Antique Cuban mahogany problems.

Timbuck

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I've started on another batch of Cuban mahogany soprano ukes...having found a successful method of bending the sides without them cracking.. I now find myself struggling with cutting out the sound hole ..The method I use is the hole cutter in the pedestal drill, I have not had problems like this before but this wood is very old brittle and dry and I was getting splintering at the edge of the hole..the rosette channel is ok but the splintering occurs just as the cutter breaks through.
I've finally got the problem solved by cutting from both sides....I now cut the hole almost through then turn the workpiece over and go in again from the back..and it works. PHEW :)
 
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Ken, I use a Dremel and precision router base with home made circle cutting jig. I too route until I'm almost through but then turn it over and run it through the Jet thickness sander until it detaches. I've only made about 8 or 9 instruments, but I've used this method each time and it works a treat. Mike.
 
I'm sure you know this old trick Ken, but using masking tape where you are going to cut works to help prevent chip-out and splintering. Also a couple of coats of shellac around the place the hole is to be cut will help. I would do both. Other things to think about are the sharpness of your cutting blades and the speed at which your pedestal drill is spinning. I use a router with a down-cut bit to do mine and do not get splintering/chip-outs because I don't cut all the way through but cut out the final paper thin wood on the down side with a sharp exacto knife blade.
 
I bought a very expensive 5" square Victorian veranda post - Honduras mahogany - that turned out exactly like your Cuban Ken. Buying old wood is so much like a crap shoot! Better to buy boards. You need any more mahogany I'll get some for you in June? Really nice mild Khaya that is 20 years old, 2' long 5" squares.
 
I bought a very expensive 5" square Victorian veranda post - Honduras mahogany - that turned out exactly like your Cuban Ken. Buying old wood is so much like a crap shoot! Better to buy boards. You need any more mahogany I'll get some for you in June? Really nice mild Khaya that is 20 years old, 2' long 5" squares.
I remember that veranda post Pete..you put a picture of it on here or the other forum..It was painted grey I recollect :) I'm ok for wood at the moment and I'm not building at rate I used to :eek:ld:
 
We've had some success in gluing another piece of junk material to the location of the sound hole and around on the back side. We have used both hide glue and PVC glues...... both will allow release of the scrape junk material with heat. What you got to loose if it doesn't work.
kw
 
I seem to have this problem in hand now but it's a lot of messing about to get it to do what I want..Tho I did crack another side piece this morning :(
 
Ken -I'll be getting the wood anyway. I'll send you some just to test. I am not sure the cuban you have bought is that because I have never had trouble with it. I think there is always a 'risk' when buying old wood. It's why I like sourcing 'old boards' - the stuff I am buying will be 25 years old, cut into billets specifically for the furniture trade. I've had one sample and it is gorgeous.. going to test bending properties when I return fro Canada in May.
 
What do I know about wood and materials in general ? Not a lot and less than I used to - you forget stuff over time which is a bit upsetting ‘cause learning the stuff in the first place was hard work. One thing I do know though is that a craftsman can waste a lot of good time and effort by trying to make stuff out of poor quality and/or inappropriate material.

Giving up on something does go against the grain (‘cause I’m mean and stubborn) but there comes a time when it’s the right thing to do. I think that Pete’s offer is generous and accepting it would be a kindness to both parties: Pete gets to repay some past favours and Tim gets the satisfaction found in working with some good wood - the resultant built Ukes will last and provide their owners with pleasure for decades. Makes a win win situation and helps a friendship grow, what’s not to like about that.

Of course mine’s just the view of an onlooker ........ though I hope to help I shouldn’t really be commenting.
 
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For the side bending, spritz with fabric softener mixed with water...or buy some Super Soft2. Good for brittle woods, i just use it on everything cuz life is to short.
 
Finally got to the end of this nasty to bend mahogany..I had 2 sets of sides left and I bent them this morning, one set cracked and the other set was ok.
I got 10 sopranos out of it in the end, so it wasnt too bad an experience..this is the last one with the end blocks glued in.

IMG_3723.jpg
 
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For the side bending, spritz with fabric softener mixed with water...or buy some Super Soft2. Good for brittle woods, i just use it on everything cuz life is to short.

I was always interested in just what Super Soft 2 exactly is: Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether. Now you know. Sorta like the stuff we put in a car radiator (ethylene glycol). How it works I have no idea.
 
I was always interested in just what Super Soft 2 exactly is: Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether. Now you know. Sorta like the stuff we put in a car radiator (ethylene glycol). How it works I have no idea.

There's probably a cheaper way to buy the stuff, given what it is (I mean in concentrated form, and without the other stuff that is commonly found in fabric softeners). I recently used super soft 2 to flatten some curly maple veneer, and it did work for that.
 
I was always interested in just what Super Soft 2 exactly is: Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether. Now you know. Sorta like the stuff we put in a car radiator (ethylene glycol). How it works I have no idea.
None of this softener stuff worked in his case...I just took a lot of care with the initial bending of the waist on the pipe with a water spray , then onto the Foxy bender to finish off.
 
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