mummified Necks
- Thread starter Timbuck
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Titchtheclown
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I do pretty much the same thing only I use an old bicycle inner tube cut into strips. Not because they're better or anything I just had an old bicycle inner tube laying around my shed.
hoji
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Noticed you have the frets installed prior to gluing down. The time I've tries this, the fretboard swelled up from the glue and cupped (in the bad direction), presumably due to the frets preventing the top side from expanding as much as the bottom side. And ended up getting gaps.
mmn
Well-known member
The fret boards look like purple heart? I used that for the fret board on a base I built several years ago. Very stable and quite attractive.Nothing technical here, just fretboards clamped on with sugical rubber tubing..I've done it this way for years without any problems.
Moore Bettah Ukuleles
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Dusepo
Well-known member
From the title I thought you were trying 'bog oak'.
DPO
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Me too works a treat.
I use pallet bands. I also use a couple of small brad nails snipped to a sharp point to keep the fretboard locked in place while the glue dries. This method is a lot more effective and efficient than it might seem, and it's easy to do multiple glue-ups at a time. Anyone reading this post should give it a try if they haven't already.
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Timbuck
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Yup! Chuck East Indian Rosewood.....Good to see you back showing interest in Uke building again...Hope you don't struggle getting back into the rhythm of building like I do when I've had a lay off
Michael N.
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Dampen the upper side (prior to gluing) to counteract the cupping.
OP
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Timbuck
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mmn
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Or use non water based glue...Epoxy perhaps
He, or someone else, may need to remove it at some point.
I would recommend Titebond or hide glue. I've always glued the slotted fretboard on first and then the frets, but I've only built guitars. Maybe uke builders do it differently due to the thing being more fragile?
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Timbuck
Well-known member
I said that co's it's what Rick Turner uses on his instruments..
..I myself use Titebond.
Here is an interest thread on the subject, http://www.anzlf.com/viewtopic.php?t=395
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jcalkin
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I used to use 5 minute epoxy to glue on fingerboards, but sometimes I can't work that fast. Now I use 1/2 hour epoxy. No problem getting it back off if necessary. I put a thick caul on top to make sure the neck stays flat until the glue cures.
Or use epoxy.
hoji
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Good idea. I'll give it a try. It's scary pounding those last frets in over the body. And I'm "hide glue only"... due to some mental issue.
This jig keeps everything flat during glue-up. I've had to make all new ones since changing to a radiused fretboard. After I attach a hinged headstock caul, they'll also be used for final neck shaping. That's a sopranino neck, which fits on the soprano jig. I cut the fret slots with a thin kerf finishing blade. The pallet bands are very strong and easy to work with. Lots of clamping pressure. Works great.
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DPO
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I use the same thing, though I am about to splash out on a new tube, the old stips are losing their stretch.
Log Dog
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I just lightly sand both surfaces to be glued with 40 grit sandpaper then spread a thin coat of Elmer's wood glue evenly on both the neck and the fretboard with frets in place and let it sit for a few minutes so the glue soaks into the wood well and begins to thicken. Then I carefully lay a long flat piece of hardwood like walnut as wide as the fretboard and place it on top of the fretboard after placing the fretboard on the neck and then start firmly clamping at the nut and working my way up the neck. This guarantees flat placement and level frets. Then I let it dry for at least one day. I have never had a fretboard buckle or cup and I never had to level the frets after a glue up. Just my 2 cents.... Your mileage may vary. There are many ways to skin a cat and this was mine.
