Oh no! It dropped...Crack in the gloss at the binding

Swiftsailor98

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
140
Reaction score
2
Location
Florida, USA
I set my Kala Tenor in its case while changing music books. Unfortunately the case was balanced on the back of the sofa and it fell on the floor (only about a 30 inch drop.

When I picked up the case and uke, I noticed a crack in the gloss finish at the binding right on the edge where my right arm rests. I can feel the binding wood and I can see a slight scalloped crack in the gloss finish on the side.

Any thoughts on a DIY fix to make sure I don't further damage the finish, or start a point where the finish can separate from a larger portion surrounding the crack?

And yes, I have pictures...
KA-SPMT-TRI Crack - 1 (1).jpg
KA-SPMT-TRI Crack - 1 (2).jpg
 
I cracked my Kala cedar exactly the same about 4 years ago and didn't do a thing to fix it. It never expanded or pealed away. If you really want to fix it, I suggest going to a good guitar repair shop/luthier, or to do it yourself, check online for guidance.


This is Michael Kohan in Los Angeles, Beverly West near the Beverly Center
9 tenor cutaway ukes, 5 acoustic bass ukes, 11 solid body bass ukes, 9 mini electric bass guitars (Total: 34)

• Donate to The Ukulele Kids Club, they provide ukuleles to children in hospital music therapy programs. www.theukc.org
• Member The CC Strummers: YouTube: www.youtube.com/user/CCStrummers/video, Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheCCStrummers
 
I'd head over to the StewMac website and see if they have posted any repair videos or tech posts on repairing cracks like that on your 'ukulele. They have some really detailed videos on all kinds of repairs.
 
Thanks for the responses. I think I’m going to go with a DIY option and not too extensive—maybe just using a little glue to sure up the cracked gloss finish. This was a recommendation from Joel at HMS (see below).

If I may, let me quickly depart from the primary subject and praise the HMS customer service.

For background, at the same time I posted this thread, I sent customer service contact emails to Kala and HMS (where I purchased this uke) through their respective website forms.

First, Kala’s web form gives the standard name, email, issue/comment sections. HMS has a similar form, but it adds the ability to attach files/pictures. This is a great added feature, and I think it contributed to the detailed response I received from HMS.

Kala responded first, but their email was a lot less personal and recommended taking it to an ‘authorized dealer’ for potential repair by a trained professional

Joel from HMS came back a day later, but he provided a great response—personal and helpful.

The HMS recommendation is using some Thin Super Glue from StewMac along the cracks to make sure it doesn't get much worse and reduce the amount of finish that chips out. He even provided a some quick how-to instructions.

All said, I will continue to highly recommend HMS as my ‘go-to’ place for buying ukes. Admittedly, I’ve heard Mim from MimsUkes is just as good, but I haven’t had the pleasure of working with her yet.
 
Thanks for the responses. I think I’m going to go with a DIY option and not too extensive—maybe just using a little glue to sure up the cracked gloss finish. This was a recommendation from Joel at HMS (see below).

If I may, let me quickly depart from the primary subject and praise the HMS customer service.

For background, at the same time I posted this thread, I sent customer service contact emails to Kala and HMS (where I purchased this uke) through their respective website forms.

First, Kala’s web form gives the standard name, email, issue/comment sections. HMS has a similar form, but it adds the ability to attach files/pictures. This is a great added feature, and I think it contributed to the detailed response I received from HMS.

Kala responded first, but their email was a lot less personal and recommended taking it to an ‘authorized dealer’ for potential repair by a trained professional

Joel from HMS came back a day later, but he provided a great response—personal and helpful.

The HMS recommendation is using some Thin Super Glue from StewMac along the cracks to make sure it doesn't get much worse and reduce the amount of finish that chips out. He even provided a some quick how-to instructions.

All said, I will continue to highly recommend HMS as my ‘go-to’ place for buying ukes. Admittedly, I’ve heard Mim from MimsUkes is just as good, but I haven’t had the pleasure of working with her yet.

To further derail your thread, I wrote to Kala customer service about 2 weeks ago and it looks like I'll never hear back. I'm surprised they answered you. HMS is a fantastic resource.
 
I agree with Joel's recommendation and it's a fairly simple fix. I'd also suggest using GluBoost Fill 'n Finsish for this repair. Sparingly wick in their thin ca and then hit it with their accelerator. The main difference between their accelerator and everybody else's is that it will not soften the lacquer. The small Micro Mesh pads from Stewart MacDonald are ideal for leveling the finish afterward and bring it back up to a gloss.
 
MBU,
Aloha....so what you wrote is pretty much it on how to fix it? I was running across the room to save a puppy that got stuck (they do the craziest things!) and quickly put my ukulele on the chair, of course it fell off and same thing happened.

Mahalo, Chris
 
I'd just define it as "patina" and leave it alone.
 
Yes super glue may cover it up a bit, but it is not actual damage that requires repair but just a sign of use. All my instruments have way more dings and cracks like that, and most of them had cost ten times or more than a Kala. And I treat my instruments extremely carefully, but time and random incidents out of our control are just part of life.
 
Hey 'Swift' I did a repair on a B-stock Ohana with nearly the same issue. So... from experience... Here's what I did. I bought the thinnest CA glue (StarBond Superfast Thin). Your initial effort is to stabilize the finish/gloss. By using the thin stuff... in a really small quantity ... it will seep/wick into the crack and bind the separated surfaces.

Use a really bright light to identify the part of the crack that seems to be the most open or exposed... this is where you'll be putting the tiniest drop of CA. The CA should wick into the crack. If it goes quickly you may be able to add another drop. As it wicks, add a little more.

When purchased from StarBond they include really small tips that feed drops without squeezing the container. I didn't use that option because I was afraid it would deliver too much. Instead I put a small pool of CA in a metal lid and used an pointed (round) toothpick to pick up small droplets. I didn't expect to completely fill the crack/gap, but was surprised that it actually happened. If you don't get wicking in to whole area, I'd stop, let it dry over night and see if you can add another drop to another cracked area the next day. If not, you've probably gone as far as you should, stabilizing the damage.

There's other tricks on how to remove any excess CA (after completely dry) using a straight edged razor blade. Comment if you'd like me to add that in a later post. I have before and after pictures of my repair if you'd like to see those, too.
 
Hello! One warning in regards to the use of superthin CA glue, try it on something else first to get a feel for the flow! If applied to heavily, it will easily flow out into unwanted areas. That stuff is very mobile and can very quickly get into places you never intended.

It also flashes off in just a few seconds, so watch your fingers. Use of an accelerator (aerosol) will sometimes cause a white "haze" effect that adversely impacts the clarity. If you level sand between coats be sure to remove any white dust from the topography of the area. The white dust sometimes gets sealed in behind the next coat of glue and remains visible, sort of like being "trapped under ice".

Music Nomad makes a great buffing/polish compound that will easily aid in reclaiming the original gloss finish. Use 400, 600, 800, 1500 grit and then hand buff (Music Nomad) with a soft cloth. Kala uses a catalyzed finish (will never return to a liquid state) so you won't be able to get rid of the crack and shatter lines, but you should be able to get a smooth and glossy feel that seals the crack.

Good luck with it!!!!!
 
or use clear nail polish. That's what I used with a couple of dings and scratches and still happy with results.

Eugenio
 
Top Bottom