mmn
Well-known member
Bruko One-Piece Bridge Compensation
Hi,
I have a question for my fellow luthiers. Most all my experience is with guitars and bridges with separate saddles. This is a one-piece bridge and I need to adjust the compensation. How much adjustment needed is shown in the four attached pictures, one for each string.
There's two ways I can go (that I know of and know how to do).
1) Sand the saddle down, make a jig for my Dremel router base, cut a saddle slot and make a compensated saddle. I've done this a few times making new bridges for guitars.
2) Since I need to lower the action a little (it's at 3 mm now), adjust compensation by selective sanding of the fixed saddle.
The second option is easier, but it doesn't allow for much, if any, future adjustments. The first method leaves more room for future adjustments, but carries more risk and is more work, i.e. setup and making a compensated saddle.
I'd like opinions from you who have experience doing this sort of thing with ukuleles. Also, if there's another option I haven't thought of I'd like to hear that too.
TIA!
Edit: I should say this is my own instrument, not a customer. It's a 20 year old Bruko soprano, solid maple with rosewood bridge/saddle and nut.
Hi,
I have a question for my fellow luthiers. Most all my experience is with guitars and bridges with separate saddles. This is a one-piece bridge and I need to adjust the compensation. How much adjustment needed is shown in the four attached pictures, one for each string.
There's two ways I can go (that I know of and know how to do).
1) Sand the saddle down, make a jig for my Dremel router base, cut a saddle slot and make a compensated saddle. I've done this a few times making new bridges for guitars.
2) Since I need to lower the action a little (it's at 3 mm now), adjust compensation by selective sanding of the fixed saddle.
The second option is easier, but it doesn't allow for much, if any, future adjustments. The first method leaves more room for future adjustments, but carries more risk and is more work, i.e. setup and making a compensated saddle.
I'd like opinions from you who have experience doing this sort of thing with ukuleles. Also, if there's another option I haven't thought of I'd like to hear that too.
TIA!
Edit: I should say this is my own instrument, not a customer. It's a 20 year old Bruko soprano, solid maple with rosewood bridge/saddle and nut.
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