Pedalboard Reflections

bacchettadavid

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This post will be the first in a series about 'ukulele amplification and effects.

About 1.5 years ago, I set out to explore affected ‘ukulele tone. This journey began innocently enough with the decision to build a pedalboard for my preamp and looping setup but soon veered into obsession as I delved into the darker arts of sea-sickeningly affected ‘ukulele soundscapes. Having now returned to the surface with a newfound appreciation for effects, I feel it’s time I distill the experience I've acquired and share what I’ve learned.

This series will focus on pedalboards and effects pedals in a general application. I will omit such topics as ring modulation, long dirty reverb tails, or chopped up delay repeats and will instead address concerns arising from the more common approach of using effects to thicken or enhance your ukulele’s amplified tone. Throughout this thread, I will share my successes as well as my failures. The thread will be broken up into a handful of parts organized as follows:

PART I - Pedalboard design and construction
PART II - Core effects for amplified acoustic performance; Part II cont'd
PART III - Auxiliary and expressive effects and signal chain considerations; PART III cont'd
PART IV - Power supplies and pedalboard layout; PART IV cont'd; Part IV cont'd
PART V - 'Ukulele esoterica

I owe an enormous debt of gratitude to the many UUers who freely share their knowledge of ‘ukulele amplification and effects, without whom this entire experiment might never have taken place. I would especially like to thank the following UUers for so generously sharing their knowledge: Booli, Braga2966, Hippie Guy, hollisdwyer, iamesperambient, Jim Hanks, kissing, kohanmike, photoshooter, and ricdoug.

May many UUers find this thread inspirational. Part I will go up shortly.
 
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Watching the thread with interest. I don’t use a pedalboard but the principles and techniques should apply to virtual signal chains as well which is what I use on iOS and Windows. Have a rough idea of what I’m doing but mostly I throw boxes in the chain and twist knobs until I’m reasonably happy.
 
PART I - Pedalboard Design and Construction

To get this thread kicked off, a picture of my board in a layout relevant to this thread:
Pedalboard_UUPost.jpg

Let me begin by stating that the design of this board contains several significant flaws, which I will explore later in this section. For now, enjoy a very brief introduction to pedalboards.

INTRODUCTION

One of the problems with stringing effects pedals together is all the accoutrements they bring with them: the pedals, patch cables, and power cables and power supplies all make for quite a bit of clutter, and constantly unplugging and moving around your equipment leads to undue wear. The predominant method for organizing and protecting a chain of effects pedals is to use a pedalboard. In its simplest form, a pedalboard is simply a platform on which pedals are placed in an already-connected fashion for protection and convenience.

Pedalboards are certainly one of the blander topics covered here, but they are an essential component of an effects chain. In addition to the obvious benefits in convenience and protection, they also serve as a stable substrate for the interface between the player and the effects chain itself. Unfortunately, the basal nature of a pedalboard within an effects chain often means that the board itself has the potential to become the limiting factor in later pedal-related decisions. In theory, you could build a pedalboard that stores all of your effects all the time, but there are reasons this is not desirable (weight, size, noise, and signal loss being major concerns). When designing or selecting a pedalboard, the player should endeavor to anticipate the following needs:
  • Size – bigger is not always better when it comes to pedalboards, but leave a bit of room to expand early on (when the player’s away, the pedals will play)
  • Ergonomics – your legs are only so long, your ankles so flexible, and your toes dexterous. Enough said
  • Mounting options – the more flexible your mounting system is, the better off you are. Don’t forget to account for a power supply (more on them later)
  • Cable routing – you don’t want a rat’s nest of patch and power cables on your board; troubleshooting faulty connections is made simpler by well-organized cables
  • Special considerations – do you really like an especially large pedal with wonky power requirements? Make sure to account for it early on
MY BOARD

In my board's case, the design process consisted of laying mock-ups of pedals on a piece of plywood resting on some books. These tests gave me a rough idea of things like overall dimensions, tilt angle, etc., and from these tests I designed a pedalboard that met the following criteria:
  • total cost under $90 USD (including the Dual Lock tape)
  • small enough to fit between my stool and music and microphone stands
  • large enough to accommodate between 12 and 15 Boss-style pedals
  • flexible mounting options allowing for the placement of pedals in either portrait or landscape orientations
  • shallow tilt angle
  • sufficient room underneath the board to mount a power supply
The board itself is constructed of 1" x 2" (20 mm x 45 mm) pieces of red oak "scrap" from the local lumber yard and measures roughly 22" x 13.5" (560 mm x 350 mm). The top surface of the board contains 5 rails for mounting pedals and is tilted toward the player at an angle of 13 degrees, yielding approximately 2" (50 mm) of relative elevation on the side opposite the player. Extending under the board towards the rear are a pair of supports connected by a 6th rail. A handle has been affixed to the 6th rail, theoretically allowing for the board to be carried without the need for a case. A pair of rubber sliders are mounted to the underside of the 6th rail to keep the board from sliding around. 3M dual lock has been affixed to all rails (including the player-facing side of the aforementioned 6th rail).

This pedalboard design met each of my criteria, but a year of constant use has taught me that the rail-based design is deeply flawed. The major flaws in the design are as follows:
  • inferior mounting options compared to large flat platforms
  • cable routing is unnecessarily complicated due to the rails and placement of the power supply underneath the board
  • space underneath the board is barely sufficient for my chosen power supply; I was fortunate that I did not have to cut out a part of the board to mount a power supply
  • the centrally located handle on the rear of the board is not sufficient to bear the weight of the complete board, and the board's center of gravity causes it to be very unbalanced when held in this manner; handles located vertically on either side of the board would be far superior
  • 3M Dual Lock is too strong for general use, requiring tools for safe dismounting of pedals; industrial velcro would suffice
I am currently designing a Mk. II version of the board. The redesign abandons the rails design in favor of a flat platform (probably lined with industrial velcro or perhaps even regular carpet with small patches of velcro). I have also eliminated the tilt (except for under the volume pedal...will probably include a tilted mounting block for the volume pedal) and will instead incorporate a second level above the rear row on the main platform. The power supply and always-on pedals can then be placed underneath the second level without sacrificing space while also allowing for cleaner cable lines and better access when troubleshooting connections.
 
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I have a few pedals that I use, but I've not made a board for them. I would like to get more organized. I just use one or two at any given time, depending on the situation and I just put them on the ground. That limits me. Will you be doing anything later on about how you are using them in different venues? I ask because I find that some effects work well in some venues, say a small space like a coffee shop, while others seem to work better in larger venues or outdoors. Some seem to work in both. So I am interested in your experiences. Do you take the whole board with you and then just use what you need? That is why I have yet to expand and put them on a board, because I sometimes use different setup depending on the venue. I am interested in what you are doing. I have no idea what I'm doing, I'm still trying to sort it out.Thanks.
 
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David, bravo for taking on this exercise. I believe that it will be immensely valuable to all those afflicted with PAS or have plans to soon be afflicted by PAS. To have the benefit of your experience in one place will be great.
 
I am keenly intereted in this topic as well. I have not yet bought my first pedal, but I have been thinking about a few. This thread is a timely one for me.
 
I am new to all of this. I have some effects through my small Boss amp. But want to know more. Geat topic.
 
Part I is finished.

Watching the thread with interest. I don’t use a pedalboard but the principles and techniques should apply to virtual signal chains as well which is what I use on iOS and Windows. Have a rough idea of what I’m doing but mostly I throw boxes in the chain and twist knobs until I’m reasonably happy.

Jim, I hope this thread will elucidate some of the finer points of effects and the 'ukulele. Your own posts featuring you on the konablaster are part of what spurred me into affected 'ukulele in the first place place (although I went the more "traditional" route).

I have a few pedals that I use, but I've not made a board for them. . . I just use one or two at any given time, depending on the situation . . . Will you be doing anything later on about how you are using them in different venues? . . . Do you take the whole board with you and then just use what you need? That is why I have yet to expand and put them on a board, because I sometimes use different setup depending on the venue.

Rllink, yes, I take the whole board with me. I actually switch between a few different pedal configurations (I'll elaborate on that in Parts III and V) depending on venue and musical genre, but most of the time, the pedalboard is in a similar configuration to what I posted in Part I. Like you, I generally use a few pedals at a time, but I certainly go through more than just one or two combinations during a given show.

Also like you, I started out with just a couple of effects pedals: preamp, tuner, and looper and footswitch controller. At first, I placed them on a piece of upholstered plywood for easy transport and didn't bother with a full-blown pedalboard until I added reverb and delay pedals. For what you're doing now, it's hard to say if a pedalboard is necessary. I will say that my life became much easier once I quit juggling 4 pedals, 3 additional power supplies, and 3 loose patch cables during every setup and takedown.

David, bravo for taking on this exercise. I believe that it will be immensely valuable to all those afflicted with PAS or have plans to soon be afflicted by PAS. To have the benefit of your experience in one place will be great.

Hollis, THANK YOU for everything you've shared as well although I'm not sure anyone PLANS to be afflicted with PAS (least of all me). I maintain that my pedals reproduce whenever I'm not looking.

Well, that's it for now. I'll post the rough draft of "Part II - Core effects for amplified acoustic performance" in the next 2 or 3 days.
 
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Looking forward to more posts about this kind of stuff! I use pedals when I plug in and my biggest issue is noise. A lot of cheap power supplies like daisy chains are supposed to accommodate up to 5 pedals but the manufacturer doesn’t usuallly tell you that it’ll sound like hornets. Let us know (when you get there!) what kind of power supply you use!
 
Looking forward to more posts about this kind of stuff! I use pedals when I plug in and my biggest issue is noise. A lot of cheap power supplies like daisy chains are supposed to accommodate up to 5 pedals but the manufacturer doesn’t usuallly tell you that it’ll sound like hornets. Let us know (when you get there!) what kind of power supply you use!

Best and most boring money you'll spend is on a "real" power supply. I forked out for a Strymon a while back and it's shocking how much quieter everything is.
 
I have a Pedaltrain-mini pedalboard. It's a start but I could certainly use some fresh ideas. What a great topic! Thanks for taking it on.
 
I have a Pedaltrain-mini pedalboard. It's a start but I could certainly use some fresh ideas. What a great topic! Thanks for taking it on.

My small board is the pedaltrain nova+, one size down from yours (18”X5”). It is battery powered. It’s in its fourth iteration. Here’s a quick snapshot.

IMG_1765.jpg

These are the pedals that are on the board pictured above:
TC Electronic Polytune2 Noir
LR Baggs Session pre-amp & DI
Electro-harmonix Nano POG Octaver
Keeley Caverns Reverb & Delay
Keeley Super Phat Mod Overdrive
Keeley Red Dirt Mini Overdrive (soon to disappear and be replaced by my TC Electronic Ditti looper)
All of the above are powered by a Rockboard Power LT XL rechargeable battery pack which is mounted under the board (Note to allow this to fit I had to glue on taller rubber feet that I got from a hardware store. I can get at least 6-8 hours out of this before having to recharge).
 
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PART II - Core effects for amplified acoustic performance

INTRODUCTION

When applied sparingly, effects in acoustic-electric performances can be used to subtly reshape the sound of an instrument or to thicken the tone of the pickups.

Part II of this series focuses on the effects most frequently found in an electroacoustic setting. These effects collectively serve as the backbone of an amplified acoustic tonal palette, with many becoming increasingly useful as a signal chain expands to include more intrusive effects. If you use an acoustic multi-effects pedal, every effect it provides is most likely covered here.

Part II is long, but bear with me; I promise not to waste your time. Part II is broken up into two sections: essential core effects and non-essential core effects.

SECTION A: ESSENTIALS - PREAMPS, EQUALIZATION, TUNERS, MUTE & BOOST SWITCHES, AND REVERB

Special note: Although I am considering each effect separately in this post, many items in the section are often combined into a single unit (preamp/DI box, acoustic amplifer, or PA system mixer).

A.1: Preamps

I'll begin by addressing the elephant in the room: preamps. In short, just get it over with and buy a decent preamp. You'll thank me later when you start dabbling in other effects; even active ukulele pickups often don't generate enough signal for many effects pedals to work correctly, but the outputs and effects loop sends on preamps do. If your instrument is equipped with a passive pickup and you intend to use effects, you need a preamp/DI box. For a thorough explanation of why you should invest in a preamp for your passive pickups and how to choose the right preamp for your needs, see UUer Booli's website: http://bd.entropyadept.com/faq.html.

Even if you use an active pickup, a preamp/DI box might be a wise investment. Many preamps and DI boxes provide myriad benefits to the effects-savvy 'ukulelist, including but not limited to:
  • EQ controls for tone shaping
  • Anti-feedback features like high-pass filters. notch filters (high-Q, narrow-band EQ cuts; see A.2: Equalizers) and phase reversal switches
  • Noise control features like a mute. boost. and ground lift switches
  • Effects loop for keeping your other pedals out of your signal chain when not in use
  • Balanced XLR outputs for longer cable runs to a mixer or PA system
And that summarizes preamps: not exciting or glamorous, but imminently practical. That brings us to our next boring-but-oh-so-useful "effect"....

A.2: Equalization (EQ)

A feature common to many acoustic amplifiers and PA systems, EQ is not always located on the pedalboard itself. EQ allows the player to boost or cut different bandwidths (called bands) of the frequency spectrum to modify the timbre of the output signal. A dedicated equalizer is generally broken up into several roughly discrete bands, each with the following properties:
  • Gain - the degree of cut or boost applied
  • Center - the median frequency value in the band
  • Quality factor (Q) - a ratio of the frequency to the bandwidth. A high Q means a sharper peak or valley will form within the response curve of the band whereas a low Q means the cut or boost in gain will be dispersed over a broader part of the band
Technically, most pedals can be thought of as EQ pedals, but I will limit this discussion to dedicated EQ pedals. Three types of dedicated EQ pedals are commonly available:
  • Graphic - visually represents frequency response settings with a set of vertical sliders. Easy to use and affordable, but often voiced specifically for electric guitar
  • Parametric - flexible, with highly editable bands and robust anti-feedback features. Present a steep learning curve and can be expensive
  • Semiparametric - combines a 2- or 3-band EQ with a parametric mid-band. An effective compromise between the complexity of a fully parametric EQ and the ease-of-use of a graphic EQ
Many semiparametric and parametric EQs include anti-feedback features like phase reversal switches and notch filters.

A.3: Tuners

Put a tuner on your pedalboard; your audience demands it.

Tuners come in four main forms:
  • Stroboscopic - compares an input signal to an internally generated pitch. Latches on almost immediately. Can be extremely accurate but expensive
  • Microprocessor - processes a few cycles of a tone before latching on. Noticeably slower and slightly less accurate, but more affordable
  • Otic organs (left or right) - extremely fast once trained, but prone to fatigue and is rendered dysfunctional by background noise
Many tuners come with additional features. Common features of tuners include:
  • backlit needle or LCD or LED display
  • buffered output, sometimes true bypass with a switch
  • polyphonic tuning
  • display brightness controls
  • mute switch that turns off the output when the tuner is activated
  • power jack out for powering another pedal when not in use
  • Ménière's disease, vertigo, and tinnitus
One special factor to consider is the brightness of the readout display. Some are blindingly bright in the bedroom while other are too dim to use in direct sunlight.

With a bit of practice, you can learn to watch a pedal tuner's readout in your peripheral vision and pretend you are the master sommelier of intonation or a demigod born from the loins of Apollo and Euterpe.

A.4: Mute Switch

Does what you'd expect: turns the signal off when activated. This is surprisingly valuable when trying to control feedback or limit instrument handling noise.

Please note that many tuners and DI boxes feature a mute switch. If you don't already have a mute switch in your chain, you should consider adding one. They're listed here in the Essentials section for a reason (just make sure you find a quiet one unless you want to hear a pop every time you unmute).

A.5: Clean Boost Switch

Raises signal level. A boost switch can help your solos cut through the mix or give you a second gain stage to adjust to changes in audience size. Alternatively, you can use a clean boost to drive an overdrive pedal into a greater amount of distortion. Note that a "clean" boost will raise gain and almost always color your sound a bit. As before, boost switches are common on preamps and DI boxes.

Special note: preferences regarding boost are varied, and many alternatives to accomplish this effect exist. Some options include:
  • Graphic equalizer - very clean option. cut the bass and highs, boost the other bands a bit, and you'll cut through the mix very effectively. Very unobtrusive
  • Volume pedal - set your level at the amplifier for soloing, then back off the volume pedal until you're ready for a boost. This can prove especially helpful if you use dirt in your rhythm tone
  • Overdrive/distortion/fuzz - set the level high to boost your signal and introduce a bit of grit and compression. A very popular method
  • Compressor - set the compression/sustain low and the level high. This will sometimes limit your maximum volume but will minimize distortion while also adding a bit of your compressor's EQ

Second special note: a clean boost expects a high-impedance signal and generally won't work as intended if you plug a passive pickup straight into one. For this application of a clean boost, you will most likely need a preamp.

A.6: Reverb

In many cases, you can rely on the PA system or acoustic amplifier for a touch of reverb, but you can also put highly editable, dedicated digital reverbs at your feet.

Most reverb pedals feature several different algorithms for generating different types of reverb (usually based on analog analogues like plate reverb or spring reverb), with each algorithm category having its own unique flavor. Common algorithms include:
  • Room - decay starts out simple but becomes complex. Especially useful for subtler touches or livening up an acoustically lackluster space
  • Hall - nice wash of reverb with long tails; useful for soaring melodies or ambient harmonies
  • Spring - classic electric and archtop guitar or organ reverb type. Extremely flexible and an evergreen option
  • Plate - similar but not identical to room reverb, with greater complexity and more evenness across the decay
Many reverb pedals supplement these algorithms with additional features. Examples include:
  • shimmer - pitch-shifted (generally augmented) decay tails
  • predelay - varies the time between the attack and first reflection of the decay
 
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A lot of cheap power supplies like daisy chains are supposed to accommodate up to 5 pedals but the manufacturer doesn’t usuallly tell you that it’ll sound like hornets.

Haole, mind if I ask what pedals you are trying to power? I might be able to recommend a quick fix that will bring the noise down to a usable level.

In the meantime, I second Brad's sentiment that a good power supply is some of the best money you'll sink into a pedalboard and ask that you stay tuned for Part IV when I get into the nitty-gritty of power supply selection.

Let us know (when you get there!) what kind of power supply you use!

My ambition for this thread is not so much to recommend specific products as to provide a convenient place for ukulelists to become informed about the world of effects. Before I posted Part I, I actually thought about censoring all the pedals on my board specifically to obfuscate what I was using. I am still reevaluating that position, but I wouldn't hold my breath if I were you.

Power supplies are especially difficult to recommend. I will examine the subject in detail in Part IV, but a power supply should be chosen with respect to the particular configuration of jack, voltage, amperage, and polarity requirements of all the pedals on your board (in addition to other considerations). I will say that my power needs are extremely specific, that my power supply is pink, and that I might find myself on thin ice with the moderators were I to post a picture of my board's undercarriage.

My small board is the pedaltrain nova+ . . . It is battery powered. It’s in its fourth iteration. Here’s a quick snapshot.

View attachment 112658

Hollis, I love your placement of the reverb and delay before the stacked overdrives. You might be getting pretty deep into fizz and feedback territory there, but I bet that sounds wicked! I can see why you're switching out the second overdrive for a looper, but I'll be sad to see it go.
 
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David,

Good job distilling a lot of technical data into an easily readable guide. A real service to the uke community! We'll stay tuned.
 
I have a Pedaltrain-mini pedalboard. It's a start but I could certainly use some fresh ideas. What a great topic! Thanks for taking it on.

My pleaure, Etude - I'm getting at least as much out of posting this thread as anyone else is reading it. What pedals do you currently have? I might be able to give you some ideas for experimentation while you wait for the later parts that will be more closely aligned with your own needs.
 
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