Bridge options for tenor

My bridges are 4" x 3/4", and about 1/4" (6mm-7mm) thick. (Either African blackwood or ebony)

Saddle slot is 1/8" wide x 5mm deep and tilted back about 6-7 degrees.

The front edge of the saddle slot is about 5mm back from the front edge of the bridge.

String holes are about halfway between back edge of saddle slot and back of bridge.

String holes are drilled straight down, but not all the way through- (this stops glue coming up the holes when you glue the bridge on.) I counter sink the holes and dremel string ramps too (see attached video)

Welcome to the brain of an Aussie living in Merica- i use inches and mm on the same job!!!

 
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Any tips on safely cutting an accurate closed-end, tilted saddle slot? Bridges are small and hard to hold, and I'd rather not stick my finger into a spinning router bit - again.
 
Here is a shot of the LMI plan for a bridge. Note the reference to compensation. I see bridges set at a slight angle and wonder if that is what they drawer intended to communicate -that you drop the low end back (if using the low string verseus high tuned) a hair less than 1/16". Or are you dropping the whole saddle back that amount? Not trying to be perfect here; just want to undearstand and learn.

Gratefully,
 

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I've been through a lot of ukes. I'd rate bridges:
1. string through
2. traditional tie on.
3. pin [but they do look good]
4. slot, which can by necessity be converted to string through, but the looks deteriorate.
 
Thank you. Yes, I have decided to do the string-through style. LMI plan does not show that but I'm getting a picture, thanks to this forum. :)
 
ChuckBarnett said:
Or are you dropping the whole saddle back that amount? Not trying to be perfect here; just want to undearstand and learn.

Gratefully,
Click to expand...

An angled, compensated saddle like that works only if you are stringing up strings for "non reentrant" tuning. A standard set-up for the ukulele is "reentrant"* and a angled saddle will not work. If you string up with a low G (one octave lower than an unwound string thus making the tuning non reentrant), the angled saddle will give you better intonation because it compensate for string diameter. However, the big question is alway by how much and that can get sticky because it depends on the diameter of your strings. It gets complicated but a little research on reentrant vs non reentrant tuning will help. See here:

*https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reentrant_tuning
 
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By "angled saddle", it's not angled like a guitar, but backwards (in a straight line towards the butt) to fix slight torquing problems when the top rotates due to string tension.
 
Thanks for the jig idea, Beau. I'm learning a little bit more every day about this lutherie thing. Not bad for an old fart nearing retirement.
 
ChuckBarnett said:
Okay, I am convinced that is what I want to do. Don't have a plan for one of those. Do I simply work with the dimensions from my LMI plan for the string-in-slot bridge? What about hole sizes and angles? I was gearing up for a 7 degree back tilt on the saddle. Does this change that? --Phew! I can sure wear a thing out!!
Click to expand...
Come on Chuck, you don't need a plan for this, just stretch your strings and figure where to drill the holes. Drill them straight down through the bridge, the soundboard, and the brace underneath. You will never tear your bridge off, a simple knot underneath will suffice, Drill your holes just large enough to pass the strings through, and get that damned thing singing finally. Then bring it up and show me.
 
Here is a practice bridge with saddle in slot at between 6 and 7 degrees back lean. I can get away with strings 1, 2, and 4 going through holes made by a #60 bit. But the 3rd string required a #57. I suppose strings from different makers vary in gauge, etc. I simply got a set of Aquila new Nylgut strings set up for the 4th string being low rather than high.
I did not drill the holes completely through at this point.

I welcome any tips or suggestions. Thank you, once again!
 

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And here is my practice jig. Not sure if I will need to improve on it, given that it takes me a couple 3 years to make an instrument! :) :)
 

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String width at bridge should be whatever the FB is at the 12th fret

Its ok if the string holes in the bridge as a bit bigger. EG- i use the same drill bit for all my holes, which is at least as wide as the C string.
 
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