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Thread: Friction tuner replacements: Grover 6 vs Grover 4 vs Grover 88

  1. #1
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    Question Friction tuner replacements: Grover 6 vs Grover 4 vs Grover 88

    I'm looking to replace some geared tuners with friction tuners, for reasons both visual and tactile (they're lighter).

    I've already done one with UPTs. UPTs are cool and easy to install but are not as light as regular friction tuners. Been looking for something lighter and possible, as a bonus, cheaper.

    Grover seems to make a lot of friciton tuners. I've noticed 3 types that seem similar: the 4 series, the 6 series, and the 88 series. Does anybody know the difference between them?

    In addition, I am curious to hear suggestions for other light but also higher-quality friction pegs.
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  2. #2
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    The Grover website is less than helpful on what is the difference. https://www.grotro.com/Grover/UKULELE
    It's bonkers that you have to click through each on that page to see what the model number is, there's no information on post diameter, and the #6 is listed twice!


    I think the ones I got for my Brüko soprano were #6 series, in retrospect a bad choice because they're quite chunky - maybe ok for a tenor or baritone, but look too much for the soprano. Also, the Brüko has a conical countersink to each hole on the reverse of the headstock, so for me the Champion 2B would have been better.

    My advice would be to take one of the geared tuners off, take a good look at how the hole in the headstock is countersunk (if at all), and then choose from 2B, 85B, 3B (black) or 3W (white) depending on what you find. If the hole isn't countersunk, then I would think 85B are what you want. The advantage of 2B and 3B (and 3W) on the other hand is that if the post is a bit narrower than the hole in the headstock, you have the option of countersinking it to match the rear part of the peg and hold the peg centred.

    Personally I have neither the tools, skills or inclination to ream the hole to match the peg. In my case I cannibalised the conical part of the old Brüko peg to make the #6 fit!

  3. #3
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    I swapped the Grover 2s in my Flea, Fluke, and Firefly for 6s. The post holes in the Fluke were the same, but in the other two they were too small for the 6s. I got a flat file and gently(!) opened them just enough for the 6s to fit. I'm very pleased. The 6s have a silicone washer, so they adjust and hold better than the 2s. I'm not sure about the difference between 4s and 6s.

    If you're swapping them in a standard headstock, a reamer will open the holes *IF* you need to do that. It may not be necessary. I swapped the awful stock geared tuners in a cheap Makala concert for Grover 88s (85s?) but had to use a reamer to make that switch. No sweat, really. And I'm usually a real klutz with hand tools.
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  4. #4
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    Thanks for all the feedback... I ended up just going with the 6s. I installed them on a Famous and a Cordoba. On both, I did not need to even ream! The holes were conveniently the same size.

    To echo Jim Avery, I wish there were more info out there on the grover site, but for now, it'll be a mystery to me.
    uke blog

    UkuleleAnalyst.blogspot.com

    songs

    https://soundcloud.com/bennypaul

    videos (includes uke demos)

    http://youtube.com/user/theschumanity

    current ukes

    Johnson UK-200 baritone, Kiwaya Famous FLS-1G, Cordoba 24T

    former ukes

    Martin 1T, Martin Oliver Ditson Dreadnought Soprano, Martin Baritone, Ohana SK-28, Ohana SK-25S, Favilla Baritone, Kala KA-FMBG, Luna Great Wave Concert, Mainland Red Cedar Baritone, Mainland Classic Mahogany Tenor, Oscar Schmidt OU53, Oscar Schmidt OU57, Kiwaya Famous KTS-5 soprano, Ohana TK-38 tenor

  5. #5

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    Hi!

    I’m bumping this thread in hopes of more comments. I’m currently trying to decide between the Grover #4, Grover #6 or the Waverly’s for a soprano.

    Someone commented that the #6’s are chunky. Any chance someone with these would be willing to take a photo of them attached to a uke? Or direct me to shop photo of a uke with these? I’m having trouble imagining how they look like attached.

    Also, anyone know the weights of these three? After googling forever, I’m finding some conflicting results with regards to the weight.

    Many thanks in advance!
    Max

  6. #6
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    I also would be interested on hearing more about Grover #6s especially compared to Waverley tuner pegs.
    Martin OXK Soprano
    Kamaka HF3 Tenor
    Eastman EU3C Concert
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    Martin T1K

  7. #7
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    I took a picture of the Grover #6 pegs on the black Brüko next to the stock pegs on the white one.

    https://1drv.ms/u/s!ApA9i-oo5pNGi9MDWBXPWURi0rjIWQ

  8. #8
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    Photos of Grover 2s on an Ohana and Grover 6s on a Fluke and a Kala. Hope this gives some perspective. I haven’t noticed any change in balance on the Kala. The tuners aren’t that heavy.


    6EBCFC89-427F-4706-AC82-1D89D21D87ED.jpg

    A7992FF8-514A-41AC-A1BB-A7D2B60B35D1.jpg
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    Martin C1K • Famous by Kiwaya FS-1 <yippee!!> • Ohana CK-50WG concert (solid cedar top) • Ohana SK-35G solid mahogany soprano <yay!!> • Firefly maple concert banjolele <yee-haw!> • Flea koa soprano • Lanikai LU22CFM laminate flame maple concert • Islander MAT-4 spalted maple tenor • Makala MK-CE concert • Woodrow "Steelers" soprano <eyeroll>

    Raleigh Uke Jam:

    My YouTube page

  9. #9

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    Thanks a lot for the pictures jimavery and hendulele, very kind of you!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by hendulele View Post
    I swapped the Grover 2s in my Flea, Fluke, and Firefly for 6s. The post holes in the Fluke were the same, but in the other two they were too small for the 6s. I got a flat file and gently(!) opened them just enough for the 6s to fit. I'm very pleased. The 6s have a silicone washer, so they adjust and hold better than the 2s. I'm not sure about the difference between 4s and 6s.

    If you're swapping them in a standard headstock, a reamer will open the holes *IF* you need to do that. It may not be necessary. I swapped the awful stock geared tuners in a cheap Makala concert for Grover 88s (85s?) but had to use a reamer to make that switch. No sweat, really. And I'm usually a real klutz with hand tools.
    good to know, the stock ones on my recently purchased flea are a tad sticky, if the 6's are a straight swap that makes things easier. Only having geared in the past is something to get use too with the friction stuff.
    Or if any one knows if the pegheads are a direct swap?
    Last edited by Weebeastie; 08-09-2018 at 09:13 AM.

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