
    Good idea. Last night I measured the height of the original saddle above the top. Then I measured the height of the cone/biscuit/saddle combination, which is considerably higher. That will give me a good starting point. Then I can cut down the saddle to get the final measurement on the fingerboard. Which brings up another question.

    How important is the size of the maple saddle? Right now, it's at least half an inch high.

  7. #7
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    Don’t cut that maple saddle down to exact height, you’ll want notches for the strings in it to keep them at the right distance and angles.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sven View Post
    Don’t cut that maple saddle down to exact height, you’ll want notches for the strings in it to keep them at the right distance and angles.
    Thanks. Are there guidelines for how tall the maple saddle should be? I can get the string height right by lowering both the cone and the saddle.

  9. #9
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    On the resort I made the saddle is quite high, maybe 3/8. Works fine.

    So plan for your saddle top to end up around there. The strings will be a little lower because of the notches. If you get it wrong you have at least 1/4 inch in either direction to recover.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProfChris View Post
    On the resort I made the saddle is quite high, maybe 3/8. Works fine.

    So plan for your saddle top to end up around there. The strings will be a little lower because of the notches. If you get it wrong you have at least 1/4 inch in either direction to recover.
    Thanks. I decided that rather than routing a channel for the cone, I'll add a thin piece of wood on top of the 3/8" piece I already cut. Quite a few people who made resonators or did a conversion did that instead of routing a lower resting place for the cone.

    Is your saddle level? Some I've seen are intentionally higher for the G string and then slant down.

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