Be careful...the strings are mislabeled/packaged inside of the main package. You’ll want to visually make sure you are putting them on the right places—Martin has been notified, but there has been no attempt to rectify the situation.
I can’t remember if all of them are mixed up, or just certain strings—but you cannot trust the labeling on the paper packages inside the sealed package. The list of string sizes on the outside package are correct.
I made a video of how I change strings with a tie bar bridge a week ago, when I bought a Makala Dolphin that was strung up in a HILAROUS way. [/video]
I always love your videos and this too very much. It is only when you in maybe 2:17 say "go under", I think the more common recommended way is "go over". I have done anyways both ways and they both work.
Just saying that your way to "go under" might not be the one that is recommended in classical guitar string changing, even if it feels to me to more also like how I would go instead over
Could be that "going over" saves in wound strings of not needing too many "goings", as there is not so much space in the tie bar bridge.
I found that the Martins really do make a difference on Dolphins. Fitting a bone saddle is a very worthwhile change too. IMHO a well set up Dolphin is well worth having: they cost very little, are reasonably durable and play well enough to give years of pleasure. I hope that you enjoy yours.
Katie is far more photogenic than I am; I find it interesting that she doesn’t treat her fretboard with a string change. I did buy the Octopus tool from Music Nomad as soon as I saw it; I have been changing tuners and would have loved to have that end tool the last time I tightened the face screw on a Uke.
I also go under because it cinches the string sooner and makes it easier to ensure the tails slant downward toward the top.
I like to make all my tails point inward (and down into the fretboard). After you thread the string through the bridge hole and pull it back up to the bridge channel, pass the working end behind the standing end (the rest of the string) in the direction opposite to the one you want the tail to eventually point, then start the windings by passing the working end through the "loop" you just formed—"going under". If, before you tighten, you hold the tail in place with your thumb on the underside of the bridge (where the holes emerge) at just the length you eventually want, you can ensure the tail points as desired and no excess length has to be clipped—an important consideration if you fuse or ball the string ends. What you want is for the string to cross over the bridge edge before it passes under the "upward-going" part of the string for the last time, so that it's cinched on the underside of the bridge, right by the bridge hole, not on the wider flat where all the other winds lie. For wound strings, this final passing is often the only passing, and cinching on the underside is all the more important. Just "pulling tight" is often a bad approach because it's more likely to leave the final cinch on the top of the fretboard.
For what it's worth, concerning the bead approach, knot experts say that a double overhand knot and a figure of eight knot can both pass through the same size hole that a single overhand knot can; better to use an Ashley stopper knot—or, if your knots are holding, then a single overhand knot should probably suffice. I think the single knot looks better than the bulkier knots (especially when using small beads), though with a double overhand knot you may be able to clip off the excess closer to the knot, minimizing any arm- or sleeve-snagging incidents.
The number of winds also depends on the string thickness and the width of the flat part of the bridge in the direction that the strings run, which varies from bridge to bridge. Too few winds and the string can pull loose; too many and the final twist will buckle out, causing the string end to point in the wrong direction.
Apologies for the thread creep.
For what it's worth, concerning the bead approach, knot experts say that a double overhand knot and a figure of eight knot can both pass through the same size hole that a single overhand knot can; better to use an Ashley stopper knot—or, if your knots are holding, then a single overhand knot should probably suffice.
Apologies for the thread creep.
Now ubu, you coward whose posts always have to be quoted before they disappear!
Start giving us a photo of the process you described. I have a lots of ill feelings towards you already because of your behaviour I confess, must do so. The first thing as your post when I arrived in this forum you did was to attack me, so dido this!