....what could possibly go wrong?

Swamp Yankee

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One of my older ukes has a bulging belly and I've taken the saddle down as low as it can go. It plays fine, but I noticed that when I knot the strings over the bridge, the looped portion of the knot pulls the string up and thereby changes the angle that the string breaks over the saddle to the point that it's pretty minimal.

To counter this, I've taken to putting a stopper knot on the string ends and slipping a 6mm glass bead onto the string then feeding the string into the hole in the bridge.

This allows me to forgo the knot-over-the-bridge approach and greatly improves the break angle as the string goes over the saddle.... and it's kinda cool looking, imho.... but can anyone come up with any reasons why this might not be a good idea? Not a big deal... but I'm bored, so...I thought I'd ask the experts.
 
Here's a pic from the tablet...gives a general idea

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so... I'm re-inventing the wheel ;)

I'm looking for beads with letters on them so I can name the strings for my wife... since she's always asking me.

The only problem so far was using wooden beads on the G and A strings. I came home one day and found the strings had split through the beads. That's why those two strings are now fitted with glass beads. The C and E strings will be, as well, once I put new strings on.
 
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so... I'm re-inventing the wheel ;)

I'm looking for beads with letters on them so I can name the strings for my wife... since she's always asking me.

The only problem so far was using wooden beads on the G and A strings. I came home one day and found the strings had split through the beads. That's why those two strings are now fitted with glass beads. The C and E strings will be, as well, once I put new strings on.

Michaels http://www.michaels.com/crafting-beads/alphabet-beads/809188199 (I have been using the 5mm ones)
 
You could also take it a step further by drilling holes to make it a "string through bridge" this will maximize the break angle & also create a stronger connection to the top :D
 

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Since my obsession with testing hundreds of different string sets started like 3 yrs ago, and wanting to be able to re-use/re-install the strings on other ukes, I've almost exclusively knotted all the strings and fed them thru beads, regardless if it is a tie-bridge.

If I am using a uke with a slotted bridge, I just do not use the beads.

I bought maybe 6 different types and sizes of beads, also from Michael's, that came on a string, for like $3-4 per pack of 50 or so beads.

They are a dark, metallic grey color, and look like the semi-precious stone 'Hematite' but I think they are made of glass. I also use them on my classical guitars as well.

I find that not only do they offer a much better break-angle over the saddle as stated by the OP, but the strings also seem to last longer, especially if changed and moved to another instrument before they are worn out.

With a tie-bridge, when you tie the strings on, if you want to re-use them, you really need to cut off the section that was previously tied, since it is usually weakened from the twisting and stress from tension, and will usually break after a while at the bridge if re-installed with the old creases and thinned out areas from the previous installation.

Cutting off this twisted-up section of string, you will lose about 4-5 inches of string length so re-using the strings can be problematic if you did not leave enough extra at the tuner ends. I always have about 6-7 wraps around the tuner post when tuned to pitch, with a tail of about 2" excess no matter what instrument.

Some folks dont like the 'look' but it's worked for me for a very long time now. :)
 
I'm no expert, but maybe have it checked out to find why it is bulging, is there a problem with bracing inside coming loose, or maybe use a lighter gauge of strings (something I had to do on a Tokai). Whilst the work you have carried out no doubt makes it playable I just wonder if things may continue to deteriorate further
 
Since my obsession with testing hundreds of different string sets started like 3 yrs ago, and wanting to be able to re-use/re-install the strings on other ukes, I've almost exclusively knotted all the strings and fed them thru beads, regardless if it is a tie-bridge.

If I am using a uke with a slotted bridge, I just do not use the beads.

I bought maybe 6 different types and sizes of beads, also from Michael's, that came on a string, for like $3-4 per pack of 50 or so beads.

They are a dark, metallic grey color, and look like the semi-precious stone 'Hematite' but I think they are made of glass. I also use them on my classical guitars as well.

I find that not only do they offer a much better break-angle over the saddle as stated by the OP, but the strings also seem to last longer, especially if changed and moved to another instrument before they are worn out.

With a tie-bridge, when you tie the strings on, if you want to re-use them, you really need to cut off the section that was previously tied, since it is usually weakened from the twisting and stress from tension, and will usually break after a while at the bridge if re-installed with the old creases and thinned out areas from the previous installation.

Cutting off this twisted-up section of string, you will lose about 4-5 inches of string length so re-using the strings can be problematic if you did not leave enough extra at the tuner ends. I always have about 6-7 wraps around the tuner post when tuned to pitch, with a tail of about 2" excess no matter what instrument.

Some folks dont like the 'look' but it's worked for me for a very long time now. :)

I've got those "hematite" beads on the G and A strings in the picture. I got mine at A.C Moore Crafts where they were labeled as Czech glass beads but were packed 8 on a string for $1.99. I really do like the look of them the best.

I worried that plastic beads might have sharper edges which might cut nylguts easily, unless they've improved nylguts that is. Back when they first came out, a sharp look would cut them in a split second.
 
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I'm no expert, but maybe have it checked out to find why it is bulging, is there a problem with bracing inside coming loose, or maybe use a lighter gauge of strings (something I had to do on a Tokai). Whilst the work you have carried out no doubt makes it playable I just wonder if things may continue to deteriorate further

It likely will continue to get worse. It's a very lightly built and inexpensive solid mahogany uke that is some 13 years old now. Nevertheless, it has a sweet, loud voice and a screwed on bridge. I don't think there are any loose braces... they're just bending, along with the top. I'm not sure putting a few hundred dollars worth of work into is a worthwhile investment.
 
It likely will continue to get worse. It's a very lightly built and inexpensive solid mahogany uke that is some 13 years old now. Nevertheless, it has a sweet, loud voice and a screwed on bridge. I don't think there are any loose braces... they're just bending, along with the top. I'm not sure putting a few hundred dollars worth of work into is a worthwhile investment.
In that case I would probably bin it and get something else, I wouldnt want to play something that I felt would only deteriorate, but hey, like I said, Im no expert, just as humble uke player, have fun, live long and prosper :)
 
In that case I would probably bin it and get something else, I wouldnt want to play something that I felt would only deteriorate, but hey, like I said, Im no expert, just as humble uke player, have fun, live long and prosper :)

Oh heck no! I'll play it till it's no longer playable then I'll hang it on the wall. It's such a sweet sounding uke and it's given me the best song I've ever made up yet.
 
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