Martin M600 strings

Be careful...the strings are mislabeled/packaged inside of the main package. You’ll want to visually make sure you are putting them on the right places—Martin has been notified, but there has been no attempt to rectify the situation.
 
Be careful...the strings are mislabeled/packaged inside of the main package. You’ll want to visually make sure you are putting them on the right places—Martin has been notified, but there has been no attempt to rectify the situation.

Thx for the heads up, Chris.
Do you mean the strings are mixed up in the package, or ?
 
I can’t remember if all of them are mixed up, or just certain strings—but you cannot trust the labeling on the paper packages inside the sealed package. The list of string sizes on the outside package are correct.
 
I think the C and E strings are swapped in the packaging, If I'm wrong, please correct me.
 
I can’t remember if all of them are mixed up, or just certain strings—but you cannot trust the labeling on the paper packages inside the sealed package. The list of string sizes on the outside package are correct.

My experience has been the same as Choirguy's; the outside packaging has it right. Unfortunate that the folks at Martin had this glitch with the individual envelopes, but nobody's perfect.
 
Wow, these Martin M600 strings' packaging is a confusing mess! Not only don't the measurements on the outside match the envelopes inside, but when I measured the strings to check, the G and A strings were in each others envelopes, and the C and E strings were also in each others envelopes. WTF? Beware! I'm sure they'll sound fine, but what a way to screw up players, especially new ones, who don't know this!

M600 packaging.jpg
 
I am guessing they are packaged 4-3-2-1 as opposed to 1-2-3-4?
 
I made a video of how I change strings with a tie bar bridge a week ago, when I bought a Makala Dolphin that was strung up in a HILAROUS way. I took the time in the video to show how I check the gauges of these M600 strings in the new packs...and guess what? This pack was fine. I had a previous pack, as I mentioned in the thread, that was messed up. Maybe Martin has addressed the issue?

I was more miffed at Guitar Center. The sign said, “$4.99” so I bought them...and they were really $6.99. I needed a set, so I paid it...but from now on, I’m ordering in advance from places like Strings By Mail.

Video is attached below. The Martin interaction starts at 15:00. I could have deleted all this, but decided to leave it in.

 
@ Choirguy. Thanks for the post above and for the video that you included. I watched parts of the video to get the jist of your direction and found it a helpful demonstration of a method that works. I do things slightly differently but your way is quicker and just as (fully) functional.

It’s good that the later packet of strings that you tried was correctly labelled, but also good to make people aware of checking the sizes.

I found that the Martins really do make a difference on Dolphins. Fitting a bone saddle is a very worthwhile change too. IMHO a well set up Dolphin is well worth having: they cost very little, are reasonably durable and play well enough to give years of pleasure. I hope that you enjoy yours.
 
I made a video of how I change strings with a tie bar bridge a week ago, when I bought a Makala Dolphin that was strung up in a HILAROUS way. [/video]

I always love your videos and this too very much. It is only when you in maybe 2:17 say "go under", I think the more common recommended way is "go over". I have done anyways both ways and they both work.
Just saying that your way to "go under" might not be the one that is recommended in classical guitar string changing, even if it feels to me to more also like how I would go instead over ;)

Could be that "going over" saves in wound strings of not needing too many "goings", as there is not so much space in the tie bar bridge.
 
I always love your videos and this too very much. It is only when you in maybe 2:17 say "go under", I think the more common recommended way is "go over". I have done anyways both ways and they both work.
Just saying that your way to "go under" might not be the one that is recommended in classical guitar string changing, even if it feels to me to more also like how I would go instead over ;)

Could be that "going over" saves in wound strings of not needing too many "goings", as there is not so much space in the tie bar bridge.

I know what you are saying...I go under to avoid the string poking me in the wrist. When you go over the tail after under the main string, the end points to the left for me, or at me. I like the tail end to pop out away from me...and it holds. Katie DeNure from one music school did a very nice video with the over approach and I can always try that again...but, as you said, it does hold and I wouldn’t think it would be any longer on the tie bar.

Katie is far more photogenic than I am; I find it interesting that she doesn’t treat her fretboard with a string change. I did buy the Octopus tool from Music Nomad as soon as I saw it; I have been changing tuners and would have loved to have that end tool the last time I tightened the face screw on a Uke.

Katie’s Video:
 
I found that the Martins really do make a difference on Dolphins. Fitting a bone saddle is a very worthwhile change too. IMHO a well set up Dolphin is well worth having: they cost very little, are reasonably durable and play well enough to give years of pleasure. I hope that you enjoy yours.

This one is for my boys. They get to choose their own color when they start ukulele in 5th grade (my 10 year is old is there) but the two instruments they already have access to are not really players-a Mahalo MK-1 butterscotch ($24) and a First Act Mickey Mouse “guitar” (it’s a uke-$20). This Makala Dolphin was $25 on Facebook Marketplace and I couldn’t pass it up.
 
Katie is far more photogenic than I am; I find it interesting that she doesn’t treat her fretboard with a string change. I did buy the Octopus tool from Music Nomad as soon as I saw it; I have been changing tuners and would have loved to have that end tool the last time I tightened the face screw on a Uke.

Yes, I many times listen Katie or Cynthia Lin when I feel somewhat lonely and want a nice voice and a bit of female attraction.
But I'm liking and following your play alongs too same as Cynthia's ;)

https://forum.ukuleleunderground.com/showthread.php?133580-Video-Play-Alongs

EDIT: I also am a bit paranoid now to trust Martin M600 strings and check them with a caliper, the G and A strings. Mine is not an electric, so I need my eye glasses and I think also a magnifying glass to be sure lool. Anyways they are only fluorocarbons I have found locally and I like them over say the Aquila Nylguts that lack the sustain and also too thick in fretboard. I might try someday other Aquila strings, but as it goes, ukulele strings tend to last forever unlike guitar strings.
 
Last edited:
I also go under because it cinches the string sooner and makes it easier to ensure the tails slant downward toward the top.

I like to make all my tails point inward (and down into the fretboard). After you thread the string through the bridge hole and pull it back up to the bridge channel, pass the working end behind the standing end (the rest of the string) in the direction opposite to the one you want the tail to eventually point, then start the windings by passing the working end through the "loop" you just formed—"going under". If, before you tighten, you hold the tail in place with your thumb on the underside of the bridge (where the holes emerge) at just the length you eventually want, you can ensure the tail points as desired and no excess length has to be clipped—an important consideration if you fuse or ball the string ends. What you want is for the string to cross over the bridge edge before it passes under the "upward-going" part of the string for the last time, so that it's cinched on the underside of the bridge, right by the bridge hole, not on the wider flat where all the other winds lie. For wound strings, this final passing is often the only passing, and cinching on the underside is all the more important. Just "pulling tight" is often a bad approach because it's more likely to leave the final cinch on the top of the fretboard.

For what it's worth, concerning the bead approach, knot experts say that a double overhand knot and a figure of eight knot can both pass through the same size hole that a single overhand knot can; better to use an Ashley stopper knot—or, if your knots are holding, then a single overhand knot should probably suffice. I think the single knot looks better than the bulkier knots (especially when using small beads), though with a double overhand knot you may be able to clip off the excess closer to the knot, minimizing any arm- or sleeve-snagging incidents.

The number of winds also depends on the string thickness and the width of the flat part of the bridge in the direction that the strings run, which varies from bridge to bridge. Too few winds and the string can pull loose; too many and the final twist will buckle out, causing the string end to point in the wrong direction.

Apologies for the thread creep.

That is good point, and I think understanding what you say. The trad way to string a classical guitar wound string is though this. It goes over the string first to add winder frictions and then only once under the tie bridge area, but it needs go properly also behind the bridge as a second hold. It really does not matter so much for solid plastic strings though which way it goes, over or under first.

But how I saw Katie (trad way) or maybe our Choirguy also do it, that way does not insure that the string ends are after tightening pointing down to the top after the tie bridge which is really important for an instrument like ukelele. Our tie bridge ukes usually come from the factory so that the ends are all tied together, ends pointing to towards the down strum, but that tieing or they pointing up or down is not really that important except that they point down towards the top after bridge!

I've always followed that advice you gave, even if it is a bit mystical to explain, certainly too longwinded from you. But I do think i understood what you meant, but we need pictures. I myself found a wikihow and it was total bullshit lol. And too lazy and disgusted now to find a better picture. With solid thing strings it is not barely possible to see even.
 
Last edited:
For what it's worth, concerning the bead approach, knot experts say that a double overhand knot and a figure of eight knot can both pass through the same size hole that a single overhand knot can; better to use an Ashley stopper knot—or, if your knots are holding, then a single overhand knot should probably suffice.

Apologies for the thread creep.

It’s a good creep, photos of the tail down process would be nice. As for the Ashley Stopper Knot, I found this:

https://www.animatedknots.com/ashleystopper/index.php
 
Now ubu, you coward whose posts always have to be quoted before they disappear!
Start giving us a photo of the process you described. I have a lots of ill feelings towards you already because of your behaviour I confess, must do so. The first thing as your post when I arrived in this forum you did was to attack me, so dido this!
 
Last edited:
Now ubu, you coward whose posts always have to be quoted before they disappear!
Start giving us a photo of the process you described. I have a lots of ill feelings towards you already because of your behaviour I confess, must do so. The first thing as your post when I arrived in this forum you did was to attack me, so dido this!

Who is “Ubu”? If you have a problem with another member here then please don’t spoil a good thread by being so very aggressive. If you want people to leave their posts up then ask them to nicely and perhaps they might, and if you don’t want the Moderators to freeze your account then be careful what you write too.

I know how it feels to be attacked on here, but I don’t get upset about it and instead I say ‘let the shame of that action be on them’. Attacks on me haven’t happened recently and if one did then I’d be polite but firm in my response, I suggest that you do the same. One other thing you could do is work on your English, without wishing to be rude your English isn’t as good as it needs to be to avoid any possible misunderstandings.
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom