Klos ukulele anyone? Feedback?

Has anyone driven theirs over with a Prius yet? I have a Prius I'm willing to use for the experiment? Besley? :)

Hmmmm.......that's certainly a tempting offer, but I'll pass for now. But a Prius test ought to be part of Barry's evaluation, wouldn't you think? Either that, or using it as a cricket bat.
 
I will say that the people at KLOS are first rate. I had an isolated issue, (from what I understand the only one of its kind they have experienced), that required me to send my ukulele back to KLOS. They provided a shipping tag and fixed the problem and sent it back to me. I got it yesterday, with a new saddle so the action was around 3mm. It seemed pretty loud, but I have experienced a drop in volume in the past when I lowered to action to .090” at the 12th.

Rather than sand down the graphtech saddle they provided I modified a black water buffalo horn saddle that came out of another uke. Typically this is not the best saddle material, but it worked quite well and I ended up with a sweeter and less bright sound. The interesting thing was there was not a lot of volume drop-off. My wife commented on how loud it was. I do tune my KLOS to re-entrant B, so it starts out a little less bright and maybe a little louder than when tuned to C.

I can’t say if the fix or the different saddle material helped, but it is nice to have it back and being played.

John
 
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.....I got it yesterday, with a new saddle so the action was around 3mm. It seemed pretty loud, but I have experienced a drop in volume in the past when I lowered to action to .090” at the 12th.

In the Spring issue of Ukulele magazine Mim commented on this very point, saying that "lowering the action too much can destroy the tone of your ukulele. I have heard a lively uke go dead when someone has insisted on extremely low action." Unfortunately she doesn't say what she considers to be "extremely low". My preferred target is also about 0.090" (~ 2.3 mm), which is where I set my Klos, so perhaps its modest volume is my fault? I can't remember if it was louder when I received it as the very first thing I did was change the strings and adjust the saddle. An action of 3 mm (0.120") is high for me, but certainly a reasonable level to send them out with.

When I first started working on ukes I went researching what people considered "normal" action, and found this comment on the Mya-Moe web site:

http://myamoeukuleles.com/actionPlayability.html

"In the absence of specific information about the musician, we adjust our ukuleles to a medium-low action (about 0.080" at the 12th fret). The #3 string has a slightly higher action allowing for its larger diameter."


I've never seen action as low as 0.080" (2 mm), which they apparently consider only "medium" low, which is part of how I settled on 2.3 mm action as a compromise. But at any rate, I'm sure all of my jamming friends would agree that having the volume on any uke of mine being subdued a bit is probably a good thing.
 
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So, what are the determining factors for the proper action height measurement? Is it strictly personal preference? or is it fret height? or what? The KLOS is one of the few ukes that I can barre anywhere and play as loud as possible without any rattles or unwanted vibrations.

I'll also post this on the general topics forum.
 
Technically volume has nothing to do with the action other than string buzz on the frets if it gets too low. It has everything to do with the break angle over the saddle. There are other real life factors but a simplistic view is the higher the saddle the more downward pressure the strings exert through the saddle and the louder the ukulele sounds. There are build, string size, and playability factors that come into play. I’m sure optimum break angle info can be found online. This is also acoustic volume, there is probably little impact with electrics.

But in the real world, production instruments are built to perform best within a certain string height (break angle) range. This is why the neck angle was modified on later KLOS ukuleles. Somewhere along the line they thought 3mm was where it should be. Obviously they got it wrlong by around .5mm for most people. Keep in mind that saddle height has to be reduced by twice the amount you want at the 12th (midpoint of the scale).

I’ve actually run a uke at less than .080”. It had an 18” scale with higher tension, but it still lost some volume and depth. Just not enough downward string pressure to drive the soundboard.

So today I discovered that my KLOS is now a string through bridge instead on a slotted bridge; even though it still has the string slots (???). I have mixed feelings about it. In one way it is probably an improved method to attach the strings and may be the reason for the improved sound; I always thought a slotted tenor bridge was a poor approach. On the other hand because it wasn’t designed that way I can only hope the carbon fiber is strong enough with this modification; it probably is. But it is a good thing it is not one of my good ukes as it is slowly bordering on becoming a Frankenuke.

John
 
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.....So today I discovered that my KLOS is now a string through bridge instead on a slotted bridge; even though it still has the string slots (???). I have mixed feelings about it. In one way it is probably an improved method to attach the strings and may be the reason for the improved sound; I always thought a slotted tenor bridge was a poor approach. On the other hand because it wasn’t designed that way I can only hope the carbon fiber is strong enough with this modification; it probably is. But it is a good thing it is not one of my good ukes as it is slowly bordering on becoming a Frankenuke.....John

So when your uke was back at the Klos shop, did they modify it by drilling holes through the bridge to attach the strings? If so I wonder if they added a bridge plate on the underside of the top? The carbon fiber is plenty strong, but the top is a sandwich of two sheets of carbon fiber separated by a foam layer, and I would wonder if that sandwich could withstand the point loading of a string knot or bead. Very strange.
 
So when your uke was back at the Klos shop, did they modify it by drilling holes through the bridge to attach the strings? If so I wonder if they added a bridge plate on the underside of the top? The carbon fiber is plenty strong, but the top is a sandwich of two sheets of carbon fiber separated by a foam layer, and I would wonder if that sandwich could withstand the point loading of a string knot or bead. Very strange.

Bridge plate? You’re dreaming. Basically the bridge came off, I sent the uke back to them, and they were supposed to just re-attach it with epoxy. Even after prepping the area clean, I guess they decided to attach a new bridge and also drill through the soundboard, knot the strings, and call it a day. I was unaware of their repair approach. I only discovered it when I was replacing a string. I did pick up some beads.

These guys aren’t luthiers, but I’m hoping they at least know their stuff well enough that doing this type of mod will hold up over time.

John
 
I have to say this is the best this ukulele has ever sounded. I don’t know if it is because the bridge is now more solidly attached, or if it is the through bridge string setup, but it is so much louder than it was before. Even my wife commented that it sounds so much better and louder. I think the buffalo horn saddle improved the tone, but being softer than graphtech, it should not be louder.

The ukulele came back strung with .022, .031, .026, .020. I changed the strings, and added beads, using .024, .031, .026, .022 and tuned to re-entrant B. The .031 is thicker than what I normally use and it really surprised me on how nice it plays and sounds.

John
 
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I will be reviewing one on Got A Ukulele in about 3 weeks time. I think they are about to close the Indigogo and launch their own website to launch the uke proper (as it were).

My review model arrived a week or two ago - it looks promising!
Looking forward to this. They look brilliant I have to say. Hopefully someone in the UK or Europe will look at stocking them.
 
I have to say this is the best this ukulele has ever sounded. I don’t know if it is because the bridge is now more solidly attached, or if it is the through bridge string setup, but it is so much louder than it was before. Even my wife commented that it sounds so much better and louder. I think the buffalo horn saddle improved the tone, but being softer than graphtech, it should not be louder.

The ukulele came back strung with .022, .031, .026, .020. I changed the strings, and added beads, using .024, .031, .026, .022 and tuned to re-entrant B. The .031 is thicker than what I normally use and it really surprised me on how nice it plays and sounds.

John

Very interesting. I like the idea of going right through the soundboard.
 
Very interesting. I like the idea of going right through the soundboard.

I do too, but the downside of just drilling holes is not having a bridge plate. A bridge plate distributed the string tension (pounds per sq in) over the surface area of the soundboard the same way the bridge does where it is attached. The string tension on a tenor ukulele is around 40lbs. I don’t know how that translates to the actual amount of string pull on the soundboard in pound per sq, using just beads.

If the KLOS soundboard is a sandwich with foam between inner and outer carbon fiber sheets, then the risk is not the carbon fiber failing, but the foam compressing. I have no idea what the impact might be. I am hoping the Prius experiment would also test the sandwich soundboard, to some extent, and not just the edges and ukulele sides. For now everything seems to be fine.

John
 
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You can't say "never" in all cases. I was the 26th person in line for the Indiegogo campaign for the deluxe electric acoustic version and it is a great uke. The only caveat is the setup. I had to lower the 2nd fret and mirror polish all the frets. The intonation is spot on, the neck has no warpage, no frets had sharp ends, the strings were Fluorocarbon with the exception of the low G which was wound. I did change out the C string to balance the string set. The Fishman Kula gives me accurate readings for all the strings when tuning. The uke is relatively heavy. Especially compared to my solid mahogany Tiny Tenor. But, the fit and finish of the KLOS is outstanding. I play it more than any of the others. And it is incredible that I can shred on it as well as fingerpick classical. Not a rattle, not a mistune.

This is really interesting. I'm not sure when they changed the neck angle but I'm pretty sure the one I got had the lower action from user feedback - which is good because I still find the action high (for me) & harder to play. I was backed#81 overall including regular and acoustic/electric sales.

However, mine already buzzed with almost any playing. Got quite annoying and made me work my hands crazy hard to try to see if I wanting fretting "hard" enough but breaking my fingers this way really made no difference on the buzz sound. Also, I have a lot of trouble barring anywhere on this uke whereas I don't have any trouble on my other uke. That had me quite down. All in all, I really like it but it's not as easy to play as I anticipated or expected, which is sad. Of course now, I can't play it at all since my bridge also fell off like @70sSanO did. Gonna reach out to Klos tomorrow & see what they can do to help me get this sorted out. Really not cool to have a 4 month of old uke with just a couple of hours of play on it (between us, we've have 9 surgeries in the last year so less time to play then I'd hoped) break like that.

Ugh. :(
 
This is really interesting. I'm not sure when they changed the neck angle but I'm pretty sure the one I got had the lower action from user feedback - which is good because I still find the action high (for me) & harder to play. I was backed#81 overall including regular and acoustic/electric sales.

However, mine already buzzed with almost any playing. Got quite annoying and made me work my hands crazy hard to try to see if I wanting fretting "hard" enough but breaking my fingers this way really made no difference on the buzz sound. Also, I have a lot of trouble barring anywhere on this uke whereas I don't have any trouble on my other uke. That had me quite down. All in all, I really like it but it's not as easy to play as I anticipated or expected, which is sad. Of course now, I can't play it at all since my bridge also fell off like @70sSanO did. Gonna reach out to Klos tomorrow & see what they can do to help me get this sorted out. Really not cool to have a 4 month of old uke with just a couple of hours of play on it (between us, we've have 9 surgeries in the last year so less time to play then I'd hoped) break like that.

Ugh. :(

You know, this is the third KLOS whose bridge has come off that I know of. You, 70sSanO, and a woman on a FaceBook group. Make some noise for sure with KLOS. Tell them straight up they should make it good. Words and reputations = sales and word spreads fast on social media. But, say it in a nice way, of course. Most of their ukes have not had problems. But, three with the same problem is alarming considering the relatively low numbers made so far.
 
This is really interesting. I'm not sure when they changed the neck angle but I'm pretty sure the one I got had the lower action from user feedback - which is good because I still find the action high (for me) & harder to play. I was backed#81 overall including regular and acoustic/electric sales.

However, mine already buzzed with almost any playing. Got quite annoying and made me work my hands crazy hard to try to see if I wanting fretting "hard" enough but breaking my fingers this way really made no difference on the buzz sound. Also, I have a lot of trouble barring anywhere on this uke whereas I don't have any trouble on my other uke. That had me quite down. All in all, I really like it but it's not as easy to play as I anticipated or expected, which is sad. Of course now, I can't play it at all since my bridge also fell off like @70sSanO did. Gonna reach out to Klos tomorrow & see what they can do to help me get this sorted out. Really not cool to have a 4 month of old uke with just a couple of hours of play on it (between us, we've have 9 surgeries in the last year so less time to play then I'd hoped) break like that.

Ugh. :(

You know, this is the third KLOS whose bridge has come off that I know of. You, 70sSanO, and a woman on a FaceBook group. Make some noise for sure with KLOS. Tell them straight up they should make it good. Words and reputations = sales and word spreads fast on social media. But, say it in a nice way, of course. Most of their ukes have not had problems. But, three with the same problem is alarming considering the relatively low numbers made so far.
 
They look cool, but if you're going for a GO ANYWHERE uke, a wood fingerboard and bridge might be questionable. Personally, I went with a Carbon Outdoor Uke. No wood at all. Heck, I can paddle a boat with it. Sounds plenty good enough for the trail. Better than good enough, actually. A little like a resonator in timbre. $499 for a KLOS versus <$200...FOR THE TRAIL? One cannot overlook the steal factor. For the money I'll take 2 Outdoor Ukes in hi and lo. for less $. But WTH we want what we want.
 
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