VIDEO- Rubner tuners review and tips for installing

Beau Hannam Ukuleles

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Rubner tuners review and tips for installing

 
Nice to see the the middle hole is now in the middle Beau..The early ones didn't look quite right did they.:)
 
Nice to see the the middle hole is now in the middle Beau..The early ones didn't look quite right did they.:)

Yep- the early rubner tuners had the middle hole, well, not in the middle :) AND the posts were 33mm apart instead of the industry standard of 35mm. They changed that really quick and they are all 35mm now.
 
Noooooooooooooooooooo!!!!! If you file the 'tabs' off the bracket will eventually work lose. You must finish the job by peining the tab with a centre punch. This has happened to me with two sets of tuners failing....
 
I was wondering about that as I watched the video. It looks like a rivet style connection so filing off the end of the rivet could weaken the joint. I have never used these tuners but I would think about just making a relief in the side of the headstock with a burr to accommodate the protrusion.
 
If I was in charge of assembling these tuners at the factory..I would be looking for another way of fixing these lugs so that the joints were flush..Maybe a countersunk rivet method involving a slightly thicker side plate..Or even silver soldered and flushed...or spot welding could work...or maybe a custom made thin black plastic gasket fitted under the plate would do the job and look nice as well... But I'm retired now so it's not my problem :eek:ld:
 
I'm no metal worker, but filing off the excess seems to not damage the strength.- we shall see.

I used to cut into the finish /wood to make room for the Rubner lugs, but not anymore.

By "peining the tab with a centre punch"- you mean flaring out the lug a bit?

These Schaller lugs look like a good idea. Screen Shot 2018-10-19 at 8.45.09 AM.jpg
 
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I've had ukes back witj these brackets hanging off. Beau - listen to me! Dont do this. You are destroying a mwchanical joint. If you do this the fix is to hard centre punch the lug to ensure it is spreading into the mortice...
 
If I was in charge of assembling these tuners at the factory..I would be looking for another way of fixing these lugs so that the joints were flush..Maybe a countersunk rivet method involving a slightly thicker side plate..Or even silver soldered and flushed...or spot welding could work...or maybe a custom made thin black plastic gasket fitted under the plate would do the job and look nice as well... But I'm retired now so it's not my problem :eek:ld:

I like the gasket idea cuz there’s no damage to the wood or the tuners. Fixing the tuners probably voids any warranty.
 
I used to cut into the finish /wood to make room for the Rubner lugs, but not anymore.

View attachment 112872

Hi Beau,

The last time I saw you, you were toiling at the bench at Botany. I was one of those annoying old f*rts who kept Gerard from his work by discussing (picking his brain on) building technique. One memorable chat was on the vagaries of carbon fibre bracing. GG really knows his stuff and imparts it generously.

When faced with the problem of stamped lugs on ganged tuners, I used a dental burr in a Dremel-type tool to tailor a small depression into the head wood.

After coating the lug face with a slow drying marker pen, I pressed the tuners into place with sufficient pressure to mark their location on the head (this only works at the bare wood stage). It was then a quick and simple procedure to do a few shallow scoops on the pen marks. If it is done with a moderate amount of care, within the outline of the tuner base plate, it is very neat, quick and effective. It looks professional and if sanded before finishing, is hardly noticeable. It also nullifies the argument for the weakening of the lug joint.

A friend used a punch, the head of which he ground and polished to look like the top of a miniature bread loaf.
He used it after lacquering and more often than not, it cracked the finish... this played havoc with my OCD. I found it easier to use the burr than to make the punch tool.
 
Hi Beau,

The last time I saw you, you were toiling at the bench at Botany. I was one of those annoying old f*rts who kept Gerard from his work by discussing (picking his brain on) building technique. One memorable chat was on the vagaries of carbon fibre bracing. GG really knows his stuff and imparts it generously.
.

Nice!-
I'd need to see a pic of your face for any hope of remembering you as I taught a lot of students and dealt with many customer at Botany.

Since making this video, i've seen a failed lug (which was not filed down) on Rubner.- that scares me a bit in using them anymore which is a shame as they are nice.

I do the same thing with pressure to mark the lug location- i do it after finishing though- the lug is RIGHT next to the base plate edge which is another tick in the "THESE SUCK" column :)
All the best
 
I'd need to see a pic of your face for any hope of remembering you as I taught a lot of students and dealt with many customer at Botany.

Beau,
I'll spare the UU readers from an ugly mug shot.
I've visited Botany on four occasions over quite a few years, but unfortunately not as a customer or student. I can recall your presence on two occasions, once when you had a student group, and once when doing inlays on a stunning Tiger Myrtle 000, being built for my younger son.
My boys are guitar 'nuts' and have multiple examples of your gifted building and decorative skills.
It is morale depleting to notice that my efforts get played, at best, infrequently. (The clue here is what is/isn't out on the stands when I visit).
But, where I have cashed in on their passions, is that I have spent a few fascinating hours with both Gerard and Trevor … and to a hobby builder, that is not only a privilege, but a huge boon to the knowledge bank .... now, if only I could apply it all to my skill set.

Back on topic:
I have never deemed my builds as deserving of Rubners, but all the brands that I have used suffer the same lug related problems. The lug stampings on some are even more pronounced than the Rubners, so my solution never went past digging a shallow grave and burying them (in the head stock, not in the back yard).
 
Beau,
I'll spare the UU readers from an ugly mug shot.
I've visited Botany on four occasions over quite a few years, but unfortunately not as a customer or student. I can recall your presence on two occasions, once when you had a student group, and once when doing inlays on a stunning Tiger Myrtle 000, being built for my younger son.
.

Nice!- post a pic of the tiger myrtle 000 here!- i've love to see it again.
 
Sheesh … dual bearing/bushings ... these should outlast several instrument lifetimes. (Scheller)

https://www.gitarrenmechaniken.com/...s-sleeves/[/url Go to the 'Other Tuners Tab.
 
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Nice!- post a pic of the tiger myrtle 000 here!- i've love to see it again.

Hi Beau,
I tracked down the Tassie Myrtle OOO and took a few snapshots in less than helpful lighting conditions. They should be good enough to help you remember the instrument.
The owner ran through a magical Michael Fix original as a 'sound check'... it sounds as good as it looks.
I will do a future post on a Western Australian Sheoak OOO that you may also remember.P1010367.jpg
P1010364.jpg
 
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