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Thread: Proper preparation for finishing

  1. #1
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    Default Proper preparation for finishing

    Happy to show pics of the last hurdle -binding top and back!

    I've heard that sanding is not best as you have wood pores clogged with sawdust. Better to use a scraper. But then I read that softwoods don't do well being scraped.

    Greenhorn...
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    "Why is it that you never have time to do it right the first time, but you always have time to do it right the second time??"

  2. #2
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    No problem sanding, in fact pore filling can be achieved by wet sanding with finishes, so it's not necessarily a bad thing. It's true that scraping can give a finer smooth finish, but it's not necessary.

  3. #3
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    Violin makers use a scraped finish and some construct 'sandpaper' from a plant to prep the surface. Scraping to a finish? Never done it and know only a few who have looked at this as an experimental exercise. Sand to 220/240 for sprayed finishes, finer for 'Tru-oil' style finishes. Try shellac at your peril. You will fuss and fuss with this deceptively 'easy' finish that is anything but, despite what you might read here and in other places.
    Last edited by Pete Howlett; 10-28-2018 at 11:26 AM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Howlett View Post
    Violin makers use a scraped finish and some construct 'sandpaper' from a plant to prep the surface. Scraping to a finish? Never done it and know only a fe who have looked at this as an experimental exercise. Sand to 220/240 for sprayed finishes, finer for 'Try-oil' style finishes.
    Yeah, Pete, that leads into the whole question of what I will do about finish. The very little I've done tells me that I'd be wise to hire that done. Spraying takes experience plus... I'm considering French polishing at this point. Would 240 do fo that?
    "Why is it that you never have time to do it right the first time, but you always have time to do it right the second time??"

  5. #5
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    When I made my first, a Stewart-MacDonald tenor, I got a recommendation for Timber mate to fill the pores. I don't recall where that recommendation came from, but it worked well. If you decide to use it, try it on scrap wood first.

    https://www.timbermate.com.au/
    Too many ukes, but I can't stop buying!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChuckBarnett View Post
    Yeah, Pete, that leads into the whole question of what I will do about finish. The very little I've done tells me that I'd be wise to hire that done. Spraying takes experience plus... I'm considering French polishing at this point. Would 240 do fo that?
    Remember, you don't have to pore fill. I do a pore fill, but it isn't written in stone that all those pores have to be filled... I sand out to 320 and use a shellac finish wet sanding after each 3 coats. You also don't have to get all obsessive and "French polish" to get a nice finish. Put it on thin and expect +12 coats to get there. Safe, non-toxic and actually kind of fun.

  7. #7
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    From what little I've learned, pore filling is important for high gloss finishes. I don't know anything about finishing beyond polyurethane. I did roller paint my powermatic 65 with an oil whatever it was (enamel? lacquer??). Turned out pretty decent, especially beneath a fine patina of sawdust! Pore filling supports the finish for a better look. What does it do for French polishing?
    "Why is it that you never have time to do it right the first time, but you always have time to do it right the second time??"

  8. #8
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    you dont grain fill soft wood tops

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beau Hannam Ukuleles View Post
    you dont grain fill soft wood tops
    Okay well that's important for me to know. :-) I love simple straightforward answers!

    So quilted Maple sides and back... and French polish. Just start in?
    "Why is it that you never have time to do it right the first time, but you always have time to do it right the second time??"

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beau Hannam Ukuleles View Post
    you dont grain fill soft wood tops
    I do. But thinly and only to make certain any minute gaps that might be present around the bindings and rosette are filled.
    Chuck Moore
    Moore Bettah Ukuleles
    http://www.moorebettahukes.com

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