Bridge slot spacing width - replacing the bridge.

bsfloyd

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Hello gang. I recently acquired a Martin S-O that has become quite dear to me. I just changed to strings for the first time since owning it and I noticed the 4th string slot at the bridge is not spaced evenly to the others - it has a larger space. Also, less important is the 1st string slot is a bit rough and slightly widened out to the point where the string knot needs to be pretty large to prevent the string from popping through. I assume the bridge could be replaced by a luthier, correct? If so, has anyone done this before and what the approx cost might be? I'm sure this could be a minor thing, but sometimes OCD takes over. Thanks!
 
Yes, a luthier would be the easy choice. Any competent luthier would not struggle to attach a new bridge. I have no idea what the cost would be, but if you bring it to two or more luthiers, you will probably get different prices.

As for the spacing, I looked at some online, and the spacing seems to be uniform. I wonder why your spacing is different. Still, I bet it makes no difference at all, at least none anyone would notice in the sound. For the enlarged slot, you can attach a tiny bead to the end of the string to keep it in place. I know from experience that trying to make a large knot for a large slot can be a challenge, especially f you want it to be neat. Let us know ho this turns out.
 
Thanks for the reply, Jerry. I did contact two luthiers in my area over the weekend. I hope to hear back from them soon. I have thought about using a bead, but wanted to see what a replacement would set me back.

After looking at it again, I notice that the first string spacing is slightly off as well. So it seems to be symmetrical, just that the 1st and fourth slots are set further apart from the center two. I don't think this was intentional? These were not made in the Martin USA factory so who knows where the bridges were made. Nonetheless it plays fine, just odd to look at :) This instrument really is a lovely little thing!
 
Thanks for the reply, Jerry. I did contact two luthiers in my area over the weekend. I hope to hear back from them soon. I have thought about using a bead, but wanted to see what a replacement would set me back.

After looking at it again, I notice that the first string spacing is slightly off as well. So it seems to be symmetrical, just that the 1st and fourth slots are set further apart from the center two. I don't think this was intentional? These were not made in the Martin USA factory so who knows where the bridges were made. Nonetheless it plays fine, just odd to look at :) This instrument really is a lovely little thing!

Can you post accurate measurements in millimeters and post them?
 
Hello gang. I recently acquired a Martin S-O that has become quite dear to me.

If an S-0 is dear you will love an older classic Martin. They can be had for a little more than the price of an S-0. Yes this reply is self-serving as I have a 1920s 0 on Craigslist and will have more in the future as they leave the recovery room.
 
Thanks for the reply, spongeuke - I'm certain I would love an older Martin!

I actually forgot to follow up with this thread. The two local luthiers I contacted both said that a bridge replacement would be very expensive and advised to try to "band-aid" the problems instead. They did not give me pricing for a replacement. I would much rather have a new bridge over a band-aid, but alas. I've watched several videos of this online, but I don't feel brave enough to tackle this myself. The spacing that is off is not a great deal, but the OCD inside me gets bothered by it is all.

Sorry Jerry, I never did get those actual measurements yet. I will soon.
 
I actually forgot to follow up with this thread. The two local luthiers I contacted both said that a bridge replacement would be very expensive and advised to try to "band-aid" the problems instead. They did not give me pricing for a replacement. I would much rather have a new bridge over a band-aid, but alas. I've watched several videos of this online, but I don't feel brave enough to tackle this myself. The spacing that is off is not a great deal, but the OCD inside me gets bothered by it is all.

Sorry Jerry, I never did get those actual measurements yet. I will soon.

I wonder why it would be "very expensive." Removal, price of a replacement, gluing?

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Ukulele/ReglueUkeBridge/reglueukebridge.html
http://ukeonomics.blogspot.com/2012/09/vintage-harmony-ukulele-repair-project_17.html
 
I've seen both of these links, Jerry and I still wonder why for the very expensive cost. Again, they did not give me hard numbers so maybe their thought of very expensive might not be so. I originally was thinking $100 bucks or so. Perhaps I should try and get actual numbers from them...
 
I've seen both of these links, Jerry and I still wonder why for the very expensive cost. Again, they did not give me hard numbers so maybe their thought of very expensive might not be so. I originally was thinking $100 bucks or so. Perhaps I should try and get actual numbers from them...

Odd he would say "very expensive" without giving you a number. Still, when a luthier says "very expensive," it's probably not going to be a cheap fix.

I think a friend had the bridge pop off his Martin. I'll ask him what he did about it.
 
You clearly loved the uke as it was, until you noticed that the string spacing was very slightly irregular. Can't you accept it as it is, and just continue to enjoy playing it? Nothing is perfect, and if a uke plays well and sounds good, I - for one - could accept such a small detail.

My advice is to keep it as a "beater" and save your hundred bucks (or whatever) towards buying an older Martin. My own 1960s Style 1 has had a hard life, and looks somewhat distressed, but it is a great player (unlike me!) and I love it.

John Colter.
 
I wonder why it would be "very expensive." Removal, price of a replacement, gluing?

Without seeing the quote it's hard to say. Did they not quote an actual price? I usually price something like this on time and materials. It's probably a 2-3 hour job to remove the bridge, clean up the area, make a new bridge (the most time/labor intensive part), re-glue. I would probably estimate around $100 - $150.

That uke goes for around $300 - $350 I think. If so, it's probably not worth doing, especially if it's playable and sounds ok.
 
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My friend had the bridge pop off two Martins. Each was repaired "for not much money." I asked him if he can give me an exact figure. The luthier used Titebond and clamps.
 
Yes, a lot cheaper if all you have to do is remove the old glue from the top and the bridge and re-glue. But this sounded light a remove, remake, and replace.
 
Thanks for the replies, everyone! It's true, I have a bit of OCD. The instruments plays fine (with just a hint of high action, which is any easy fix), and sounds nice. I would have noticed this off bridge spacing when I went to adjust the saddle. Plus the 1st string slot is still a bit goobered up and string can pop through unless double or triple knotted. Thus, my OCD gets the best of me. The rest of the instrument is in like new condition.

Stew Mac sells a couple of complete bridges which was my intent and then have the luthier remove the old, clean, and install the new. I didn't need him/her to make a new bridge, unless of course they insisted on making their own. I believe I need to find out what they mean by very expensive...

Thanks again for the advice and info!!
 
Thanks for the replies, everyone! It's true, I have a bit of OCD. The instruments plays fine (with just a hint of high action, which is any easy fix), and sounds nice. I would have noticed this off bridge spacing when I went to adjust the saddle. Plus the 1st string slot is still a bit goobered up and string can pop through unless double or triple knotted. Thus, my OCD gets the best of me. The rest of the instrument is in like new condition.

Stew Mac sells a couple of complete bridges which was my intent and then have the luthier remove the old, clean, and install the new. I didn't need him/her to make a new bridge, unless of course they insisted on making their own. I believe I need to find out what they mean by very expensive...

Thanks again for the advice and info!!

The slipping knot is one drawback of a slotted bridge. You can buy tiny beads from a craft store and tie one to the end of the string. If you replace the bridge, you'll want it to look just like the original, so a luthier might be your best source for buying or making one. If you make that Martin S-O look non-standard, you will hurt its resale value.
 
If you get quoted a silly rate for a job, it usually means they don’t want to do it, but they will do it if you give them silly money!
H
 
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