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Thread: Bridge options for tenor

  1. #1
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    Default Bridge options for tenor

    My LMI plan calls for a bridge that has holes drilled into the back end and slots that guide strings to the saddle. There is a classical style shown as well. I had thought to do a pin bridge but then realized that the sound hole is too small for that (tho I see them on pictures of ukes???)

    I stumbled across a thread that describes problems with the slot style where strings wear through the wood??

    I was all set to do that but now am asking for advice (once again...)

    I wonder if I'll ever get this thing done.
    "Why is it that you never have time to do it right the first time, but you always have time to do it right the second time??"

  2. #2
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    I think this is what you're looking for.. The edges of the tie block have bone strips to keep the strings from biting the wood.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
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    That looks great, Cathouse. Is that is a 6-string classical guitar? I wonder about doing that on a tenor uke -those classical bridges are wider than I would like. Do they need to be that wide or is it just convention?
    "Why is it that you never have time to do it right the first time, but you always have time to do it right the second time??"

  4. #4
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    Here is another style bridge (Jay Lichty) that actually is pretty attractive. How do you restring? There must be a ball or knot or something on the bottom end. Perhaps you push a new string thru from the top and tie something on or tie a knot?

    lichty_bridge.gif
    "Why is it that you never have time to do it right the first time, but you always have time to do it right the second time??"

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChuckBarnett View Post
    That looks great, Cathouse. Is that is a 6-string classical guitar? I wonder about doing that on a tenor uke -those classical bridges are wider than I would like. Do they need to be that wide or is it just convention?
    Chuck that's a picture from the web that I referred to for how to ideas when I built the bridge for my baritone uke.I followed the plan I got from Georgia Luthier and It turned out well for a first attempt.

  6. #6
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    Do yourself a favor and do a string through style bridge, its the least problematic down the road.

  7. #7
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    What Duane said. These are neat and clean, easily strung, easily made, and you know that it will never come off. Also, there is a school of thought that the direct attachment of the strings to the bridge plate contributes to good tone. No flames, please!






    Here's how you do it, from the fabulous Beau Hannam:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ee2JDXnHZY
    Last edited by saltytri; 12-03-2018 at 10:56 AM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChuckBarnett View Post
    Here is another style bridge (Jay Lichty) that actually is pretty attractive. How do you restring? There must be a ball or knot or something on the bottom end. Perhaps you push a new string thru from the top and tie something on or tie a knot?

    lichty_bridge.gif
    As others have said string through the bridge is as simple as it gets. Tie a glass bead on the end and bingo.
    Kind Regards
    Dennis

    dpophotography@yahoo.co.nz
    Southern Cross Instruments
    New Zealand

  9. #9
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    Okay, I am convinced that is what I want to do. Don't have a plan for one of those. Do I simply work with the dimensions from my LMI plan for the string-in-slot bridge? What about hole sizes and angles? I was gearing up for a 7 degree back tilt on the saddle. Does this change that? --Phew! I can sure wear a thing out!!
    "Why is it that you never have time to do it right the first time, but you always have time to do it right the second time??"

  10. #10
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    My tenor bridges are about 3.625" long, .8" wide. Holes are drilled with a #60 (1mm) bit. It's fine to tilt the saddle but that might be more complication than you need, especially for a first build.
    Last edited by saltytri; 12-03-2018 at 02:30 PM.

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