Bridge options for tenor

ChuckBarnett

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My LMI plan calls for a bridge that has holes drilled into the back end and slots that guide strings to the saddle. There is a classical style shown as well. I had thought to do a pin bridge but then realized that the sound hole is too small for that (tho I see them on pictures of ukes???)

I stumbled across a thread that describes problems with the slot style where strings wear through the wood??

I was all set to do that but now am asking for advice (once again...)

I wonder if I'll ever get this thing done.
 
I think this is what you're looking for.. The edges of the tie block have bone strips to keep the strings from biting the wood.

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That looks great, Cathouse. Is that is a 6-string classical guitar? I wonder about doing that on a tenor uke -those classical bridges are wider than I would like. Do they need to be that wide or is it just convention?
 
Here is another style bridge (Jay Lichty) that actually is pretty attractive. How do you restring? There must be a ball or knot or something on the bottom end. Perhaps you push a new string thru from the top and tie something on or tie a knot?

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That looks great, Cathouse. Is that is a 6-string classical guitar? I wonder about doing that on a tenor uke -those classical bridges are wider than I would like. Do they need to be that wide or is it just convention?

Chuck that's a picture from the web that I referred to for how to ideas when I built the bridge for my baritone uke.I followed the plan I got from Georgia Luthier and It turned out well for a first attempt.
 
Do yourself a favor and do a string through style bridge, its the least problematic down the road.
 
What Duane said. These are neat and clean, easily strung, easily made, and you know that it will never come off. Also, there is a school of thought that the direct attachment of the strings to the bridge plate contributes to good tone. No flames, please! :)


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Here's how you do it, from the fabulous Beau Hannam:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ee2JDXnHZY
 
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Here is another style bridge (Jay Lichty) that actually is pretty attractive. How do you restring? There must be a ball or knot or something on the bottom end. Perhaps you push a new string thru from the top and tie something on or tie a knot?

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As others have said string through the bridge is as simple as it gets. Tie a glass bead on the end and bingo.
 
Okay, I am convinced that is what I want to do. Don't have a plan for one of those. Do I simply work with the dimensions from my LMI plan for the string-in-slot bridge? What about hole sizes and angles? I was gearing up for a 7 degree back tilt on the saddle. Does this change that? --Phew! I can sure wear a thing out!!
 
My tenor bridges are about 3.625" long, .8" wide. Holes are drilled with a #60 (1mm) bit. It's fine to tilt the saddle but that might be more complication than you need, especially for a first build.
 
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David, thank you. I see that your saddle slots are open-ended. As I understand it that may create problems if one wanted to install an under saddle pickup. Being new at this, I don't know how that might work.

Thank you for taking the time! :)
 
Not as far as I know. I've installed that type of p/u on my instruments and they worked fine. It's true that pocket slots are in vogue, though.
 
Below is a bridge that SMD offers which I think is attractive. I've bought them and they look and work well. $20 bucks. You do have to drill the holes. Easy alternative to making your own bridges if you just plan on doing a few ukes. (yeah right)

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If you’re doing a string through bridge, be sure you have an adequate bridge patch. Nice thing is the extreme break angles you can implement if you wanted. I moved from string through to a “standard” tie bridge because I saw some of my instruments make it to stages; I’ve been on stage when strings break, and unless you’re BB King, it can be an issue.

And Dave has a good point about the Turner Tilt-back saddle - you need to be aware of where your actual contact point on top of the saddle is specifically in relation to your scale length. The higher the action, the greater the compensation (and vice versa), but that in and of itself is an advantage.
 
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GREAT vid, Aaron! I'm going to start singing the blues whenever I change strings.

Good point about the bridge plate. Mine are carbon fiber so there's not much to worry about. As far as I know, a wood plate is fine if beads are used properly, with the knot tied so that the bead can slide along the string as opposed to tying the bead into the knot. The knot should pull the bead against the plate to maximize contact area.
 
So, I thought I had a 1/8 in by 1/8 inch shank spiral downcut router bit. Turns out it's an engraving bit which means it doesn't go very deep. I would like to find something that's a good 3/8 inch cutting depth. Using it on my Dremel with a
plunge base that I just bought for that purpose. Any ideas?
 
Thank you for the quick reply! I do have a Bosch Colt but the plunge base was two or three times more than a plunge base for the Dremel.
 
That pic of the Pernambuco uke isn't mine- thats David Ingalls.

I also do string through bridges (with a .018" carbon fiber bridge plate and 'gem stone' permanent buttons thingys, [instead of beads]- see video below). Eric devine uses an ebony bridge plate- either work. Also, if you retro fit a piece of ebony or rosewood onto the inside of an already built instrument (i did it yesterday for a guitar repair)




and

 
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Chuck, Lee Valley tools have a 1/8 in dremel bit. Search their site for
product number 86j04.06. I tried to add a direct link but the forum software says its spam.???????
 
Thank you, Beau. I have no plan for this kind of bridge but it lloks like you shoot for about a 45 degree angle up to the saddle. basically on the uke you were stringing up, the holes are about 1/2 way between the back edge of the bridge and the saddle. Is there any advantagle/disadvantage to that angle and placement? and do you drill the holes straight down from the top? Perhaps you pre-drill the bridge?
 
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